Mad River Canoe

Canoeing 101

As a lightweight option on our composite hulls, Mad River Canoe offers black powder-coated aluminum gunwales. A low-maintenance alternative to the traditional ash, aluminum gunwales that save approximately 3-5 pounds per canoe.

When ordering replacement gunwales make sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

Canoes are measured straight down the keel line. Gunwales take a bit more circuitous route getting from end to end. One piece Aluminum rails will fit canoes up to 16 ½’. Place orders for replacement gunwales through your authorized Mad River dealer.
You can identify one-piece aluminum gunwales for composite canoes by their rounded top surface and their narrow “throat” (part of gunwale that fits down over the top of the hull). The throat of a gunwale for composite hulls is quite thin, generally less than 1/8” wide.
Aluminum gunwales for Royalex hulls cannot be used on composite hulls or vice versa. They are not interchangeable.

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

Replacement one piece aluminum gunwales are available for Mad River Explorer and Malecite models of composite Mad River Canoes. These gunwales will fit most composite canoes up to 16 ½’ in length. The gunwales are shipped “bent” on a constant curve to facilitate installation. The bend will accommodate just about all symmetrical canoes. For example, the gunwale (with a bit of trimming) will fit a Mad River Winooski which was 14’ long by 40” wide as well as a Malecite at 16’4” by 34”.
If you are replacing same style gunwales your original decks will work with these gunwales. If you are replacing gunwales of other materials or a different style gunwale, it would not be unreasonable to expect to have to replace the decks. The decks that Mad River Canoe stocks for aluminum gunwales are sized to fit our Explorer and Malecite models. They will not fit shorter/wider canoes such as Winooski’s or Mississiquoi’s. Unfortunately, we no longer have molds to fit those older models and it may be necessary to proceed without decks if originals do not fit.
The one-piece aluminum gunwales also require a modified seat truss to work properly. These trusses are available for order via your Mad River Canoe Authorized Dealer.
If you are uncertain of which model canoe you own, provide the serial number as an alternative. Serial numbers are located on the right side of the stern, just below the gunwale. It will either be engraved on a small brass plaque, or stamped directly into the hull. If it is difficult to read, try making a rubbing with a pencil and a small piece of paper. In the event that the model name is unknown and the serial number is completely unreadable, measure your canoe from stem to stem and width at center and we will approximate as best we can.

Unlike wood gunwales, aluminum gunwales require only two rails per canoe.

Aluminum gunwales are a "unibody" one- piece construction that incorporates inwale and outwale into one piece.

Replacement rivets are required for both replacement and new installations.

If you are removing existing gunwales the rivets will be destroyed in the process. The "average" installation requires 70+/- 5/32" diameter Buttonhead aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels with grip range of 3/16" to 1/4". HA/A612D black rivets are available in packages of 80 from Mad River Canoe via your authorized dealer.

Black plastic caps will be needed to cover seat, carry handle, yoke and thwart mounting hardware.

These will range in quantity for 14 to 18, depending on outfitting for your particular boat. Each seat will require 4 caps, each carry handle 2, each thwart 2, each yoke 4. If you are replacing original aluminum rails it is likely that the existing caps can be reused. If you are replacing a different gunwale system, these caps can be ordered from your authorized Mad River Canoe dealer.
Due to their length, aluminum gunwales cannot be shipped via UPS.
The best alternative is to arrange shipment of gunwales to accompany a shipment of boats to your local dealer. If this can be arranged, there is no freight charge for the gunwales.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

2 one-piece aluminum gunwales of sufficient length (for a complete re-rail)
Up to 80 HA/A612D rivets or equivalent (actual number will be determined by length of canoe)
Equivalent: Buttonhead aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels (5/32" diameter); grip range: 3/16" to ¼"; Hole diameter .160 to .164
Rubber caps to fill holes in top of gunwales
Kerfed seat trusses (8) (if replacing wood or vinyl gunwales)

All above parts are available via your local authorized Mad River Canoe dealer.

TOOLS REQUIRED

Variable Speed Reversible Drill
20' Tape Measure
5/32"; 13/64"; 25/64" Drill Bits
Wax or Grease Pencil, or non-permanent marker
Pop Rivet Gun
10 Quick-Grip spring or Bar clamps or 3”+ C-clamps
Rubber Mallet
Prick or Center Punch
Duct tape
Phillips head screwdriver
3/8” Wrench
Hacksaw

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

With rare exceptions, gunwale re-rail starts marking the hull with locations of seats and components followed by removal of components and then of original gunwales. With aluminum gunwales this is accomplished by drilling out the old rivets. This should allow gunwales to be able to be lifted off of hull once decks are removed.

New gunwales are placed over top edge of hull and pushed down into place. Holes are drilled through the flanges on sides of gunwales and through hull. Rivets are inserted and set in holes to secure gunwales. Decks are reinstalled followed by hanging of outfitting such as yoke, thwart, seats, etc.

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Mark location of all seats, thwarts, etc. on inside of hull with grease pencil or washable marker. Once original rails are removed, the proper locations for these fittings will be lost if not noted.
Run tape measure around hull just below existing rails. Mark center point on each side of hull just below rails. These will serve as centering marks for replacement gunwales.
Remove all seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. from canoe. Label and attach all hardware so that it can be reused in original position.
Trace the bottom edge of gunwales on hull. This will give you a good reference point to make sure the new gunwales are fully pressed down on top of hull. Mark existing rivet locations on hull below gunwale with non-permanent marker.
Remove old gunwales by drilling out rivets or unscrewing screws.
- If you are replacing ash gunwales, simply remove all screws in the gunwales and the decks until gunwales and decks lift off canoe cleanly.
- If you are replacing aluminum gunwales, tape existing gunwales in place by applying duct tape in strips from outside of hull, over gunwale, to inside of hull. Position tape so that it does not cover any rivets. Taping the gunwale will keep the gunwale in position as the rivets are removed and prevent the gunwale slipping or springing free and scratching hull or striking someone. Drill out the existing rivets with a 5/32" bit. Drill from the inside of hull, centering drill on head of rivet. You will need to continue all the way through the rail and hull. The rivet should then slip out easily. First drill through the rivets which attach the decks at either end of the canoe, and then drill out the rivets which attach the gunwales.

Once all the screws have been removed or all the rivets have been drilled out, carefully separate the gunwales and decks from the hull and set them aside.
Clean exposed hull surfaces with a good household cleaner. Be careful not to wash away reference lines for gunwales or for seat locations, etc.
Set replacement gunwales on the ground next to your canoe hull. The replacement gunwales should be pre-bent. Align so that the wide part of the gunwale will be on the inside of hull and the narrow part on the outside.
Using tape measure, locate and mark the center point of the replacement gunwales with non-permanent marker. This mark will line up with the center point you have marked on either side of the hull once the rail has been slid onto the hull.
This step is much more easily accomplished if addressed by two people rather than one. Position one rail over side of hull, aligning center marks. Push rail down onto hull, starting at one end and gently sliding rail over top of hull working towards center. It can be challenging to align the top of hull with the throat in the rail. Do not attempt to start at one end and then push/slide rail down hull towards other end. This will scratch and possibly crack hull laminate. As you work your way along hull, tape or clamp gunwale down over top of hull to prevent it from popping off behind you. Do not force the rail down onto the hull laminate and keep a close eye out for any crimping of the hull. You may find it helpful to use a putty knife to align hull and throat and encourage hull to fit into throat of gunwales.
Tamp rail down gently with mallet or palm of hand to fully seat gunwale on hull once completely aligned. Do not pound rail down with force as this can also cause laminate to fracture. Push gunwale down until bottom of gunwale aligns with line traced from original gunwale. Check to be sure center points are aligned. If you need to move the rail backwards or forwards to line up the center marks, gently tap the end of the rail with a rubber mallet until the marks line up.
Clamp rail to hull at approximately ¼, ½, and ¾ of the length of the rail and at each end to secure in position.
Repeat process with second rail on other side of hull. Make sure rail ends are even and are evenly spaced end to end. Secure 2nd gunwale with clamps when in proper position.
Make sure ends of gunwales are fully seated on hull and drill holes through cut end of each rail with 5/32" bit, within ¾" of the each end. Holes should be drilled from the outside of the rail. Place rivets through each hole after each is drilled. Once you have drilled all four go back and secure rivets with rivet gun. Slide rivet gun over rivet stud to point where head of gun is flush with head of rivet. This is most easily accomplished by making sure handles of rivet gun are fully released. Squeeze handles together to snap rivet. It may be necessary to squeeze more than once to get rivet to pop. If one pull doesn't do it, release handles and slide gun forward until head of gun and head of rivet are again in contact and then squeeze handle. Keep rivet gun aligned level with rivet. Do not attempt to "help" the process by bending or "torqueing" the rivet gun. This can result in rivet stud being jammed in rivet gun.
Slide the decks over the gunwales and mark ends of deck with marker on inside of hull. Starting from stern end of each rail (end of canoe with serial number on right side), measure and mark locations of rivet holes on flat flange of inside of rails with grease pencil. The new rivet locations should “split the difference” from the old. Do not use same holes as this can create a loose fit. Rivets should be 6 ½” apart. Measure from mark defining end of deck. If existing hole is at 6 ½”, mark gunwale at 3 ¼” and then space rivets at 6 ½”, marking location along flange extending below gunwale on inside of hull.
Step back and "eyeball" each gunwale to make sure it is "fair" and follows sheer line of hull. Gently tap down any high spots or rises in gunwales and re-clamp as needed.
Drill holes at all marked locations with a 5/32"drill bit. Holes should be drilled from the inside of rail. You may need to use a shorter bit to allow access to hole locations up in ends of canoe. If you still cannot access those locations, leave them undrilled. There are sufficient fasteners used to secure the gunwale. Holes should penetrate inside of rail and hull, but should not protrude through outside of rail. Measuring width of gunwale and wrapping tape at corresponding length on drill bit will help prevent accidentally drilling through the outside of the gunwale.
Place rivets in all drilled holes and secure with rivet gun.
Transfer locations of seats, thwarts, yokes from hull to top of rails. The marks should be located on the inner half of the rail, such that a hole drilled straight down would penetrate the upper and lower Surfaces of the rail without contacting the hull itself. Position the prick/punch on mark and tamp with hammer to indent top of rail. The dent will help stabilize drill position and keep bit from slipping.
Using the 13/64" bit, drill straight down through the rail at all marked locations. This should include holes for the bolt hangers for the carry handles (two holes per each handle); seats (four holes per seat); thwarts (two holes per thwart), if applicable; and yoke (four holes total).
Changing to the 25/64" bit, enlarge all the holes you have just drilled, through the top of the rail only. This will allow the heads of the bolts which the seats, thwarts, and yokes hang from to pass through the top surface but not through the bottom surface. The hole through the bottom of the rail should remain at 13/64". To be sure to drill through top of rail only, wrap some tape around drill bit approximately 1/4" from tip and insert drill bit only until it contacts tape.
Hang seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. from rails, and tighten all hardware. Drop bolts through holes in top surface so that threaded shank extends through hole in bottom surface. Install seat or component and secure with flat washer and locknut. You will not use flanged finish washers with this gunwale system. NOTE: If you are replacing ash or vinyl gunwales, you will need kerfed trusses, (seat hangers) in order to accommodate the lip of the gunwale. Tighten hardware fully.
Insert black plastic caps into the holes used to hang seats, thwarts, etc. in the top of the gunwales.
Slide decks over cut ends of rails. Using 5/32" bit, drill holes for rivets through lower lip of deck and through hull from the outside. Each side of the deck should get two holes, one in each end. Place rivets through holes (four total), and pop with rivet gun.

Care and maintenance of aluminum gunwales

Aluminum gunwales are basically care free. Over time and use, the black powder coating can be abraded, revealing the natural silver color of aluminum. This is a cosmetic issue only, the function and durability of the gunwale is not affected. If you want to restore the black finish, lightly sand area with fine grit sandpaper and paint with a flat black enamel. Multiple light coats will be longer lasting than one heavy coat. Please note this will not be a permanent "repair" and will likely need periodic repainting.

As a lighter weight option on our Royalex hulls, Mad River Canoe has long offered black powder-coated aluminum gunwales. A low-maintenance alternative to the traditional ash, aluminum gunwales save approximately 3-5 pounds per canoe. It must be noted that aluminum gunwales are not as durable as vinyl or wood gunwales and will tolerate being distorted to the same degree that other gunwales will recover from.

When ordering replacement gunwales make sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

Canoes are measured straight down the keel line. Gunwales take a bit more circuitous route getting from end to end. One piece Aluminum rails will fit canoes up to 16 ½’. Place orders for replacement gunwales through your authorized Mad River dealer.

You can identify the one-piece aluminum gunwales for Royalex canoes in two easy ways:

The profile of the gunwale features a flat top and 90o angles at sides; forms a rectangle in cross section.
The “throat” (part of the gunwale that fits down over top of hull) is about ¼ - 3/*’ wide. Royalex hulls are considerably thicker than composite hulls and require a larger throat.

Aluminum gunwales for Royalex hulls cannot be used on composite hulls or vice versa. They are not interchangeable.

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

Replacement one piece aluminum gunwales were used on canoe models such as Horizons, Angler/Tahoe, Reflections, etc. The gunwales are shipped “bent” on a constant curve to facilitate installation. The bend will accommodate just about all symmetrical canoes.
In late 2010, Mad River introduced new 2-part aluminum gunwales to replace the original one-piece gunwale. The new 2-piece gunwales will retrofit to any canoe using the original gunwales but we continue to provide instructions for replacement with one piece gunwale as some of our dealers may still have these in stock.
If you are replacing same style gunwales your original decks will work with these gunwales. If you are replacing gunwales of other materials or a different style gunwale, it would not be unreasonable to expect to have to replace the decks. Unfortunately, we no longer have molds to fit older models and it may be necessary to proceed without decks or to modify new decks if originals do not fit.
If you are uncertain of which model canoe you own, provide the serial number as an alternative. Serial numbers are located on the right side of the stern, just below the gunwale. It will either be engraved on a small brass plaque, or stamped directly into the hull. If it is difficult to read, try making a rubbing with a pencil and a small piece of paper. In the event that the model name is unknown and the serial number is completely unreadable, measure your canoe from stem to stem and width at center and we will approximate as best we can.

Unlike wood gunwales, aluminum gunwales require only two rails per canoe.

These aluminum gunwales are a "unibody" one- piece construction that incorporates inwale and outwale into one piece.

Replacement rivets are required for both replacement and new installations.

If you are removing existing gunwales the rivets will be destroyed in the process. The "average" installation requires 70+/- 5/32" diameter Buttonhead aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels with grip range of 3/16" to 1/4". HA/A612D black rivets are available in packages of 80 from Mad River Canoe via your authorized dealer.

Due to their length, aluminum gunwales cannot be shipped via UPS.

One alternative is to ship by common carrier (via truck) but this is expensive. Gunwales shipped via common carrier will be sent freight collect (payment due on receipt). The best alternative is to arrange shipment of gunwales to accompany a shipment of boats to your local dealer. If this can be arranged, there is no freight charge for the gunwales.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

2 one-piece aluminum gunwales of sufficient length (for a complete re-rail)
Up to 80 HA/A612D rivets or equivalent (actual number will be determined by length of canoe)
Equivalent: Buttonhead aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels (5/32" diameter); grip range: 3/16" to ¼"; Hole diameter .160 to .164
Hardware to secure seats, yoke, thwart, etc. can usually be re-used. If not, measure original hardware and order duplicates.

All above parts are available via your local authorized Mad River Canoe dealer.

TOOLS REQUIRED

Variable Speed Reversible Drill
20' Tape Measure
5/32"; 13/64"; 25/64" Drill Bits
Non-permanent marker
Pop Rivet Gun
10 Quick-Grip spring or Bar clamps or 3” C-clamps
Rubber Mallet
Phillips head screwdriver
Duct tape
3/8” wrench

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Mark location of all seats, thwarts, etc. on inside of hull with grease pencil or washable marker. Once original rails are removed, the proper locations for these fittings will be lost if not noted.
Run tape measure around hull just below existing rails. Mark center point on each side of hull just below rails. These will serve as centering marks for replacement gunwales.
Remove all seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. from canoe. Label and attach all hardware so that it can be reused in original position.
Trace the bottom edge of gunwales on hull. This will give you a good reference point to make sure the new
gunwales are fully pressed down on top of hull. Mark existing rivet locations on hull below gunwale with non-permanent marker.
Remove old gunwales by drilling out rivets or unscrewing screws.
- If you are replacing ash gunwales, simply remove all screws in the gunwales and the decks until gunwales and decks lift off canoe cleanly.
- If you are replacing aluminum gunwales, tape existing gunwales in place by applying duct tape in strips from outside of hull, over gunwale, to inside of hull. Position tape so that it does not cover any rivets. Taping the gunwale will keep the gunwale in position as the rivets are removed and prevent the gunwale slipping or springing free and scratching hull or striking someone. Drill out the existing rivets with a 5/32" bit. Drill from the inside of hull, centering drill on head of rivet. You will need to continue all the way through the rail and hull. The rivet should then slip out easily. First drill through the rivets which attach the decks at either end of the canoe, and then drill out the rivets which attach the gunwales.

Once all the screws have been removed or all the rivets have been drilled out, carefully separate the gunwales and decks from the hull and set them aside.
Clean exposed hull surfaces with a good household cleaner. Be careful not to wash away reference lines for gunwales or for seat locations, etc.
Set replacement gunwales on the ground next to your canoe hull. The replacement gunwales should be pre-bent. Align so that the wide part of the gunwale will be on the inside of hull and the narrow part on the outside.
Using tape measure, locate and mark the center point of the replacement gunwales with non-permanent marker. This mark will line up with the center point you have marked on either side of the hull once the rail has been slid onto the hull.
This step is much more easily accomplished if addressed by two people rather than one. Position one rail over side of hull, aligning center marks. Push rail down onto hull, starting at one end and gently sliding rail over top of hull working towards center. It can be challenging to align the top of hull with the throat in the rail. Do not attempt to start at one end and then push/slide rail down hull towards other end. This will scratch and abrade the hull. As you work your way along hull, tape or clamp gunwale down over top of hull to prevent it from popping off behind you. Do not force the rail down onto the hull and keep a close eye out for any crimping of the hull. You may find it helpful to use a putty knife to align hull and throat and encourage hull to fit into throat of gunwales.
Tamp rail down gently with mallet or palm of hand to fully seat gunwale on hull once completely aligned. Do not pound rail down with force as this can also cause laminate to fracture. Push gunwale down until bottom of gunwale aligns with line traced from original gunwale. Check to be sure center points are aligned. If you need to move the rail backwards or forwards to line up the center marks, gently tap the end of the rail with a rubber mallet until the marks line up.
Clamp rail to hull at approximately ¼, ½, and ¾ of the length of the rail and at each end to secure in position.
Repeat process with second rail on other side of hull. Make sure rail ends are even and are evenly spaced from stem of boat at each end. Confirm that end of gunwales extend past mark indicating ends of the decks. Secure 2nd gunwale with clamps when in proper position.
Make sure ends of gunwales are fully seated on hull and drill holes through cut end of each rail with 5/32" bit, within ¾" of the each end. Holes should be drilled from the outside of the rail. Place rivets through each hole after each is drilled. Once you have drilled all four go back and secure rivets with rivet gun. Slide rivet gun over rivet stud to point where head of gun is flush with head of rivet. This is most easily accomplished by making sure handles of rivet gun are fully released. Squeeze handles together to snap rivet. It may be necessary to squeeze more than once to get rivet to pop. If one pull doesn't do it, release handles and slide gun forward until head of gun and head of rivet are again in contact and then squeeze handle. Keep rivet gun aligned level with rivet. Do not attempt to "help" the process by bending or "torqueing" the rivet gun. This can result in rivet stud being jammed in rivet gun.
Slide the decks over the gunwales and mark ends of deck with marker on inside of hull. Starting from stern end of each rail (end of canoe with serial number on right side), measure and mark locations of rivet holes on flat flange of inside of rails with grease pencil. The new rivet locations should “split the difference” from the old. Do not use same holes as this can create a loose fit. Rivets should be 6 ½” apart. Measure from mark defining end of deck. If existing hole is at 6 ½”, mark gunwale at 3 ¼” and then space rivets at 6 ½”, marking location along flange extending below gunwale on inside of hull.
Step back and "eyeball" each gunwale to make sure it is "fair" and follows sheer line of hull. Gently tap down any high spots or rises in gunwales and re-clamp as needed.
Drill holes at all marked locations with a 5/32"drill bit. Holes should be drilled from the inside of rail. You may need to use a shorter bit to allow access to hole locations up in ends of canoe. If you still cannot access those locations, leave them undrilled. There are sufficient fasteners used to secure the gunwale. Holes should penetrate inside of rail and hull, but should not protrude through outside of rail. Measuring width of gunwale and wrapping tape at corresponding length on drill bit will help prevent accidentally drilling through the
outside of the gunwale.
Place rivets in all drilled holes and secure with rivet gun.
Transfer locations of seats, thwarts, yokes from hull to top of rails. The marks should be located on the inner half of the rail, such that a hole drilled straight down would penetrate the upper and lower surfaces of the rail without contacting the hull itself. Use one of the horizontal lines indented in the top of gunwale as a reference point for drill location.
Using the 13/64" bit, drill straight down through the rail at all marked locations. This should include holes for the bolt hangers for the carry handles (two holes per each handle); seats (four holes per seat); thwarts (two holes per thwart), if applicable; and yoke (four holes total).
Hang seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. from rails, and tighten all hardware. Place dimpled finish washers on bolts and drop through holes in top surface so that threaded shank extends through hole in bottom surface. Install seat or component and secure with flat washer and locknut. You will not use flanged finish washers with this gunwale system. NOTE: If you are replacing ash or vinyl gunwales, you will need kerfed trusses, (seat hangers) in order to accommodate the lip of the gunwale. Tighten hardware fully.
Insert black plastic caps into the holes used to hang seats, thwarts, etc. in the top of the gunwales.
Slide decks over cut ends of rails. Using 5/32" bit, drill holes for rivets through lower lip of deck and through hull from the outside. Each side of the deck should get two holes, one in each end. Place rivets through holes (four total), and pop with rivet gun.

Care and maintenance of aluminum gunwales

Hull (Cross Section)

To visualize this aspect of canoe design, think about bisecting the canoe from side to side. The hull can impact canoe performance in a number of ways, from stability to maneuverability to speed. Canoes usually feature one of three hull cross sections: Flat, Shallow Arch, and Shallow vee. Note that both Shallow Arch and vee can vary in terms of degree or angle.

Shallow Vee

Pros

Most versatile hull cross section
Highest final stability
Superior rough water performance
Better tracking
Superior rigidity for increased hull efficiency
Can be “tuned" (track: paddle straight up; maneuver: lean hull into turn)

Cons

Wear concentrated at point of Vee
Lower initial stability
Slower than shallow arch in calm conditions

Flat Bottom

Pros

High initial stability
Maneuverable

Cons

Reduced final stability
Low structural integrity
Slow
Unpredictable if leaned or in waves
Stability reduced as load increases
Tends to invert (oilcan) unless reinforced or heavily built

Shallow Arch

Pros

Paddling efficiency & speed in calm conditions
Higher final stability than flat bottom
Maneuverable when combined with moderate to extreme rocker

Cons

Performance degrades in rough waters
Lower final stability than shallow vee

Hull (Side Profile)

Refers to the form of the side of the canoe looking at it from one end. Canoe sides can be straight, flared, (wider from waterline to gunwale) or tumble-home (narrower at gunwale than at waterline). A canoe can actually feature all three profiles from end to end with flare at bow, tumble-home at center and straight at the stern. The primary factors in determining choice of side profile are stability, paddling efficiency, and ability to shed waves and water. The amount of flare or tumble-home can vary from model to model.

Straight

Pros

Maintains final stability
Moderately dry vs. side waves

Cons

In deep hulls makes for long reach to water
Subject to windage

Flared

Pros

Driest side hull profile
Increases final stability
Allows for narrower waterline for increased efficiency and speed

Cons

Reduced paddling comfort and efficiency (farther reach to water)

Tucked

Pros

Moderately dry
Maintains final stability
Protects gunwales from side impact or abrasion

Cons

Reduced paddling comfort and efficiency (farther reach to water)

Tumble Home

Pros

Allows more efficient paddle stroke
Preferable for flat/calm water solos

Cons

Reduces final stability
Wet vs. side waves as water will follow curve of hull up side

Keel Line
A canoe's keel line is the profile of the hull bottom running from stem to stem, best seen by standing back and viewing the canoe from the side. The keel line can range from straight or level to highly arched or rockered (think of the runner on bottom of a rocking chair). We classify canoes that have less than 2" of rocker as slightly rockered. Models with rocker ranging from 2" to 3" are considered moderately rockered and those with over 3" of rocker as extremely rockered.

Slightly Rockered

Pros

Enhanced tracking, speed

Cons

Limited maneuverability

Moderately Rockered

Pros

Good balance between maneuverability and speed
Most versatile keel line

Cons

Reduced tracking than straight keel
Reduced speed than straight keel
Less maneuverable than highly rockered

Extremely Rockered

Pros

Enhanced maneuverability

Cons

Poor tracking
Reduced forward speed

Symmetry refers to the shape of the canoe viewed from overhead. Canoes can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. Asymmetrical canoes can be fish-form with widest point ahead of center or swede-form with widest point behind center.

Symmetrical

Pros

Predictable handling
Can be paddled in reverse for better trim with adult/child paddlers or solo paddler

Cons

Slower than swede-form hull

Asymmetrical: Swede Form

Pros

Enhanced forward speed
Enhanced glide

Cons

Can't be paddled backwards without some performance degradation in speed and glide
Can be wet when paddling into waves

Asymmetrical: Fish Form

Pros

Improved buoyancy over drops
Increased dryness and wave deflection

Cons

Slow
Decreased glide

Beam (Width)

Measured at the widest point of the canoe and largely impacts stability and speed. The most common reference is width at the gunwales but an often more telling dimension is width at the waterline, as this will determine the amount of effort required to move the boat through the water.

Narrow (33” or Less)

Pros

Speed
Paddling efficiency

Cons

Lower initial stability

Medium Length (34-37”)

Pros

Good blend of speed, stability, and capacity
Versatility, can be paddled solo or tandem

Cons

Speed/glide falls below narrow canoe
Initial stability lower than a wide canoe

Wide (38” or More)

Pros

Higher initial stability
Stable platform for fishing, photography, etc.

Cons

Slow
Poor glide
Farther reach to water
Difficult to paddle solo

Length

Measured stem to stem and is the most straightforward of all the aspects of canoe design. In terms of versatility, canoes in and around 16' are preferred. Large enough to be paddled tandem with a load or soloed on occasion and fast enough for touring yet nimble enough to work their way down a twisty stream. Canoes with emphasis on cruising speed tend to be longer while whitewater canoes shorter with a premium on maneuverability.

Short (14' or Less)

Pros

Increased maneuverability
Higher initial stability
Nimble and responsive to turning strokes

Cons

Slower
Less glide or carry
Poor tracking

Medium (14.5'-17')

Pros

Moderate speed and glide
Can be paddled tandem or solo
Moderate maneuverability

Cons

Slower than long canoes
Less nimble than shorter canoes

Long (17.5')

Pros

Faster on open, flat water
Better carry or glide between strokes
Increased capacity

Cons

Less maneuverable or nimble
Heavier than short canoe of same material

Regardless of whether you invested in a top end or budget-priced PFD, it behooves you to treat it right so it can do its job on your behalf.

Always hang your PFD up to dry after use. Leaving it to molder in your car trunk will encourage mildew and other infestations that can actually deteriorate the fabric and the thread used in the PFD. This will increase the chance that the PFD may fail while in use.
Do not leave the PFD at the bottom of a heavy load of gear as this can lead to a permanent reduction in the thickness and hence the buoyancy of the foam. If foam is left under constant compression, the cells of the foam will take a permanent “set” in the compressed condition and not offer the same flotation capability it once had.
Basically, treat your PFD with respect. Don’t leave it in a damp boat or musty basement or laying out on the deck where the sun can get to it. Don’t use it to pad your canoe while in storage. When you think about it there’s a lot riding on being sure your PFD can perform up to standards and expectations.

Paddle design is at least as varied as the materials used to make them. Let’s take a paddle apart and address design component by component, starting with the blade.

Blade

Blade shape or design varies depending on usage and on the limitations of the materials used to make the paddle.
Traditional paddles featured long narrow blades, usually no wider than 6 or 6 ½”. The two primary reasons for this shape are the available raw materials of the time and the type of usage in which the paddles were employed, mostly in deep water conditions. The extended length of the blade was dictated by the narrow width as a minimum amount of surface area was required for the paddle to be effective. If it wasn’t available side to side, it had to be made up end to end.
There are two primary blade shapes in traditional paddles: the “Beavertail” with widest point of the blade near the tip and the “Ottertail” with widest point of blade up close to the shaft/blade junction. Both function much the same, choice is a matter of personal preference.
As canoeing has evolved, so has blade shape. Contemporary blade shapes are wider and shorter than in the past with an “average” size blade measuring about 20”+/- long and 8 ½” +/- wide. These dimensions facilitate use in more varied waters from shallow rivers to deep lakes and open water.
Actual shape of the blade can differ slightly but most shapes offer similar performance. The thing to look at is surface area. If you anticipate that your paddling style will be somewhat casual, coasting along in no great hurry, you’re probably going to be better served with a smaller blade. If you’re looking for a work out or want to eat up the miles or paddle in rougher water, a larger blade would be the ticket.
One might think that it’s advisable to opt for a big blade so that you have the power to kick in when wanted but the downside to that approach is you have to pull that blade through the water every stroke, regardless of whether you want to pick up the pace or not. With a smaller blade you can up the pace simply by switching to a more rapid stroke cadence and have the opportunity to back off when you want.
The greatest value to a big blade is actually the ability to deploy stronger braces. A brace is when the paddle is used to help recover a canoe that has been leaned over a mite too far. By laying the blade horizontally on the water surface and applying pressure in what’s called a low brace, you can bring a canoe back to upright position. A “high brace” is used when boat is leaning away from your paddle side.
Most paddles feature rounded corners for a couple of reasons. One is that a round corner as compared to a 90o sharp corner is less susceptible to being chipped or damaged. The other is the softer corner allows for a quieter entry and exit from the water, an important feature especially for the fishing or hunting paddler. The tip is also usually arced or radiused for the same reasons.

Shaft

The shaft is a key component of the paddle for strength and also for comfort and control. A round shaft can have a tendency to rotate in your grip particularly when you are paddling hard, trying to pull the paddle blade through the water aggressively. This makes the blade “flutter” and wobble, making it less efficient under those circumstances.
An oval shaft gives you some reference as to exactly what the blade position is and also provides a form-fitting grip for your lower hand. This measurably enhances control and also minimizes blisters as the shaft has less tendency to want to rotate or spin in your hand. This is also less fatiguing as you don’t have to grip the paddle as hard to keep it steady, it fits the hand better and provides easier control.

Grip

The grip is another component you want to pay attention to. You want a grip shape that fits well in your hand. The two primary grip shapes are a “T” grip and a “Palm” grip.
As the name suggests, the T-grip forms a “T” at the top of the shaft. It is the preferred grip of many whitewater paddlers as it gives a very positive grip to the hand and it also is in line with the blade of the paddle. This allows the paddler to know the exact blade position when they are mixing diverse paddle strokes such as forward, reverse, draw, and bracing strokes without having to look at their blade. This allows them to concentrate fully on the obstacles in the river.
T-grips are often flat on top and bottom to provide that defined shape that such paddlers need.
The alternative grip, the Palm grip, finds favor with paddlers paddling more diverse waters. It’s shape is not as pronounced side to side as the T-grip and the top and bottom are often radiused to more comfortably fit the hand as it closes over the grip. Some palm grips have extra thickness added to the front and back of the grip to further fit the hand contours. This is a feature usually found on more expensive paddles as it requires extra material and labor to build the handle and shape it properly.
The palm grip has the advantage of the paddler being able to change how he or she grasps the grip. A proper palm grip has enough shape that it can provide a firm grip when needed yet can also be more loosely grabbed when conditions allow a more leisurely pace.
Regardless of which grip you prefer, test fit a number of different grips to see what fits your hand the best. Most synthetic grips come out of molds and are the same but you may find subtle differences in wood grips on the same model of paddle. It’s a good idea to try different samples of the model you prefer to find the best grip.
You should also sight down the paddle from the grip to make sure the grip is aligned with the blade and not offset in any way. This can also be tested by laying the paddle on a flat surface and checking to see if contact on each side of grip and each side of blade are consistent.
Last, feel for smoothness throughout the grip. Any rough spot or surface will aggravate your palm while paddling and could result in blisters. Most of the time raised rough spots such as might come from where the paddle was hung when it was varnished, can be knocked down pretty easily and quickly with sand paper. But it is important to make sure you can “fix” the offending area, living with it is not a pleasing experience.

Paddles for children are available and they can make all the difference in terms of a successful trip with the kids. Kids can get bored easily if the only thing they can do is sit and watch the shore go by. It’s far more rewarding if you let them participate, even if at times their efforts are in exact opposition to what you’re trying to accomplish.

A true “kid’s paddle” is not simply a chopped off adult paddle. If so the size of the grip and the shaft would not be well suited to little hands and the blade would be virtually overpowering.
Look for a dedicated kid’s paddle that features kid sized grip, shaft, and blade. Ideally the blade will have some type of protection on it to withstand the ultimate bumps and bruises a kid will put them through. A fiberglass blade with tip protection is recommended. Think of customizing it for your child by putting decals on it or writing their name on it.
The properly sized kids’ paddle will be a key component in getting your little ones involved in the sport.
The preferred size of a children's canoe paddle is 36” with intervals ranging from 4” to 6”.

Wood remains the material of choice for most canoeists. It’s warm, looks good, has a natural flex that’s especially appreciated towards the end of a long day, durable, and can be made into impressively light but strong paddles.

Synthetic paddles tend to fall into two categories and at opposite ends of the pricing spectrum. Paddles with plastic blades and aluminum shafts represent value priced paddles. Their primary appeal is care-free durability. On the down side, they tend to be heavy, stiff, and the aluminum shafts can be uncomfortably cold or hot unless covered with a sleeve. Many paddlers start with one of these due to cost but move on to a wood paddle when able. These paddles do make great spare paddles should a paddle be broken or lost or you’re in shallow rocky waters that might damage a more expensive paddle.

At the other end of the price spectrum are the graphite or carbon paddles that are incredibly light and impressively expensive. These paddles are favored by racers and have been adopted by ambitious paddlers. They can be absurdly light, to the point where they’ve been blown from paddlers hands by a gust of wind. They are also very stiff as competitors want paddles that will not absorb any energy but will transmit that energy fully into moving the canoe forward. For many paddlers, that stiffness can be fatiguing as there’s no “give” to the paddle.

When it comes to wood, there a lot of different woods and ways to build paddles. Traditionally paddles were carved out of one piece of wood, usually a hardwood such as maple, ash, cherry and these paddles are still available today. Due to the lack of availability of such woods in larger sizes these paddles tend to have longer narrower blades, which is fine for deep waters but not so good for shallow water. What good is the part of the blade sticking out of the water when you make a stroke?

There’s also a lot of variation in weight in these paddles, depending on the type of wood and the grain structure. Paddles made of the same wood can be significantly different though of the same size. Careful attention to grain is important in selecting one of these paddles. Look for long straight grain with a minimum of knots, particularly on the shaft or at the junction of the shaft and the blade. Knots make weak spots, it’s that simple. Be wary as well of the lighter of these paddles as about the only way they can be made lighter is to remove material, making the blade or shaft thinner or smaller, possibly to the point where they are fragile.

The majority of paddles offered today are laminated paddles where the manufacturer takes smaller pieces of different woods and glues them together to create a paddle. This process has the advantage of making paddles that are consistently lighter and stronger as the maker can mix various hard and soft woods to get the best attributes of each. Plus the adhesives available today are often stronger than the woods they’re gluing, so that’s not a liability.

Hardwoods such as ash, walnut, cherry, maple provide stiffness and strength and durability, while softwoods such as cedar, fir, pine, basswood offer lightweight and flex. There’s no prescribed or universal formula to building a laminated paddle. Makers will often use locally available woods.

Generally speaking, the more laminations in a paddle the more expensive it will be. The simplest laminated paddles feature a one piece shaft glued to a blade with large panels. This process can make strong paddles but often at a weight penalty. To compensate for the weight, some makers use softwoods in the outer parts of the blade where they’re subject to splitting or getting banged and dinged. Such paddles are better suited to deeper waters.

Better paddles will utilize a series of thinner laminates, perhaps 2” wide or often less and will often sandwich softwoods between the shaft and the edges of the blade. On the outside of the blade you’ll often find thin laminates of hardwood which provides a much more durable edge to the blade than a softwood edge.

A desirable feature on any wood paddle is some form of tip protection. Often the most vulnerable part of a paddle is the tip where hitting obstacles can cause the end of the grain to split. Better paddles provide reinforcement in this are to prevent splitting. Tip protection can take the form of a fiberglass or other synthetic tip to the blade or a crosslaid (horizontal) wood veneer overlay. Such protection will add years to the usable life of a paddle.

Some paddles will extend that technology up the sides of the blade as well, furnishing 360 degree protection to the blade. As you might expect, this feature does add cost to the paddle but if you expect to be paddling in a hostile environment it might well be a good investment.

For added durability paddles may have fiberglass overlaid blades, The fiberglass guards against impacts and scrapes and reduces necessary maintenance. Cosmetically the fiberglass has very little impact as it is clear. It will add some weight to the paddle but again it’s a trade-off that’s often worth it. The one part of the blade that is not protected by the fiberglass is the edges as the ‘glass does not easily wrap around such a sharp edge.

You’ll also likely to encounter blades with a black carbon surface. This is added to increase the stiffness in a blade and to be able to reduce thickness and is usually overlaid over a wood core. The synthetic topcoat does add protection and reduce maintenance as well. Some paddles will feature graphite/carbon on one blade face or on both depending on design intent and use.

Beyond the blade you’ll encounter the shaft. Shafts can be one-piece wood or of laminated construction. Reasons to laminate a shaft include making it lighter and “dialing” in desired stiffness or flex. There’s an advantage as well for paddles that will be used in extremely demanding conditions, such as heavy whitewater or remote wilderness tripping to have a shaft that is “faced” with a hardwood and better able to take abuse and hard knocks. A one piece hardwood shaft tends to be heavy and finding unblemished straight stock can be a challenge so opting for a laminated shaft is a viable option on a number of reasons.

Another advantage of a laminate shaft is an increased resistance to warping or bowing though you can keep a one piece shaft true by being diligent in protecting it with a varnish top coat.

Crowning the shaft is the grip. Most grips are laminated in one form or another to achieve the desired shape on each side of the shaft. Grips can either be extensions of the shaft in center or glued onto the top of the shaft.

Some folks might shy away from wood anticipating long hours spent at the workbench sanding and varnishing their paddles. The finishes used on today’s wood paddles are very durable and usually you can let the paddle acquire a collection of battle scars before having to redo the finish. It’s not a difficult process, basically sanding the areas where it’s chipped or dented as well as those that are discolored (indicates moisture got in under the varnish top coat. Once prep work is complete, use an exterior spar or polyurethane varnish, following manufacturers’ instructions. It’s rare that a paddle will require more than an hour or two of rehab.

If your paddling aspirations include a lot of white water or down river paddling, you may be better served getting a carefree synthetic paddle to better stand up to the bruises and the nicks. Synthetic “sticks” are also often a good idea for beginning paddlers as they’re pretty tolerant of a steep learning curve. Many paddlers will stow a synthetic paddle as their spare paddle in case the water gets bony or unruly.

Straight Shaft Sizing

Overall paddle length is not as critical as shaft length. A 60” traditional style paddle with a 28” long blade will have 7” more shaft length than a 60” contemporary paddle with a 21” blade. That’s a huge difference.

Obviously, the best way to properly size and select a paddle is to get it wet and trial it. If you have this opportunity, take advantage of it. As you paddle, note the height of your top hand. Ideally, you want this hand to stay even and horizontal with your shoulder throughout the paddle stroke. If you find your hand dipping in mid stroke, it’s time to try something a bit longer. If your hand scribes an arc up by your ear, check out a shorter paddle.

It’s not always possible to test paddle so here’s a method that should put you in the ballpark in terms of length:

You can use a paddle or even a broom stick to determine shaft length. Tape a tape measure to the shaft of whatever you’re using.
Kneel on a flat floor. Turn the paddle over upside down and put the grip on the floor just outside one of your knees.
Reach across your body, grab the shaft with your top hand, so your hand is parallel across your body.
Read the measurement from the shaft at point where the shaft emerges from your hand.
When you translate this shaft length to a paddle remember to take into account the extra height added by the grip, particularly if the grip is glued onto top of shaft.
The most common interval for paddle length sizing is 3”, though you’ll find some paddles sized at 6” and others at 2” intervals. This is when you need to think about the paddling position you will be in most of the time. If you’re paddling from bow or stern, you can likely go down an inch or two from optimum size (say you measure 58” when kneeling and paddles are sized at 57” and 60” intervals; in this case you’re safe to drop down an inch to the 57”. However, if you anticipate a fair amount of paddling from center of the boat where it’s the widest and there’s a longer reach to the water, you’ll probably be happier with the 60” edition.

In terms of popularity, paddles in the 57” range are the most popular, followed by those around 60” and 54”. It’s rare to get a call for 51” or 66” straight shaft paddles, though stand-up paddlers are looking for much longer paddles.

Bent Shaft Sizing

Like the straight shaft, best way to go about this is to trial paddle some bents. If you’ve never tried a bent, you owe it to yourself to give it a try and get a taste. You never know.

If an on-water trial is not practical you can follow the procedure outlined below, keeping in mind that paddling position and type of canoe can swing the pendulum towards one length or another. Most bent shaft models are sized in 2 “ increments.

Sit in a straight back chair and keep you back straight. Take a paddle or your broomstick and place it upside down (grip down) on the seat of the chair between your legs. Sitting “tall” hold the shaft up in front of you. Note the measurements at your chin and your nose. These lengths will likely work for you and which way you ultimately go would depend on the same qualifiers used with straight paddles.

The most common length of bent shaft paddles is 50” with 52” not far behind. People use just about as many 54”s as they do 48”s. For a small adult or adolescent, consider a 46”.

At Mad River Canoe, we're proud to offer two series of very capable yet very different recreational canoes: the Adventure Series and the Journey Series. How to choose between them?

In terms of durability, it's a toss-up. Both are made of durable, care-free polyethylene. Same goes for care-free maintenance, neither design is going to make a big demand on your free time and is always ready to hit the water. When it comes to weight, again not much to choose between.

It's in terms of design and amenities that the two diverge and force you to make a choice. Each series takes a different route to delivering the performance preferred by recreational canoeists.

Adventure 14 and 16

The Adventure series is typified by their kayak-style coaming. They feature a shallow-arch hull with enhanced final stability due to a multi-chine hull side. The hull transitions from bottom to side in a series of “steps” or “phases." These provide discernible stability “shoulders” that firm the canoe upright when leaned.

The straight forward efficiency of the Adventures is enhanced by the straight keel line with minimum rocker and a keel extended well into the stern of the hull. The hull is also stiffened by multiple supports connecting seats with hull; this translates into increased paddling efficiency.

The Adventures offer substantial “creature comforts” standard, such as multiple cupholders and storage bins, padded contoured seats, and adjustable padded back rests. The molded-in center seat is a great boon to paddling families with children and can be used to paddle the canoe solo.

The 14 saves about 8 lbs over the 16 and is a bit handier in tighter waters with a lot of maneuvering required. It's a bit wider and a bit more stable than the 16 as well. The 16 has a higher capacity, more center room to stretch your legs (particularly for people in the center seat), and is a tad faster on flat water. Both have ample ability to float a family of 4, support serious fishing, etc.

The Adventure 16 is designed to accommodate an electric trolling motor with minimal fuss. A motor mount kit is available and reasonable and easily installed at the stern. Then it's a simple matter of mounting the motor, placing the battery in the hull and hooking up. The Adventure 14 is not designed to accommodate a motor.

The Adventures cannot be solo-portaged (carried by one person at center) very easily due to the dropped center seat. If your dreams include canoe-camping with portages involved, this can be a concern and should be taken into consideration.

Journey 158 (15'8”) and 169 (16'9”)

Compared to the Adventures, the Journeys are much more traditional looking canoes. They have symmetrical hulls (same shape in front of center as behind) which make them handle more predictably in different types of water. They're friendly for solo use (particularly the 158) especially when you sit in the bow seat and paddle the hull “backwards.”

The shallow arch hull provides solid stability and is enhanced by a touch of flare in the sides of the canoe to firm up the hull when leaned. The hulls are wide at center, further improving stability and seaworthiness as well as capacity.

They have enough rocker to allow them to maneuver well, enabling them to be used on tight streams and twisting watercourses. They also paddle and track well on flat open water and have a surprising turn of speed and acceleration. All this makes for a boat that you're not likely to outgrow any time soon and one that is well suited to expanding paddling horizons.

The Journeys are available in choice of woven web seats or rotomolded seats. The rotomolded seats are contoured and comfortable but heavy compared to the web seats. The web seats are ventilated and dry quickly. It's kind of a matter of picking your “poison.” Both work quite well and are durable, though the “roto” seats are entirely maintenance free.

Similar to the Adventures, the Journey 158 saves about 8 lbs over the 169 and is the better fit if you're paddling waters with more turns than straights or for paddlers of smaller stature. The 169 has a better turn of speed and glide and allows you to work a bit less when crossing or cruising open waters.

Both Journeys come standard with shaped ash portage yokes, mounted at the balance point. This enables solo portaging of the canoes in relative comfort (portaging is never painless). The open, uncluttered interior welcomes significant amounts of gear, family, pets, etc. more than enough to support multiple days on the water.

Enjoy - it's one of those rare moments when you can't really lose - both series will provide the platforms for a lot of enjoyable hours on the waters of your choice.

What are cold cracks?

Royalex® is sensitive to temperature. Simply put, Royalex will contract when exposed to cold temperatures. This material property is the cause of what are termed "cold cracks." Cold cracks are fractures of the material usually running perpendicular to the keel line of the canoe and terminating at a fastener along the gunwale line. A canoe can experience a single cold crack or show a series of roughly parallel cracks over a portion of the hull. The majority of cold cracks occur towards the ends of the canoe.

Cold cracks result when the hull contracts in opposition to the gunwales remaining stable or actually expanding (wooden gunwales with entrapped moisture). As the hull contracts in opposition to the gunwales, stress eventually builds up that results in a sheer tear in the hull material at the point of junction between gunwale and hull.

How common are cold cracks?

Cold cracked hulls are actually quite rare (well less than ½ of 1% of Royalex hulls in existence) contrary to the amount of concern the problem receives amongst the paddling community. There are literally thousands of Royalex canoes that successfully winter over year after year in the northern United States and Canada without any problem. Some years the numbers are worse than others but a "bad" year, still only results in reports of 20-25 canoes suffering cold cracks. Most years we get reports of no more than 10.

This is not to downplay the impact when it is your boat that cold cracks, but to provide perspective as to the frequency of occurrence.

At what temperature do cold cracks occur?

We know why the problem occurs, the bigger issue is there is no absolute way to predict when a hull will crack. There's no such thing as a predictable threshold of 10o or 15o that will result in a cold crack. Nor can we specify that “X” temperature for “X” number of days will result in a cold crack.

We've had seasons when we've received reports of hulls cracking as far south as North Carolina while at the same time not hearing of any problems in Ontario or Maine. We've also heard of one person finding his boat cold-cracked while his neighbor, who stored his identical boat in a very similar manner did not have the problem. We've run into boats that cold crack the first winter out and others who haven't cold cracked in 25 years. This is one of the most frustrating aspects of this issue, there's seemingly no rhyme or reason to it.
We also have sufficient data to indicate that a sudden and severe drop in temperatures such as might accompany the onset of a strong cold front can also be a significant cause of cold cracks. However, similar to the above, we have no set formula that specifies a drop of “X” degrees with an “X” amount of time will create cold cracks.

Another contributing factor to cold cracks is canoes being bumped or dropped in freezing temperatures and fracturing upon impact. It is best not to handle or move your canoes in such conditions. Wait for a better day.

Are certain types of gunwales more prone to cold cracking than others?

Wood gunwaled canoes are the most prone to cold cracking. This is primarily due to the absorption of moisture in the wood rail which will then expand as it freezes, resulting in a gunwale that is actually growing while the hull is contracting. As you might expect have forces moving in opposition to one another is usually a good formula for failure.

One thing that is key to successfully wintering over a wood gunwaled royalex canoe is properly maintaining the gunwales with Gunwale Guard. Gunwale Guard seals against moisture penetration and retention and increases the elasticity of the wood. Dry (un-oiled) gunwales readily absorb and retain moisture which will then be subject to expanding when freezing.

We know properly oiled wood gunwales are effective in minimizing cold cracks simply because Mad River stored hundreds of Royalex canoes with wood rails throughout an awful lot of Vermont winters in an unheated warehouse with very, very few losses. Those canoes benefitted from a fresh and thorough coating of oil.
As noted above, merely slapping on a coat of oil when putting your boat up is unlikely to do the trick and may actually increase the likelihood of a problem. Gunwales that have not been properly maintained need to be thoroughly dried before being re-oiled.

Synthetic gunwales are less prone than wood but it is certainly not unheard of for a canoe with synthetic gunwales to cold crack. Aluminum gunwales are probably a bit more susceptible to contributing to a cold crack than vinyl, particularly if a rapid drop in temperatures occurs. In such a scenario, the temperature impact on the hull causes the hull to shrink faster than the aluminum responds and the speed of the shrink can result in a cold crack. Cold cracks are least frequent in canoes with vinyl gunwales as the shrinkage coefficient of the gunwale is consistent with that of Royalex. However, most vinyl gunwales have an aluminum insert to provide the necessary stiffness for paddling and in most cases, the gunwale is affixed to the hull via screws or rivets driven through the aluminum insert. Thus, it's certainly not impossible to find a vinyl railed canoe with a cold crack.

How can I prevent cold cracks?

Almost 40 years of experience and a lot of hours and intelligence dedicated to the problem, not only by Mad River but also the manufacturer of Royalex as well as other canoe manufacturers, and no one has yet come up with a guaranteed way to prevent cold cracks, short of storing your canoe in a heated area.
Fortunately, there are ways you can minimize the likelihood of cold cracks. These range from storing your boat in a heated space to removing or loosening some of the fasteners in the gunwale. The recommended process has been adopted from long experience of a Mad River dealer in northern Canada. He exclusively uses Royalex canoes with wood rails in his tripping business as the royalex provides the durability he needs and the wood gunwales are the only kind that can be repaired in the field. In 20+ years of experience the only hulls he has lost to cold cracks have been due to a rack collapsing and dropping canoes to the ground or a canoe being bumped in severe conditions.

We recommend removing all screws from each gunwale except the 3 centered over the portage yoke. This is also a great opportunity to freshen up the oil on your gunwales, particularly on the side of the gunwale that rests against the hull.

Royalex Canoes with riveted Aluminum or vinyl Gunwales

With canoes with gunwales attached with rivets, there's not much to be done. If a strong cold front is predicted with significant and rapid temperature drop anticipated, you might be wise to throw some type of insulation over the canoe to slow down the impact of a severe temperature decrease. Quilted mover's blanket pads, old blankets, etc. all will help.

Royalex Canoes with square drive fasteners (such as Vinyl or IQ2 Gunwale systems)

Though less likely to suffer cold cracks than wood gunwales, if you live in regions that suffer prolonged severe cold or are prone to swift onset of cold fronts, it may be to your advantage to reduce stress on your hull by:

Back out screws used to secure decks to hull. Many decks are secured by rivets as well as screws. Back out any screws used for this purpose, leave rivets intact.
Halfway back out the first 6 screws securing gunwales on each side, starting from stem. Back out screws until they are free of the hull. You may want to tape them to the gunwale for reinsertion next spring.

Royalex Canoes with IQ aluminum gunwales

The IQ gunwale is secured via square drive fasteners. Decks are secured by Phillips head screws.

Remove decks from each end.
Pull slide cover sleeve on outwale towards end to reveal fasteners for 2' from end of canoe.
Remove exposed screws.
Push cover sleeve back in place and repeat process at opposite end of canoe, pulling cover from that end to expose screws.
Lift up on interior gunwales and slide ¼" thick wedge between gunwale and sheer line of hull to elevate gunwales above top of hull.

Are cold cracks covered under warranty?

No. Cold cracks are caused by subjecting the hull material to stress beyond its design limitations and are thus excluded from warranty coverage.

The manufacturer of Royalex does not warranty the material to the canoe molders for this issue. It is their position that it is a material limitation, not a material defect, that makes the material prone to cold cracks. Given all the studies and effort that has been dedicated over the year to solving this issue, that position is justified.

Mad River has logged and studied years of cold crack reports looking for any patterns that could be clues to potential solutions for this issue. We have analyzed reports to see if any specific Royalex sheet design has shown to be more prone to cold cracking than another and have never found any correlation in that regard. Nor have we found that Royalex produced during a specific time period was more prone to cracking than that from another time frame.

The facts that no correlations have been uncovered,that occurrences seem to be overwhelmingly random in nature, and that diligence in preparing a canoe for winter storage do reduce the incidence of cold cracks all give credence to the position that this is an endemic limitation in the material's ability to respond to temperature changes.

It is rare that a canoe will suffer cold cracks sufficient to render it unsafe to operate after repair. For this to be the case, there has to be a high number of cracks on each side and for opposing cracks to come within close proximity to one another. In the vast majority of cases, cold cracks are fully repairable and there is no compromise on the integrity of the hull.

Mad River Canoe's response to cold cracks has long been to assist the owner to get the boat back on the water. We don't think it fair that the owner should be left holding the nasty end of the stick all by themselves and will usually work with owners to provide necessary repair materials at a reduced cost, providing that photographic evidence indicates that the gunwales have been properly maintained. If the gunwales look to have been ignored from experience we know that this is definitely a major contributing factor to cold crack occurrence. This is also something that is obviously beyond Mad River's control and it follows that we will not take responsibility for correcting that circumstance or any results thereof.

How are cold cracks repaired?

In short, kevlar or fiberglass patches are placed on the inside of the canoe and embedded in epoxy adhesive. It is not a particularly complex process but can be a bit messy.

It can be argued - which is the more important purchase, the canoe or the paddle(s)? As might be expected due to cost and investment, most people think first of the canoe but your choice of paddle can have an equal, if not greater, impact on the quality of your paddling experience.

Think about it, you lift and carry the canoe a couple of times in a day (unless you're on the 7 Carries Route in the Adirondacks or something similar). When it comes to the paddle though, you'll be lifting and swinging it hundreds of times a day, if not a 1000. If that paddle is heavy or poorly balanced, the result is going to be fatigue and muscle stiffness and soreness, and less than fond memories of your time on the water. If that paddle is too stiff or has a too-large blade or wrong length shaft, the results will be the same.

With paddles, it is very much a situation of you get what you pay for. Inexpensive paddles, whether synthetic or wood, tend to favor durability and a lack of attention to detail. Making a quality paddle requires skills and craftsmanship and time, all of which add to the cost of the “stick” but can make all the difference out on the water.

If there's any place in the buying process where you should stretch your budget if possible it's when you select your paddles. Too often, the canoe gets all the attention during the buying process and by the time that's nailed down, the tendency is to hustle through the paddle selection, maybe lowball the paddle to salvage some of the budget. To fall prey to this is to shortchange yourself and the paddling experience you can achieve.

When you test paddle or demo potential canoes, check out the paddles available and give some different ones a try to get a feel for the difference it can make. Oftentimes, paddles provided for demos tend to be lower end models but still it's worthwhile to trial what's available.

If your budget is maxed out and all you can afford to get the boat on the water are the most inexpensive paddles, by all means do it, but immediately start putting some money aside to upgrade those paddles and relegate them to roles as spare or beater paddles to be used in shallow abusive conditions that can damage your best paddles.

If you do some homework, you'll realize it's not too difficult to find paddles that may well cost more than some canoes. Most likely though, you won't have to go to that extreme to find a paddle that suits you well.

Things to consider in selecting a paddle

Length

An awful lot of paddlers got their first experience with canoe paddles at summer camp and oftentimes the sizing process entailed standing up and being given a paddle that came up to your chin or close to it. While this is efficient in terms of getting people off the beach and into boats, it isn't a process you should rely on when selecting your personal paddles. For one thing, standing height has little to do with proper paddle size; after all, the vast majority of your paddling will be done from a sitting or kneeling position, not standing tall. Second, that traditional sizing method was based on paddles that featured long narrow blades. Most contemporary paddles are made with shorter wider blades. If you use the old simple sizing method with a modern paddle, you'll end up with a paddle with a shaft far too long to work well. Think about it this way: a 60” narrow “beavertail” paddle could have a blade that measures 26” long by 6” wide, resulting in a 34” long shaft. If you translate that to a contemporary paddle with a 19” by 7” blade, that translates to a 41” long shaft, fully 7” longer.

Blade Size

Many new paddlers opt for big blades under the impression that they can generate more power and make the canoe go faster, much like a V-8 will kick the butt of a 4 cylinder engine. But that power comes with a price.

The bigger blade creates more resistance moving through the water as well as the air on the recovery phase. More mass also usually translates to increased weight, not a good thing. Large bladed paddles are simply harder to use in terms of endurance and strength. There's a reason the Voyageurs of the Canadian Fur Trade opted for skinny blades even though they were paddling big canoes.

Simply put, the bigger the blade the more effort it takes to put it to use. As paddlers become more experienced they realize that they can generate speed and more importantly, sustained speed, more efficiently through stroke rate and rhythm than by simple power or force. The latter can not be sustained for long periods of time and what can be the most telling is that even when pulled through the water at a reduced pace, a big blade still generates a lot of resistance, making it difficult to rest and recuperate.

Weight

With paddles, it's a case of less being more. Generally speaking, lighter paddles are preferred to heavier unless the type of paddling you're intending needs maximum durability, such as whitewater. But even then, if you have the choice between two models of apparent equal durability, go lighter.

It's simple physics, a lighter paddle is easier to lift and swing through the air as well as pull through the water. The difference may not seem like much in the morning but by the late afternoon, it's all too plain and evident. Ounces add up. For arguments sake, say a paddler takes 1000 strokes in a day. If his paddle weighs 30 ozs, he's lifted 1,875 pounds in the course of those 1000 strokes. If the paddle weighs 21 ozs, that translates to a burden of 1312 ozs., a savings of about 40%, nothing to be sneezed at.

Balance

Balance is often the most overlooked aspect of paddle design yet is critical to paddle performance. A paddle with poor balance, particularly with a heavy blade, can wear you down in short order. What we're talking about here is swing weight, the effort needed to lift the blade from the water and swing it forward for the next stroke. With weight in the blade, more effort is required to lift the blade from the water and move it forward. And it's not just the effort to lift the blade but also the amount of force that you have to exert by pushing down on the grip to lift the blade that adds up.

To determine balance, grasp the paddle at the hilt – just above the junction of the shaft and the blade. The paddle should rest pretty much horizontally with a slight weight balance towards the blade. Avoid a paddle that dives blade down as soon as released or one that is grip heavy. If you've found a style or make of paddle you like, test every one that the store has on hand in the proper size. Due to variations in materials, the balance of each example of the same model of paddle will vary.

Shaft

Test the fit of the shaft by gripping it with each hand just above the junction with the blade. As you will inevitably be switching sides it's important to know the shaft is comfortable for both hands. Evaluate the thickness of the shaft, does it make for a comfortable grip? If too large or too small either will cause discomfort and problems. Do not grab the shaft like a hammer handle, keep your grip a bit loose and fingers slightly open.

The other aspect you want to give attention to is the shape of the shaft. Less expensive paddles tend to rely on a circular shaft due to ease of manufacture. More sophisticated paddles tend to feature ovallized shafts which increase both comfort and control of the paddle.

Grip

The grip is a key component in terms of both comfort and control. Grip styles can vary from a palm or pear grip to a defined “T” grip. Though ultimately the choice is a matter of personal preference and comfort, T-grips tend to be favored for whitewater or river paddling while palm grips are the most common choice for touring and cruising paddling.

T-grips offer the advantage of increased control and leverage over the paddle, important attributes in the chaotic world of whitewater. The T-grip is aligned with the blade and the paddler learns to precisely position their blade angle by positioning the grip.

Palm grips come in a range of different sizes and shapes and their primary advantage is the ability to shift or alter your grip as the day goes on or demands change. This makes for a more comfortable grip in the long run.

Regardless of which you choose, test fit the grip with both hands. Judge size, both width and thickness and how it fits your hands (both of them!). Look for any sharp edges or rough areas that can translate into blisters or aggravation on the water. With wood grips you can fine tune the grip shape by sanding or filing the grip. You don't often have that option on a molded synthetic grip.

Protection

Protection refers to the reinforcements placed at high wear and impact areas. Generally, the more expensive the paddle the more plentiful the reinforcements. Consider the most likely places for a paddle to take abuse; the first that comes to mind is the end of the blade where it's likely to be jammed into the bottom or banged off a rock. Avoid wood paddles with laminates running down the blade and ending at the tip without any protection. Wood is prone to splitting at the end grain and this is just what is exposed in this style of construction. An impact on the tip can easily result in a split in the grain that expands upward further and further into the blade.

There are a number of different ways to protect the tip of a wood paddle. Some manufacturers wrap the end of the blade in fiberglass. Others encapsulate the end in a urethane resin. Placing a wood veneer that runs across the blade, 90o to the blade laminate is a light weight means of protection. Aluminum tip inserts are also used to provide additional wear and tear.

Another area prone to wear and tear as well as damage is along the vertical edges of the paddle blade. These areas don't see as much abuse but can be vulnerable, especially when things get out of control and the paddle is flailing around. A simple way to reinforce blade shoulders and sides is use a hardwood laminate in that position rather than a softwood. More expensive paddles may have thin stem bent wood edging applied to edges of blade. The advantage is the comparative lighter weight of a thin edge vs. a 1” wide laminate.

Fiberglass wrapped edges do not usually last as long as one might think. Fiberglass cloth does not take kindly to being bent 90o twice in close proximity. It doesn't take much of an impact to pop the ‘glass free of the wood.

A fiberglass overlay on the surface of the blade does add protection and protects against torqueing stress, where one corner of the blade is trapped and the blade is twisted under stress. The ‘glass adds torsional rigidity but it does add some weight as well. Higher end paddles will utilize carbon or graphite in this manner. Much lighter in weight, much stiffer, and, surprise, surprise; much more expensive.

There are two primary ways that synthetic paddle blades are strengthened. One is to use a stronger resin and the other is to make a thicker blade. One adds cost the other adds weight and can affect the paddle's balance.

How do you judge how durable a paddle you need?

Analyze the type of paddling you will be doing. If you're going to be paddling serious whitewater, go durable as you can and worry less about the weight. Look for stout construction, reinforced blade, solid junction of blade and shaft and shaft and grip. If shallow streams are the norm, think of reinforcing the blade, especially across the tip. If your paddling will be in deeper, calm or open water, favor balance and light weight over durability.
Be honest and consider how well you take care of your possessions. Do you wipe down everything after each use and store in a prepositioned place (and then sweep the floor as you leave)? Or are you more the throw it in the trunk and go type of person. It's likely then that if you're the former, a lighter less durable paddle will serve well. If you're a bit more casual in your TLC, opt for something that can take a bit of a licking.

Buying a canoe without a test paddle is akin to buying a car without a test drive. You better have a very, very, good idea of what you're buying or there's going to be some surprises and not all of them are likely to be positive. You can read all you want about hull design and length vs beam and rocker or lack thereof but bottom line, oftentimes the canoe that's right for you will be the one that has the right “feel.” And you can't get that from a website (well, not yet) or a catalog, or on the showroom floor.

Feel is very highly resistant to quantification. It is deeply entrenched in the qualification world, embedded well into subjectivity. Yet it is a critical deciding factor in a canoe purchase. You can quantify the dimensions of the boat you're thinking about as well as its' hull attributes, but feel is kind of like the sum of all the parts along with the addition of a big “X” factor. Feel is something you can only get a hint of by getting a hull wet.

That said, you definitely want to do your homework prior to test paddling a canoe that looks to be custom made for your purposes. The demo or test-paddle should be the clinching argument in your selection process, validating all your prior research or perhaps sending you back for more if it's not what you anticipated.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK AND KEEP AN OPEN MIND

The first step to having an effective canoe demo or test paddle is to do your homework in advance. Before cruising manufacturer's websites in depth and collecting catalogs or visiting local dealers, or talking with local paddlers and paddling clubs, etc., the first thing you need to do is to construct a picture of how you expect the canoe to be used and where it will be used. Take a moment and also consider honestly how diligent you are in maintaining your gear and where the canoe will live while not in use. Just as important, give some long hard thought as to how you anticipate the canoe being used a couple of years down the road.

Answers to these questions can go a long way in simplifying the canoe selection process by eliminating boats that don't fit within your parameters and helping you hone in on models that match up well.

Having a handle on expected use will also make it simpler to navigate websites and catalogs. Most manufacturers categorize their models by what kind of usage they are designed for. If you take the time to get a grasp on what uses are most important to you, you can quickly hone in on the canoes a specific manufacturer recommends for those activities.

Questions about durability, maintenance, storage will often have a large voice in what kind of material will best fit your paddling profile and this can further help qualify the number of canoes of interest.

Don't take the “easy” route when someone asks what you want out of a canoe by answering that you want an “all purpose” canoe. Those animals simply do not exist. If they did the buying process (not to mention the manufacturing and selling process) would be far simpler. What you can look for is varying degrees of versatility and that's one reason why it's time well spent to review websites and catalogs. There's different flavors and interpretations of versatility and if you can find a definition that closely matches your personal interpretation, you've found a good place to start.

At the same time, don't entirely disregard alternative definitions. That's one of the reasons you need to think down the road a little bit as you may find the paddling you want to grow into will favor a different canoe than the one that might seem best at this moment. The intent of this homework is to narrow down your options so that you don't spend time looking at canoes that have no hope of serving you well.

The role of the test paddle is to confirm and validate the best choice of the remaining candidates. For the best results, cast a bit of a broad net, including models with differing hull designs. One shape may ring some intuitive bells but don't sell yourself short by not taking advantage of trying some alternative designs. The experience may very well validate your original impressions or it could open new doors that need to be looked into.

That's the open mind we're looking for. Don't go into a demo planning on paddling one boat, plan to trial at least two, preferably three, one of whom differs somewhat in terms of material and/or design from what you anticipate is best for you. That's the best way to put your mind at rest. Think of it like trying different ice creams. If you lean towards vanilla, give that French version a try, it'll be close but a little different; then give a chocolate a test, just to make sure vanilla's still your preference.

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF A TEST PADDLE

Demo or test paddle opportunities come in a variety of forms. Manufacturers sponsor travelling demo days with factory personnel bringing boats to local dealers. Some dealers sponsor demo days on their own others may offer a test-paddle evening each week. Many dealers will accommodate a personal test paddle for serious customers.

It's important to confirm with the dealer that the models you are interested in will be available for a test paddle at the event. If you've done your homework, you well know it's unrealistic to expect a retailer to have every boat available. You may find that you need to “settle” for a boat close to what you have in mind, maybe a longer or shorter edition of same model or something with a very similar hull design but in a different material.

Don't let that keep you off the water. You'll no doubt gain valuable insight paddling similar canoes and that experience will likely confirm or contradict the expectations you had when you stepped on the beach. That's all to the good.

Alternatives to demo days can be identified by locating and contacting local paddling clubs. They may offer paddling “socials” or just present an opportunity to make contact with individual members who may paddle the boat(s) you might have in mind and may well loan you the canoe to try.

Another alternative is canoe rental companies. Depending on the canoe you have in mind, you may find a rental operation that rents those models or something very close to it. Now if you're looking for an ultralight foam-cored Kevlar© tripping canoe, you'll most likely have to head to the BWCA or Algonquin to find one to test but if you're in the market for a care-free versatile family canoe, odds are you can find one pretty close to home.

Once you have your test paddle opportunity nailed down, it's important that you prepare properly to make the most of it.

Number one, don't go into a test paddle opportunity with the mindset of going for a canoe ride. You'll sell both yourself and the retailer short if you do. The opportunity is too valuable and too important to waste.

Take your normal “crew” with you to the demo. A canoe is a pretty small vessel and it's best that everyone aboard is comfortable and happy with their accommodations. You can't stow a disgruntled bow paddler below decks after all and two kids without enough room is a recipe for disaster. A canoe that you think feels good and solid may feel too tender to your significant other. Now is the time to find that stuff out, not when the canoe is bought and paid for.

If a dog or pet is expected to be a constant companion, first check out whether the demo site allows dogs and also make sure the animal is no threat to other attendees. Keep the animal on a leash and make sure he/she stays in your boat or at your side at all times.

Dress to paddle; leave the loafers and high heels at home and dress warm enough that you can keep your focus on paddling instead of how cold you or your spouse or the kids are. Take along spare shoes and socks and leave in the car so folks can change to dry footwear after the event. If you want to play it safe, bring fresh set of clothes for each paddler.

Just about all demos rightfully require participants to wear PFDs while paddling. Don't just grab a couple of PFDs off the pile and head out, take the time to find PFDs that fit. Strapped into a too tight and binding PFD will do nothing but take your mind off what and how you're paddling.

Be judicious also in selecting your paddles. Take pains to get the right size paddles. Using too long a paddle is awkward and again distracts you from focusing on the canoe performance. Going too short may make you lean over towards the water too far, compromising impressions of the canoe's stability.

Don't head out thinking about paddling only the canoe you think is the one. Plan on trialing a number of canoes in order to confirm that you're on the right track. Paddle two canoes that are similar length and beam but differ in hull shape. You may be surprised which one has the best “feel” discussed earlier. Take advantage too to try out a boat of a different material. If you think you're going polyethylene try a royalex canoe; if you think royalex is the ticket, try a composite. You may find that you'll be happiest deferring your decision and heading home to save some extra dollars to step into a different material.

Strategize your test paddle, plan to put each canoe through its' paces, getting a feel for how well it goes straight, how easy it is to turn, how well it glides and how easy it is to maintain a cruising speed, how comfortable it is in terms of “accommodations”, how secure you and yours feel while afloat, etc. If there's some wind and some chop out there, test the boat going into, with, and across the wind and waves.

Think less about how powerfully you paddle and more about rhythm. Ease into your strokes and to test how fast a canoe is or how quickly it accelerates, increase the cadence (number of strokes per minute) rather than trying to dig harder into the water.

One of the most difficult skills challenging paddlers new to canoes is the ability to go straight. You can test the canoe by picking a point on the far horizon and see how well you can keep the hull pointing at that spot. However, bear in mind that your skills will inevitably improve the more you paddle and you may find over time that you want or need a canoe that can turn quickly and predictably as well.

Plan to paddle each different canoe the same, same course, same distance, same succession or maneuvers and tests. Consistency provides the most accurate basis for comparison. Have paddlers maintain same positions in the different canoes.

Be prepared to try out the same canoe more than once. Things can get a bit muddled if you're paddling 2 or 3 models and also trying shepherd kids, pets, etc to the right place at the right time. There's no harm in going out again and reinforcing first impressions.

If you're looking for a family canoe, try the boat out with different paddlers in different positions. Both adults may not always be available each time you go out, you may have a child paddling at times, check out how the boat handles in that situation.

If you're thinking about taking the canoe out solo at times, by all means do that as well at the demo. Bear in mind many canoes paddle better solo “backwards”, that is, from the bow seat with the canoe reversed. This puts the solo paddler closer to center and provides better trim.

It's advisable to test the canoe for stability by doing so closer to shore in shallower water where you can brace the hull upright by pushing against the bottom with your paddle. That way, taking it a step too far won't have such serious (and potentially embarrassing) results. If the kids are along, have them both lean over one side of the canoe to see how stable the boat is with an uneven load.

What you're primarily evaluating during a test paddle is the canoe hull design. When it comes to hull material about the only impact you can qualify is comparative weight. Many similar designs are made in both polyethylene and in Royalex. Both materials are pretty comparable in terms of durability and require minimal maintenance. Royalex has the advantage of being about 20% lighter and more easily repaired. Poly counters with lower price.

However, the demo does give you the opportunity to see how much weight you and yours can handle comfortably. Pick each canoe up and carry them up the beach aways – does that 20% make a difference? Better yet, fetch your vehicle close to the beach and with supervision from event staff, try loading the boat onto your vehicle. That's where that 20% may make a significant difference. There's no point in considering a canoe that you can't get onto your vehicle to get it to the water. That discovery may make the higher priced Royalex option far more appealing.

If you approach your test paddle with an established “agenda”, it will be more productive, rewarding, and informative and you'll be less likely to encounter some unpleasant surprises down the road. You'll be able to better quantify each canoe's attributes and performance and that is what makes comparison paddling so valuable in the canoe selection process. By the time the test paddle opportunity is complete, you should be in a position to choose your canoe with confidence.

Good luck, enjoy the process, don't anguish over it. After all, there's no such thing as a bad day on the water.

Skid Plates are hard shells that wrap the stems or ends of the canoe and provide additional protection against abrasion and impact. Most commonly made of a dense Kevlar© felt infused with epoxy resin, skid plates can extend the canoe's lifetime as well as repair damaged ends.

Again, the issue with skid plates on polyethylene canoes is getting a good bond between resin and hull. The stems of the Adventures are very tight and sharp and it is difficult to make the Kevlar felt follow such tight shapes. For this reason, we recommend that skid plates be considered as a possible option only on the Journey Series amongst Mad River Recreational canoes. Conventional wisdom is to use an epoxy resin, lightly sand the areas, flame them and then mix the epoxy, wet out the skid plate felts and stick them on the canoe. Due to the degree of curvature at the ends of the canoe, there isn't as much flexibility in this area to create concern but what can create trouble is the likelihood of this part of canoe taking an impact which can literally “shock” the skid plate off of the hull. Should this occur, usually the skid plate pops free of the exterior surface of the triple tough hull and leaves the hull surface intact.

If your canoe has been dented in the stem and you want to put a skid plate over the damage, you'll first need to fill the void caused by the crease or the dent. You don't want to leave a void between the skid plate and the hull as this can result in the skid plate being fractured if struck at that void. A 2-part Epoxy resin (harmonygear.com) is a good choice to use to fill the void. You'll need to do the light sanding and the flaming surface prep as usual.

Just like virtually all IQ modules, the IQ Footbrace is fully adjustable for use in multiple positions. It is adjustable both as to position and to height. Now paddlers of all sizes can take full advantage of the benefits of using a footbrace: increased efficiency, stability, and comfort. And for the first time, it’s not necessary to drill holes in your hull to mount a footbrace.

ASSEMBLY

Unpackage footbrace and identify stainless rod hangers (2) and web strap assemblies (2). Locate ¼” nuts (2) and bungee cord assembly with hooks (1).
Slide bungee cord into black footbrace tube. Hold hook on one end in line with holes in end of footbrace. Insert threaded end of one hanger through hole in black tube and then through hook on bungee cord and exit through bottom hole in tube. Push tube up against stopper nut installed on hanger.
Place aluminum fitting on end of strap assembly over end of hanger extending below tube and capture with ¼” nut. Tighten with 7/16” wrench.
Repeat process on other end, making sure hanger rod passes through hook on opposite end of bungee cord.

INSTALLATION & OPERATION

Locate feeder slots (feel for wider opening in interior slots of gunwales) located on either side of the center thwart or where feeder slots will provide access to desired position of footbrace. The IQ Footbrace is designed for use with stern or center seat of canoe.
If installing footbrace into feeder slot in front of where it will be used, use the following procedure:
- Fit bracket sewn to web strap to one end of spindle and insert assembly into feeder. Repeat on other side. End of assembly with webbing should always be positioned towards seat.
- Fit aluminum bracket holding hanger rod to opposite end of spindle and sliding complete assembly towards stern of canoe, feed assembly into slot. Repeat on other side.

If installing footbrace into slot behind where footbrace will be positioned:
- Fit aluminum bracket holding hanger rod to fitting on end of spindle and feed into slot. Repeat on other side.
- Slide assembly forward and mate the bracket on web strap to opposite end of spindle and insert into slot. Push forward to keep assembly in slot and repeat process on other side.

To move footbrace easily, lift footbrace cross bar to gunwale height. This will relieve contact between footbrace bracket and side of gunwale and will allow assembly to move easily along rail system.
Sit in seat and determine proper spacing and height for foot brace cross bar. Individual preference will vary but most common position is with knees slightly bent and feet in contact with bar just above the arch, across the ball of the foot. . It is not recommended that the bar be positioned so that your toes rest on it as this position allows too much room under the bar and could allow your legs to slip under should you get suddenly pitched forward. Go no higher than the ball of your foot.
To adjust footbrace height pull up or release webbing on either side of cross bar. Reach under the strap assembly and pull on bottom strap to tension webbing and then take up any slack generated by pulling webbing through the buckle. The D-ring at the buckle makes one hand adjustment or release easier but it will not lock webbing in place. To tighten webbing you must first pull on bottom strap and then take up slack at the buckle
To move footbrace, simply lift cross bar towards you and up to gunwale height. This will allow assembly to be moved closer or further away from seat to accommodate differing paddlers or demands.

NOTE: WE RECOMMEND ALL IQ MODULES BE REMOVED FROM GUNWALES PRIOR TO CARTOPPING YOUR CANOE TO PREVENT DAMAGE OR LOSS. However, we also recognize that with a footbrace it’s inconvenient to remove and to lose desired positioning. Included with the kit is a 1/8” bungee cord with hooks. When transporting an IQ canoe with footbrace in place, use bungee cord to secure in place. Loop one end of bungee cord around center of cross bar and pass other end over thwart and clip it to itself. Make sure bungee is taut enough to prevent the footbrace assembly from “walking” down the slot in the gunwale to point where it can reach a feeder slot and possibly fall out of gunwale.

The IQ Adjustable Tie-Downs are probably the most versatile accessory available for the IQ Gunwale System. Tie-Downs can be positioned just about anywhere on the canoe where most needed, in the internal or external gunwale slots, in slots on carry handles and thwarts, etc.

We’ve designed the Tie-Downs to accept either rope or webbing. The round hole in the face of the Tie-Down will accept up to ¼” or 6 mm cord. The half-moon cut-out will accommodate 1” webbing comfortably.

While the Tie-Down is primarily intended to serve as its’ name implies, it can also serve as a “brake” to prevent or minimize the movement of other modules as needed. Modules that potentially could benefit from a brake or stop would be the seats in certain situations or the Lash-In System. In most cases, a brake is not necessary but it’s good to know should it indeed be needed, there is a solution available.

Using the Tie-Downs
Loosen the set screw in top of tie-down by rotating thumb wheel. Align head of set screw with bar molded in top of tie-down. Insert tie-down into rail slot so that head of screw and bar fit inside slot. Move tie-down to desired position and tighten set screw by rotating thumb wheel in opposite direction. Set screw should be tightened periodically as it can work loose over time due to movement and vibrations.

NOTE: Adjustable Tie-Downs are built to withstand anticipated stress applied by loads normally carried in canoes. They are not intended for thigh strap anchors or for use in securing canoe to vehicles. Do not use Tie-Downs to secure gear in canoe while being cartopped. It is recommended that all IQ accessory modules be removed from canoe and transported inside your vehicle.

The Center Overbag/Wanigan addresses a number of purposes. Sized to fit and contain a Mini Split Center Flotation Bag, two Center Overbags can be installed “saddle-bag” style on either side of the center thwart. The “Wanigan” aspect of this piece comes into play as a convenient storage cell for gear and equipment. Half-moon zipper opens wide to insert and retrieve bulky items. Side carry handles allow loaded Center Overbag to be lifted from canoe and carried to campsite or vehicle without unloading. External mesh pocket provides convenient stowage for often needed items.

Once inserted into the IQ gunwale channels and strapped to the center thwart the Center Overbag/Wanigan effectively becomes part of the canoe. It won’t detach or come loose in the event of an upset, insuring that valuable and expensive gear won’t be lost. Installation is fast easy and reliable, taking less than half the time you’re used to spending lashing in dry bags and packs.

To extend the convenience and security of the Overbag concept to the ends of your canoe, check out our Tandem End Overbag.

The IQ Modular Gunwale System, simply ingenuity in motion.

1) Locate the entry slots in the interior gunwale on either side of the center thwart. Loosen “shoelace” style webbing on side of Overbag by squeezing cord lock.
2) Insert end of bolt rope closest to the IQ logo on top of pack into slot and repeat on other side.
3) Evenly pull both sides of pack along gunwale until bolt rope is fully engaged on both sides.
4) Feed end of each short strap around center thwart and through cam buckle on other end of strap. Pull tight and close buckle to lock strap around thwart.
5) Snug up Overbag by drawing taut shoe-lace line on side of Overbag. Making the top of Overbag taut provides easier operation of zipper and access to contents. It may be necessary to hold Overbag in position while cinching lacing tight.
6) Access gear by unzipping half-moon zipper in top panel. Often needed items can be stowed in the external mesh pocket on front of Overbag.
7) To remove Overbag, unbuckle straps on center thwart and feed bolt rope down through enty slots. Side handles are provided to allow a loaded Overbag to be hoisted from canoe without having to unload contents.

NOTE: IT IS REQUIRED THAT ALL IQ MODULES SUCH AS THE CENTER OVERBAG/WANIGAN BE REMOVED BEFORE CARTOPPING YOUR CANOE. Do not sit or stand on the Overbag and avoid placing heavy items on top of it as well.

NOTE: As with the addition of any outfitting component to a canoe, the possibility exists of increased risk of entrapment. Be aware of this possibility and practicing to minimize it is strongly recommended or better yet, eliminate the potential all together.

To Install Side Drapes: (6 piece system – 4 straight panels and 2 end panels)

Note that rope rail (part that slides into channel in gunwale) is segmented with gaps between sections. This is to allow panels to overlap each other to varying degrees depending upon length of boat.
Lay out 2 panels along one side of boat along with end panels to determine how many gaps you need to overlap to a) make sure hull is completely camouflaged and b) so that slack is not all piled up in one end or one piece.
Once spacing is determined, insert one end of straight panel into notch on exterior gunwale behind deck. Continue to feed rails into channel, pushing drape towards other end of boat.
When you reach point where you need to overlap sections, start first part of second section in interval between rope rail sections on first panel. Continue inserting flat panels until fully inserted.
Pull linked straight panels towards other end of canoe and pull needed number of rope rail segments out of gunwale channel to allow insert of end panel with proper overlap.
Once end panel is linked at other end, return to first end and install second end panel as determined by length of boat. Pull linked straight panels and end panel back towards original slot sufficiently to allow needed overlap to be installed at opposite end.
Repeat for opposite side.
Snug up end panels by adjusting Velcro straps passing over top of gunwales at each end.

To install Top Cover:

Unroll top cover next to canoe and determine which of two “cockpits” better align with seats in canoe.
Once oriented, simply drape cover onto canoe, securing it via Velcro strips sewn to underside of top cover with the Velcro running along top of side drapes.
“Cockpits” close up with simple drawstring/cordlock closures. They are not designed as paddlers’ cockpits but should be fully open when seat is occupied and fully closed when boat is on shore and shooters in blinds.

The IQ Flotation Overbags are designed to provide secure protected storage for your flotation bags. Two models, sized specifically for the Mad River Outrage and Outrage X, provide “glove-like” fit in your boats.

The Overbags key directly into the internal channels in the IQ Modular Gunwales System. This provides maximum security for your bags; no way they can be blown out of your boat.

The Overbags completely enclose your flotation, protecting your bags from abrasion, puncture, wear and tear, ultraviolet degradation, etc. Full coverage within the Overbag eliminates one of the most common reasons for flotation failure, the abrasion resulting from fabric contacting the lash lines securing the bag in the boat. Additionally the Flotation Overbags present a clean top surface minimizing the chance that your boat could get snagged or caught on river obstructions such as boulders and tree limbs.

The Flotation Overbags feature zipper access to provide easy installation and removal of your float bag, a hook and loop strap to secure painters and grab lines, and an internal mesh pocket to stow additional accessories.

Locate entry slots next to grab handles at end of boat intended for installation. Thread end of boltrope at wide end of bag into slot on each gunwale so that yellow fabric deck is even with gunwales.
Evenly slide boltrope into gunwales on each side until boltrope is completely inserted into gunwale.
Unzip zipper at wide end of Overbag. Insert partially inflated float bag into Overbag. Reach through slot at narrow end of Overbag and pull float bag up into nose of boat. Inflate flotation bag to proper pressure and secure by closing zipper.
To remove Overbag, access float bag and bleed off sufficient pressure to allow it to be compressed as assembly is pulled through slots in gunwale next to carry handle.

NOTE: IT IS RECOMMENDED TO REMOVE ALL IQ MODULES FROM GUNWALE SYSTEM WHEN CARTOPPING TO PREVENT LOSS OR DAMAGE. MANY FLOTATION BAGS SUFFER UNNECESSARY ABRASION DUE TO BEING SUBJECTED TO HIGH WINDS AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. REMOVING THE OVERBAG AND FLOTATION WHEN TRAVELLING LONG DISTANCES AT HIGH SPEEDS WILL EXTEND THE USABLE LIFE OF YOUR BAGS.

The Glove Box is designed to provide convenient protected storage near at hand and readily accessible. Compact design allows it to be positioned just about anywhere along the IQ Gunwale System yet provides considerable storage capacity.

The Glove Box is also designed to fit between the legs on sides of conventional canoe seats. You don’t have to paddle an IQ canoe to enjoy the benefits of convenient, hard shell protective storage for oft needed items.

Installation of Glove Box in IQ outfitted canoes:

Determine desired location and entry slot that will allow access to that section of gunwale. On most IQ canoes there are internal entry slots at each carry handle and on either side of the center thwart.
Guide the rope rail on back of Glove Box into slot and slide to desired location.
It is recommended that the Glove Box be removed from canoe when transporting on vehicle.

Installation and use of Glove Box with conventional canoe seats:

Glove Box requires 4” of clearance between side of seat and side of hull. It will not fit all seat positions, depending upon width of seat and narrowness of hull.
Glove Box will drop between seat frame, resting on side flanges towards top of base of Glove Box.
On back of Glove Box are attached two cable eyes to allow you to secure Glove Box to seat frame using cord or bungee (not supplied) and running from one cable eye under seat frame and back to other cable eye.
It is recommended that the Glove Box be removed from canoe when transporting on vehicle.

NOTE: The Glove Box is not designed to provide waterproof storage. Do not store unprotected moisture-sensitive items such as cameras, GPS, cell phones, etc. unless further protected in a specific watertight storage system.

The IQ Flotation/Gear Lash In System is designed to provide a convenient, secure means to attach flotation bags or any gear or equipment you would like to your canoe. Installation requires no permanent modification to your canoe, no drilling, no mounting of hardware and the system is easily and quickly removed when not necessary or desired. The system can also be positioned wherever desired in the canoe: the bow, center or stern. This versatility is the cornerstone of Mad River’s IQ Gunwale System.

Instructions:

Insert rounded bead on Lash In System into interior slot of gunwale. Entry slots are positioned on either side of the center thwart behind the bow deck, and in front of stern deck. A Spreader Tool is available should you wish to install additional entry slots into the rail system for a specific application. Slide the lash in system to desired location. There are evenly spaced lash loops sewn to the system to secure gear or flotation bags.

The Lash In System can be easily cut to shorter lengths if desired. Cut with sharp knife or scissors and then seal the edge of cut fabric with flame to prevent unravelling. Seal the end of the bolt rope as well, making sure that any melted edges are smoothed and flush with diameter of boltrope to enable boltrope to slide easily into slot in IQ gunwale.

To remove, simply pull system towards nearest exit slot and pull out of gunwale.

NOTE: ALL IQ MODULES SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM CANOE WHEN CARTOPPING TO PREVENT DAMAGE OR LOSS.

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to one of the most innovative developments to come to canoeing in years, the Mad River IQ Modular Gunwale System. The benefits of the IQ are many. All seats can be moved and positioned for optimum trim no matter the size of the paddlers. Seats are not permanently positioned so that they can be moved for best trim as your paddling partners change, from trip to trip or even from morning to afternoon. Seats can also be positioned to best respond to the changing conditions encountered while paddling. Position for level trim when paddling calm waters, move seats to stern to lighten bow and enhance the canoe’s performance on rivers or when paddling downwind. Move seats forward to lower the bow for upwind work; it’s all possible and easy to do with the IQ.

Additionally, the IQ System will be complemented by a growing range of interchangeable modular accessories that can be added when needed or desired and removed when type of paddling changes. You can rig the boat for whitewater paddling one day, bring it home and set it up for a week long camping trip the next. The beauty of it all is that nothing is permanently installed, no longer do you have to haul permanent whitewater outfitting along on casual outings or annual canoe trips. Want a boat that can be paddled solo or tandem? Before IQ, the only way to go was to have three seats in the boat, adding weight and clutter. With the IQ, you remove one seat and slide the other to center; the result is a lighter, more responsive canoe that can be retrofitted for tandem use in less than 5 minutes.

HISTORY

History of a concept that’s been two years in development is perhaps a bit grandiose but a little insight into where the IQ came from helps with perspective. The IQ is truly the result of a group effort, no one individual came up with the idea and brought it full fleshed to the point you see it now. There’s a certain beauty in it being a group effort. Paddlers with whitewater play backgrounds joined with expedition trippers, with recreational day paddlers, with sportsmen, and even non-paddlers to create a system that offers significant advantages to however you choose to use your canoe.

The canoe is undoubtedly the most versatile watercraft afloat. The IQ exploits that inherent versatility and allows you to tailor outfitting to use or conditions. Another exciting part of the system is that it’s so open ended. We’ve just begun rolling out accessory modules to complement the gunwale system. For everyone we bring to market, another two or three ideas come to mind. The nice thing about it all is that your IQ canoe will be able to accept and use all those accessory modules that have yet to get off the drawing board. It won’t become obsolete.

So, welcome aboard. The purpose of this manual is to help you make the most of your IQ canoe. As we’ve come to say around the shop, “The IQ, just think about it.” The possibilities are nearly endless. We’re not too proud to think we’re the only ones capable of coming up with new modular concepts. Feel free to get in touch with us with your ideas. It’s that exciting and intriguing.

GETTING TO KNOW THE IQ

At first glance, the IQ may look like any other vinyl or aluminum gunwale system. Take a few moments to learn why it’s so different and the potentials it offers.

The elaborate internal structure of the IQ gunwale provides the strength necessary for use in whitewater or expeditionary paddling unlike most aluminum gunwales.
Feel along the lower parts of the inwale and outwale and locate the slots that are the heart of the system. They run end to end, from deck to deck. Each channel is independent of the other, you can insert one module in the internal channel and another in the exterior.

FASTENERS

The gunwale is fastened to the hull via hidden self-tapping square drive screws. A cover sleeve runs along the outside of the gunwales concealing the fasteners and also providing a softer bumper to minimize bumps or dents as well as providing a clean look to the system.

FEEDER SLOTS

As you run your hands along the slots you’ll encounter a number of spaced openings or “feeders.” These feeders are placed to allow you to add or remove components or modules. Along the inwale slot you’ll find pairs of feeders behind the bow deck, on either side of the center thwart, and in front of the stern deck. On boats with a second or “tripping” thwart, you’ll find additional feeders on the stern side of that thwart. Along the outwale slot, you’ll find feeders behind the bow deck and in front of the stern deck. All told there are 6 to 10 feeders on the inwale and 4 feeders on the outwale.

Once you have used your IQ for while, you may find you’d like additional slots installed for particular purposes. We have available a Spreader Tool that will allow you to customize your system. Contact your local dealer or log on to www.madrivercanoe.com to find out how best to acquire a Spreader.

NOTE: The center thwart and carry handles are also slotted. However, these slots cannot be opened as a more rigid aluminum was chosen for the cross pieces for added strength and rigidity. Do not attempt to bend a slot into cross members as this can result in fracturing edges of the slot. The slot in the thwart was designed to accommodate the Adjustable Tie Downs (#62-02290) and future modules.

The thwart(s) or carry handles are not designed to be movable as this could distort the hull and cause damage. Movement of any thwart or carry handle will void your Lifetime Warranty.

While the IQ System is relatively “tool free,” having both a Phillips head and a flat head screwdriver and pliers handy will be helpful.

GETTING SETTLED IN THE SEATS

The IQ seats are buckets to provide maximum security of position and comfort. Not only are they adjustable fore and aft but can be positioned for height, from side to side or centered, and for rake (angle of seat front to back). Proper trim not only improves the efficiency of your canoe and the ease of paddling but provides a much safer, more stable boat as well. Trimming a canoe towards level places maximum hull in the water for added stability.

ADJUSTING SEAT FOR HEIGHT

One of the subtle advantages built into the IQ is the ability to adjust your seat height. Higher positions enhance paddling efficiency and are favored by experienced paddlers or in exceptionally stable canoes. Lower positions improve stability, security, and parent’s peace of mind as children can be settled deeper in the canoe and less likely to tumble overboard. Lower seat height is often an advantage when paddling whitewater or in turbulent conditions. A nice thing about the IQ is you can have the best of both worlds by adjusting seat height to suit impending conditions, however quickly they may change. You’re not stuck with one position that can become increasingly uncomfortable as you pile up the hours paddling.

Start with the seats in the lowest position. Sit in the canoe and get a feel for this position. Given the ease with which you can change seat height, it makes sense to take the canoe out and paddle for a real test before making any further adjustments. Bear in mind with the IQ, nothing is permanent, it can all be changed, shifted, moved, added, removed, etc., etc., etc.
To change seat height, locate the two wingnuts securing the straps looping around the crossbar behind the seat. Loosen the wingnuts and remove wingnut, washer, and spacer and set carefully aside. Remove bolt through seatback. Raise or lower seat to desired position, aligning holes in seat back with holes in ends of straps looping over cross bar. There are four alternative heights. Insert bolt through seat back and through holes in both ends of strap. Push spacer and then washer over end of bolt and secure with wingnut. When IQ is new, the straps may be quite stiff and pinching ends together with pliers may making threading bolt in position easier. Tighten securely.

CENTERING OR SETTING SEAT TOWARDS ONE SIDE

The IQ also allows you to position a seat in center of canoe or to one side or another to favor a personal paddling “side.” Solo paddlers or teams with preferred sides most appreciate this feature as it allows for maximum paddling comfort and efficiency, reducing the side extension necessary to put paddle in the water efficiently.

To adjust side to side position of seat, loosen wingnuts under stern crossbar. Do not remove completely. Reach under bar and shake the spacer and strap to relieve tension. Lift seat slightly and slide to desired position. Tighten wing nuts to secure and adjust front webbing tension as necessary.

MOVING THE SEATS FORE AND AFT

One of the most apparent advantages of the IQ system is the ability to move the seats for best trim. The ability to accommodate differing paddling teams with the IQ is unique. The IQ even makes the trial and error process of determining the best trim for your personal use a lot easier. Never before have paddlers been able to readily adjust the trim of their canoe to account for varying paddlers and gear as well as the ever changing conditions you can expect to encounter.

To move seats towards a wider section of the canoe, first loosen webbing suspending front of seat. Pushing equally on each side of crossbar move seat towards desired position, depressing the lock button in bar as canoe widens. Position seat so that lock button extends through hole in bar.
Adjust tension on front web straps as desired to restore rake angle of seat.

To move seats towards a narrower section of the canoe, push equally on each side of crossbar, depressing button as needed to allow tubes to contract. Choose seat position that allows locking button to extend through hole in cross bar. It will be necessary to snug up the web straps at front of seat to adjust rake angle.

ADJUSTING SEAT FOR RAKE

With the IQ system, the angle of the seat front to back is adjustable. This provides added positional security for the paddler and capability to change amount and position of thigh support, a much appreciated advantage by long distance paddlers.

To adjust the rake of the seat, loosen the webbing strap that runs from one gunwale through seat to opposite gunwale. Sit in seat and test position. To raise front of seat, get your weight off of seat and tighten webbing, pulling front of seat up. Test position and if satisfied, you’re done. With the IQ system, it’s easy to fine tune or re-adjust position at any time.

Being able to adjust the rake of the seat allows the seat to double as a kneeling thwart when front is lowered. One of the biggest safety advantages offered by the IQ is the free swinging seat front. As the seat is suspended by webbing it easily kicks up, minimizing the entrapment hazard posed by feet trapped under rigid seat frames.

As seats are moved in the canoe, it will be sometimes necessary to also adjust tension on web strap to maintain desired rake angle as seat moves to a narrower or wider section of canoe.

SECURING SEAT POSITION

In most cases, the paddler’s weight is sufficient to hold the seat in selected position. However, if you’re anticipating some very active paddling such as working your way down a stretch of whitewater or twisting your way down a swamp river with tight turns and blowdowns, you may want to consider locking the seat in position.

This is easily done using the Adjustable TieDowns (#62-02290). Sold as a set of four, insert a TieDown in the slot behind and/or in front of the seat assembly and tighten in place. Generally, a pair of tiedowns will secure one seat.

ADDING AND REMOVING SEATS

An exclusive IQ advantage is the ability to add a third seat for passenger or added paddler or to remove an unneeded seat.

The seat assembly is suspended from the inwale slot by a tube over tube crossbar behind the seat and web straps at the front of the seat. Linking these is a spindle that slides within the slot. Each end of the spindle is shaped to receive and connect with the molded tabs securing the webbing and the brackets supporting the crossbar. The spindle keeps the seat centered side to side and limits the possibility of the seat getting crooked in the canoe.

To add a seat, locate the feeder slots on the same side of the center thwart that you want to place the seat. For a seat forward of the center thwart, you will insert the front end of seat assembly first. For seat aft of thwart, the end of assembly with cross bar will be inserted first.

To add a seat aft of center, examine spindle. At each end you’ll find a 3” flattened section. This section will mate with fittings suspending the seat. Before attempting installation of seat, test fit these pieces together to understand how they work.

Open the stern cross bar sufficiently to allow it to span the width of canoe at feeder slot. Position seat so that it is oriented properly and sitting in bottom of canoe. Mate the bracket on one side of cross bar and fitting on end of spindle and insert into one feeder slot. Push assembly back just far enough to clear the feeder slot and then repeat on other side to suspend stern of seat.

Mate the tab holding the webbing with the fitting on other of end of spindle and feed the spindle into the slot until the tab and fitting slide up and into slot. Repeat with other side.

Using equal pressure on each side, slide the seat assembly towards desired position. It may be necessary to depress the locking button in the cross tube to allow seat to move to desired position. Once in position, make sure the locking button is engaged in one of the holes of the cross tube.

To install a seat forward of center, use the slots in front of center thwart and follow the above procedure, starting with the tab securing the webbing and finish with the bracket holding the cross tube.

NOTE: When using an IQ seat, it is critical that the locking button be fully engaged in a hole on the seat cross tube. The button must be visible. Failure to do so can create excessive seat movement or bending of the cross tube.

When positioning a seat in the center of the canoe make sure to leave adequate room between seat and center thwart to allow for easy escape should it be necessary. Entrapment under the center thwart can occur if seat is to close to thwart. It is recommended you position seat no closer than 20 to 24” to the center thwart.

To remove a seat, slide seat assembly towards appropriate feeder slot. Take flat head screwdriver or point of knife or similar object and use to guide end of spindle down and out the feeder slot. Left to its’ own devices the spindle is designed to stay up in the slot and will just slide by the feeder.

Pry the head of the spindle out the feeder slot and pull out gently until the spindle and either bracket or tab can be separated and then repeat procedure on other side. Once both sides are released from slot proceed to remove the rest of spindle and assembly at opposite end. Be careful to remove spindle when removing fittings as it can be difficult to retrieve the spindle from the slot.

It may be helpful to wiggle and lift or lower assembly to increase its’ chances of coming free of the slot. Avoid forcing seat assembly out of slot as this can result in breakage of the connecting spindle.

IQ/IQ2 ACCESSORY MODULES

The process of developing IQ and IQ2 modular accessories is a happily never ending process. We will continually be expanding the available options or “modules.” For more information on existing modules and to keep tabs on additional modules, we suggest you log on to www.madrivercanoe.com.

REMOVABLE YOKE

Padded and contoured and connects right into holes pre-drilled in the center thwart on IQ models and can easily be fitted to center yoke on IQ2 by drilling two ¼” holes. A contoured aluminum frame supports a dense neoprene-covered foam pad, adding both comfort and stability to your carry. Yoke is secured by wing nuts and can easily be fitted to canoes with conventional wood yoke. Anodized aluminum frame with corrosion resistant fittings.

SPRAYSHIELD - TANDEM

Like a kayak miniskirt the Sprayshield extends over bow (or stern) of canoe, protecting paddlers from spray or wave and can serve to protect bow paddler’s legs from sun as well. Keys into outwale slot and cone-like profile deflects water overboard rather than into paddler’s lap. Multiple stays hold shape and keep it from draping down onto paddler’s legs. Semi-collapsible so it can be pushed out of way when not needed. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover. Great way to paddle dry when crossing a lake with the chop kicking up. Not intended for use in Class III or above whitewater. 36” long x 33” wide.

SPRAYSHIELD – SHORT TANDEM

Designed for shorter tandem canoes such as Adventure 14 or for stern of 15’ or longer canoes. Similar construction to Tandem Sprayshield in a more compact length. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover.Not intended for use in Class III or above whitewater. 28” long x 32” wide.

SPRAYSHIELD – SOLO

We’ve taken the tandem sprayshield and extended it for center-seated solo use. Long enough to cover gear and reduce windage, making paddling easier and more efficient. Can be installed on bow or stern of solo canoes. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover. 46” long x 33” wide.
Fits: Royalex Freedom Solo, Horizon 15

BELLY COVER

Covers center of tandem boats, protecting from waves, spray, and sun. Hoop stays elevate cover to keep from pooling water, also provides a shady nook for napping pre-school paddlers. Can be slid forward or back as needed, providing some sun protection for stern paddlers and protecting valuable gear wherever it might be stowed. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover. Not intended for Class III or above whitewater.

FLOTATION/GEAR OVERBAG – OUTRAGE/OUTRAGE X

Keys into inwale slot and provides protected enclosed storage and lash-in for flotation bags and/or dry bags. Nylon oxford deck is smooth and snag-free – no lashing to catch on obstacles. Mesh sides, base, and back allow easy drainage. Eliminates necessity of installing permanent lash systems in canoe or drilling holes in gunwales or hull. Zippered rear entry provides easy access. Internal mesh pocket keeps gear like throw bags, water bottles, etc. secure yet readily available. Does a great job protecting float bags from hazards of highway travel too. Yellow deck with black mesh. Specific bag for each model Outrage.

GEAR/FLOTATION OVERBAG – TANDEM END BAG

Two piece zippered installation goes in and out easy. Long axis zipper allows for insertion of up to 36” end bag or for assorted gear and equipment. Coated top deck resists splash and spray, mesh sides and base won’t collect water. External mesh pocket keeps often needed items close at hand. Great way to use often ignored storage space. Overbag and contents are integrated securely into boat, can’t wash out should something go wrong. Fits in bow or stern of IQ boats. Black deck with black mesh.

GEAR/FLOTATION OVERBAG/WANIGAN – CENTER

Inspired by the old rigid Wanigan canoe boxes, the Center Overbag slots into IQ gunwales at center of hull. Adjustable rope rail system allows use in boats of varying widths and ability to keep bag tensioned to avoid pooling of water. Half-moon zipper allows easy in and out of bulky gear from mini split center float bags to a weekend or more worth of gear. Lash straps secure bag to center thwart and combined with IQ attachment make it virtually impossible to have Overbag separate from canoe unless you want it to, then it’s fast and easy. Overbags can be offset to allow doubling up, one bag on each side of thwart. External mesh pocket for easy access to frequently needed items. Coated fabric deck resists spray and splash, mesh base and sides won’t trap water. Linked side carry handles make it easy to haul loaded bag from vehicle to canoe or canoe to campsite and in one easy trip to boot. Black deck with black mesh.

FLOTATION/GEAR LASH IN SYSTEM

Spaced web loops sewn to slot-fitting “rope” make it easy to secure float bags or gear in your canoe. Each 56” length has 6 tie-in sewn loops. Can fit in center of boat or in bow or stern. Can be trimmed to length for smaller areas. Sold in pairs.

ZIPPERED CHINE DRY BAG

Dry bag sewn to slot-fitting “rope” with waterproof zipper provides bomb-proof dry and secure storage for valued gear. Keeps equipment much more accessible than when tumbled in a pile in center of canoe. Long zipper on a 40” long x 6.5” tall bag easily swallows long awkward items. Rope rail keeps bag secure in canoe and prevents loss. External lashing points to secure bulky items like paddles or tripods. Can be positioned or moved just about anywhere in canoe, on either side amidships or in front of paddlers for even faster access to gear. Yellow.

WORK STATION

Unique accessory that provides a stable hard surface to fix lunch, organize fishing lines, tie lures or flies, study maps and plot courses. Molded box is suspended on two tube over tube poles and can be pulled towards you when needed or pushed away when not. Can be oriented in two directions and set up in choice of two heights. Lid has molded in cup holders and slot to hold tools, pencils, markers, etc. Top is secured to base with bungee cords. Box measures 8” deep x 12.5” x 14.25”. Complete with suspension poles and hardware.

GLOVE BOX

Handy, personal-sized storage box that slides along inwale slot and keeps often needed items such as sun screen, bug repellant, etc. close at hand. Glove Box measures 6” deep x 4” x 6.5” and is tapered to also fit between the side arms of conventional wood/cane seats.

ADJUSTABLE TIE DOWNS

In its’ own way, perhaps the most exciting of IQ Modules, the adjustable tie downs can be positioned anywhere on the inwale slots or on carry handles or thwarts to provide handy anchor points to secure gear. The Tie Downs lock into the slot with a screw controlled by a thumb knob and are milled to accept rope up to.25”/6 mm in diameter or 1”/2.5mm webbing. Will secure large or small items and can also serve as brakes to firmly secure seat positioning when actively paddling. Set of 4.

SOFT BACKREST W/SEATPAD

Canoeists have long envied the flexible backrests available for sit-on-top kayaks. With the IQ, you can become the envy of your paddling friends. Low profile wraparound adjustable backrest is designed to allow for comfortable paddling in all but most arduous conditions yet provide blissful support when floating about your favorite fishing hole. Secures to seat and to inwale slot in gunwale.

SPREADER TOOL

Essential for those wanting to further customize their IQ system. Slotted tool grabs edge of slot and simple bending motion opens up slot to allow accessories to be fed into place. Tool opens a smooth 3” slot in rail with no sharp edges to snag fingers or fittings. Use on slots in gunwales, not designed to open slots in carry handles or thwarts.

CARE & MAINTENANCE OF THE IQ GUNWALE

As there are few moving parts, there is little required maintenance on the IQ system. As with any other piece of performance equipment, keeping it clean will enhance its’ ease of use and longevity.

Periodically rinse both inwale and outwale slots by setting boat on side and flushing with water from center so that water and debris flow towards ends. Removal of the decks will allow greater flow. Rinse gunwales after use in salt water or whenever you find the sliders or rope binding or encountering obstructions.

Should slot be dented or otherwise bind movement, use of spreader tool to bend slot to proper alignment will usually solve the problem. Pliers can be used but care must be taken to bend the gunwale slowly and evenly to eliminate sharp edges.

The IQ gunwales and cross members are anodized for protection against weather, scratches and abrasion. No surface coating will eliminate all bumps and bangs. Touch up scratches with flat black enamel paint.

Access to the fasteners securing the gunwales to the hull is obtained by first removing the decks. Reach under the deck and remove the clips securing through bolts. Withdraw bolts and pull decks forward to remove. With pliers grasp end of cover sleeve and pull smoothly to remove sleeve. A square drive fitting will be required to remove fasteners.

TRANSPORTING THE IQ

It is recommended that all modules be removed from canoe while cartopping. Certain modules such as the sprayshields, belly cover, work station, glove box will affect how your canoe fits on your rack bars and must be removed. If you choose to travel with any modules in place it is essential that you secure them in place with the Adjustable Tie Downs and recommended that they be tethered for maximum security. This is necessary to prevent them from moving due to windage and vibration and reaching a feeder slot and perhaps dropping free. Check seats to make sure that they can not reach a feeder slot. Normal tandem positions are usually safe, as cross bar (with lock button engaged) will limit possible movement sufficiently. If you have positioned a seat near center, it should be secured or removed or at very least, moved to position where it’s not able to match up to a slot.

With seats positioned in any but the lowest settings the seat back extends above the gunwales. Be aware of this when cartopping, especially if you load from the end of your vehicle rather than the side as the raised seat back may hit your roof bar. When loading from side, make sure seat backs don’t hit roof bars. Check also to make sure that adequate clearance is provided to eliminate possibility of raised seat back contacting vehicle roof.

WARRANTY

Like all Mad River Canoe products, the IQ Gunwale System and accessory modules are covered by our Lifetime Warranty. Basically, if you ever experience failure attributable to defective materials or workmanship, we will repair or replace it at no charge. Damage due to abuse, modification or improper use and wear and tear are not covered. Warranty consideration may entail shipping your boat or damaged part to Trinity, NC at your expense. Mad River will provide return transportation. For warranty information call Mad River Customer Service (8-5 Eastern time, M-F) at 800/311-7245 or contact us by email at [email protected]

FURTHER HELP, QUESTIONS, SUGGESTIONS, IDEAS?
Please call Mad River Customer Service (8-5 Eastern time, M-F) at 800/311-7245 or contact us by email at [email protected]. We welcome any feedback that contributes to improving what we think is already something special.

the IQ………………
……….. think about it!

The IQ Portage Yoke is designed to provide both comfort and control on the portage trail. Thick closed cell foam cushions the shoulders and 3D curved profile keeps canoe balanced on your shoulders as you negotiate hilly carries and rough uneven terrain.

The IQ Portage Yoke fits right into the holes drilled in the center thwart of Mad River IQ Gunwaled canoes. It can also be installed on canoes with conventional shaped flat yokes.

Yoke Assembly

Peel open yoke cover hook and loop at back of yoke and slide cover off yoke until holes in pad are exposed.
Determine desired hole location. The holes nearest the neck cradle are designed for use with a shaped or contoured yoke. The holes nearest the back of the yoke are intended for use with a straight thwart or an IQ thwart
Thread mounting bolts into selected holes. Once bolts are about halfway seated in hole, pull cover back over bolt head and over end of bolt. You can turn the bolt easily with your hand on the threaded end. Normally no screwdriver is required to tighten the bolts.

For installation on Mad River Canoes with the IQ Modular Gunwale System:

Pry up and properly discard rubber plugs sealing holes in IQ thwart.
Unscrew wing nuts on base of yoke.
Position mounting bolts in forward set of holes (those closest to neck cut-out).
Align bolts with holes in thwart and insert.
Secure yoke with flat washer followed by wing nuts.
Periodically tighten wing nuts for maximum security.

For installation on canoes with conventional flat wooden yokes:

Locate and mark center of yoke.
Measure 5.75”/14.6 cm to either side of center point and draw line across flat face of yoke.
Centering IQ yoke over wood yoke use pencil to mark location of rearmost pair of holes in IQ yoke along the lines drawn in previous step. Make sure that the IQ yoke is properly aligned with the contours of the wood yoke.
Drill 5/16”/76mm hole at each mark.
With mounting bolts inserted in rearmost holes place IQ yoke in position over wood yoke and insert bolts through holes and secure with flat washer followed by wing nuts.

The IQ Seat Pad and Back Rest is designed not only to improve your paddling comfort but performance as well. Contoured backrest conforms to your lower back providing rigidity and support, improving efficiency and lessening fatigue.

The IQ Seat Pad and Back Rest is easily and quickly installed and removed. Lash loops secure seat in position and our Adjustable Tie Downs key into gunwale channels to stabilize and lock seat pad into place.

Low profile back rest and straps are designed not to interfere with paddle strokes.

Installation Instructions:

Loosen all straps on seat/backrest.
“Open” hook and loop straps on bottom of seat pad.
Relax strap threaded across front of IQ canoe seat and insert one side of hook and loop strap between seat and seat strap at each position where seat strap shows on seat.
Secure hook and loop straps around seat strap and re-tighten seat strap to desired seat position.
Identify straps extending off each end of backrest. Make sure straps are not twisted and insert adjustable tie down into internal channel on each gunwale, forward of seat. Spin knob on tie down to secure in place in channel.
Identify straps attached to back of backrest. Make sure straps are not twisted and insert adjustable tie downs into internal channel on each gunwale behind seat. Spin knob on tie down to secure in place in channel.
Tension straps running to rear of seat so that backrest is snug against rear of seat.
Sit in seat and adjust forward straps to desired tension against your back. It may be necessary to adjust position of tie downs and re-adjust rear straps to allow you to achieve desired positioning.
To remove unit, spin knobs on tie downs to release them from channels, relax strap at front of seat to allow release of hook and loop straps on bottom of seat pad and remove unit.

NOTE: The hook and loop straps used to secure the backrest to the seat provide extraordinary grip but they are fragile. Do not try to remove backrest by simply pulling up on seat as this will likely cause straps to tear. Lift edge of seat and reach under to peel the straps free of the seat strap.

NOTE: Removal of all IQ accessory modules is recommended before cartopping canoe, particularly for long distances or high speeds. This will minimize wear on your IQ accessories.

The Tandem End Overbag is designed for multiple purposes. One is to provide a secure and protected lashing “system” for a tandem (30-36”) end bag. Another is to offer a secure storage area for gear conveniently close at hand in the ends of the canoe. The ends of the canoe are often unutilized when rigging a boat for camping or expeditions. With the Tandem End Overbag you can put this heretofore unused space to good use. The storage is protected and securely attached to the canoe via the channels in the interior gunwale.

The Tandem End Overbag features a long axis zipper for easy access and retrieval of gear; convenient carry handle at wide end of bag; external mesh pocket with security clip; separating zipper installation system that allows a full bag to be removed from the canoe without unloading or deflating a flotation bag.

To extend the convenience and security of the Overbag concept to the center of your canoe, check out our Center Overbag/Wanigan.

The IQ Modular Gunwale System, simply ingenuity in motion.

The Tandem Overbag comes in two parts. There is the cover with boltrope sewn to one side and a second length of bolt rope to which zipper has been sewn. The boltrope is sized so that the round bead fits into the slot on the outside of the IQ Gunwale.
There is a widened slot in each interior gunwale just behind the carry handle to allow the boltrope to be inserted.
From bow of canoe, slide boltrope with zipper into outside channel on starboard (right) side of hull. First insert end with red dot and slide boltrope completely into channel.
Insert bolt rope attached to cover into outside channel on port (left) side of canoe, making sure to start with end of cover with red dot. Insert full length of boltrope into channel.
Mate the zipper starters and zip parts together.
Once cover is fully zipped, slide Overbag along gunwales until narrow end is even or close to carry handle. Loop strap at end of Overbag under carry handle. Take end of strap with cam buckle and position on top of carry handle.
Thread strap through cam buckle and close buckle to secure strap
To access contents, unzip zipper on top of Overbag enough to allow access to desired gear.
To remove Overbag, simply unzip separating zipper and pull parts forward and down through entry slot.

NOTE: IT IS REQUIRED THAT ALL IQ MODULES SUCH AS THE TANDEM END OVERBAG BE REMOVED BEFORE CARTOPPING YOUR CANOE. Do not sit or stand on the Tandem End Overbag and avoid placing heavy items on top of it as well.

NOTE: While Overbag does not have to be removed while portaging your canoe, be aware that it will increase weight of burden being portaged and will affect balance of canoe.

The IQ Work Station is designed to provide a versatile and functional hard “work” surface to make your paddling all the more pleasurable and productive. Whether it be stripping line, putting a new fly on your line, flipping through a birder’s guide confirming a new sighting, or simply making a floating lunch, the Work Station provides a rigid and secure surface on which to be productive. The Work Station provides a handy, readily-accessible storage space for often needed items.

The Work Station is designed so that it can be oriented either wide or narrow side towards you. The wide side provides a larger work area while the narrower orientation provides for comfortable paddling. One of the nicest things about the Work Station is the fact that you can slide it out of your way when not needed and then pull it back to your lap when you need it. The whole time it is entirely secured in the canoe.

The Work Station is the base module for a new generation of IQ modules to come. We’ve got cooler inserts, organizers, tool boxes, etc. on the drawing board. We’re always open to any ideas or inspiration.

Assembly and Installation:

The suspension system consists of two tube over tube cross bars secured by a push button, four gunwale brackets to connect tubes to gunwales, and an adjustable bungee cord tie-in system.
Insert button into smaller diameter inner tube so that it pops out of one of the holes. Align holes in tubes and insert smaller tube into larger until button pops through outer tube.
Take gunwale bracket so that flange on back side points down and attach to wider tube by inserting screw down through top of bracket, through hole in tube and bottom of bracket and secure with washer and nut. Repeat for wide end of other tube assembly.
At narrow end of tube assembly, follow same procedure but slip a white washer between tube and inside of bracket and capture with screw to absorb any slack or rattle. Repeat for other tube.
Once brackets are attached to tubes they do not have to be removed to adjust work station.
Select desired orientation of work station. Running tubes under curve along long side of station will provide a wider and lower working surface. Placing tubes along narrower side positions station in a narrower and higher orientation. The system is designed to allow as easy as possible interchange of positioning as possible.
Determine desired location of station in canoe. If mounting station in front of stern seat, insert each frame assembly into slot behind center thwart. If desired position is in front of thwart, use slot in front of thwart. (Note: bow of canoe is too narrow to allow installation of work station.) Position brackets so that flange keying into gunwale slot angles down. By depressing button, move thwarts to approximate location desired.
Orient box as desired and drop over frames so that tubes run along curved sections of base of box. To orient box narrower end towards you (also a lower mounting position), tubes should run under flange near top of box bottom. To position box wider and higher, align tubes with curved sections at base of box.
Take bungee cord attached to work station at choice of location and loop under tube and hook over hook eye bolted to side of work station to hold tube against surface of work station. Repeat on opposite side.
To re-orient work station, release the bungee cord securing station to tubes and change position of box. Re-secure the bungee cord.

IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT WORK STATION BE REMOVED FROM CANOE WHEN TRANSPORTING CANOE ON ANY VEHICLE.

NOTE: The IQ Work Station is not designed for waterproof storage. DO NOT STORE UNPROTECTED ELECTRONIC OR OTHER MOISTURE-SENSITIVE EQUIPMENT IN WORK STATION UNLESS THEY ARE PROTECTED IN A WATER TIGHT PROTECTION SYSTEM.

NOTE: Any added outfitting placed in a canoe can increase the danger of entrapment. Make sure that you are aware of the potential and have escape planned should this danger occur. NEVER INSTALL ANY OUTFITTING THAT LIMITS YOUR ABILITY TO ESCAPE FROM A CANOE IN AN EMERGENCY.

The IQ Zippered Chine Dry Bag is designed to provide a waterproof bat with easy zippered access and fitted to the IQ gunwale system for maximum security. The waterproof zipper provides very reliable watertight protection and is easier to operate compared to a roll down style dry bag.

Secured to the IQ gunwale system means you won’t have to worry about your bag floating loose on the river, particularly should your canoe capsize and make its’ own way downriver. Besides peace of mind, there’s also a high dose of convenience involved. The Chine Dry Bag sits up close to the gunwale and allows you to access contents without having to wrestle your way through your packs. It’s right where you need when you need it.

Long axis zipper allows you to protect long items such as tripods. The length gives you a wide enough opening to provide easy insertion of bulky gear. Exterior webbing loops are provided to allow you to secure items such as spare paddles, fishing poles, etc. that can tolerate getting wet.

Locate entry slot nearest desired location on the interior slot of each gunwale.
Make sure that the zipper is facng away from side of hull and feed one end of boltrope into slot.
Continue until full length of boltrope is captured in slot and move to desired position.
Zipper will be stiff in operation initially. For best results, hold end of bag nearest head of zipper and pull gently against zipper as it is opened. When closing, hold opposite end of bag to provide resistance to zipper head as it pulled to seal access. Make sure head of zipper is fully seated to ensure watertight performance.

NOTE: REMOVE ALL IQ MODULES FROM GUNWALE SYSTEM WHEN CARTOPPING TO PREVENT LOSS OR DAMAGE.

When ordering replacement IQ2 gunwale be sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

Canoes are measured straight down the keel line. Gunwales take a bit more circuitous route getting from end to end. IQ2 rails come in two sizes: under 15’ and over 15” (fits up to 17 ½’). All Mad River IQ2 gunwales include a "L" shaped aluminum insert to add strength and structure to the rail.
IQ2 gunwales will not fit Composite canoes.
Place orders for replacement gunwales through your authorized Mad River dealer.

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

This will assist your dealer and Mad River Customer Service to make sure you receive the proper gunwale. If you are unsure of model or material, bring your boat to the dealer; they can usually identify the model and material. If this is not practical, the serial number on your canoe will be helpful. Serial numbers are located on the right side of the stern of the hull just below the gunwale. It will either be engraved on a small brass plate or stamped directly into the hull. If difficult to read, make a rubbing by holding a piece of paper against hull and scraping a pencil point across paper. The number should be revealed on reverse side of paper.

A complete re-rail installation will require 2 IQ2 gunwales.

Unlike ash gunwales which utilize an inside rail and an outside rail on each side, IQ2 gunwales are a uni-body construction in which the inside and outside gunwales are molded in one piece. Gunwales are pre-bent to a curved form, which will fit most canoes. If your canoe hull doesn’t fit to the gunwales easily you may find it necessary to further bend the gunwale to fit without distorting your hull. Make any needed bends slow and gradual working up and down affected length of gunwale. Avoid creasing gunwale by bending too quickly or sharply or with all effort at
one point.

Gunwales are interchangeable, there is no right or left.

IQ2 gunwales do not have entry slots pre-installed as proper location cannot be determined until gunwales are installed. An IQ2 Spreader Tool (available from your Mad River dealer) will be necessary to install the entry slots.

You will need 8 replacement rivets to re-install your decks over top of new gunwales and a 70 pack of #8 x 1” self-tapping square head screws. Rivets can be used to attach gunwales but Mad River Canoe switched to self-tapping screws as they are faster to install and allow for easier removal and installation of gunwales.

In most cases, the decks on IQ2-railed canoes can be saved and reused with new rails.

The IQ2 gunwale profile is just a trifle wider than a conventional vinyl gunwale profile. It will fit the rotomolded decks that Mad River currently uses but some decks will require more modification than others. If your decks do not wrap flush around the IQ2 gunwale where they overlap, you may find it helpful to trim the “legs” of your decks at an angle to provide better fit.

If you are switching from wood or aluminum gunwales to IQ2, you will need to order new decks.

Due to their length, IQ2 gunwales cannot be shipped via UPS.
One alternative is to ship by common carrier (via truck) but this is expensive. Gunwales shipped via common carrier will be sent freight collect (payment due on receipt).

The best alternative is to arrange shipment of gunwales to accompany a shipment of boats to your local dealer. If this can be arranged, there is no freight charge for the gunwales.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

2 Gunwales of adequate length
70 +/- #8 x 1” self – tapping screws (quantity needed depends on length of canoe)
8 HA/A612D Black rivets (or equivalent)
8 3/16” stainless flat washers
IQ Spreader Tool

All above materials are available from Mad River Canoe Authorized Dealers

TOOLS REQUIRED

Rubber Mallet
Electric Drill
Pop Rivet Tool
7/32” and 17/64" Drill Bit
3/8" Wrench
3/8" Drill Bit
7/16" Wrench
13/64" Drill Bit
Hack Saw 6
3" C Clamps
20' Tape Measure
Putty Knife
Duct Tape
Pencil/Non-permanent Marker

NOTE: Additional hardware may be required to complete replacement or rehabilitation of your canoe depending upon model, material, age. Mad River has been building canoes for over 30 years and many changes and improvements have been made during that time. For example, until 1998-99, Mad Rivers’ used ¼” hardware to mount seats, yokes, etc. Since that time MRC has used 3/16” hardware to save weight and allow improvements such as double bolting yokes for increased integrity. While the instructions may specify specific drill bits, please be aware that other sizes may in fact be necessary as needed.

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

Vinyl gunwale replacement starts with marking on the hull of the original locations for seats, yoke, thwart, carry handle, etc. Gunwales can then be removed by drilling out rivets or backing out screws used to secure them to hull.

New gunwales are then placed over the top of the edge of the hull and clamped in place. Gunwales are next marked for spacing of new fasteners. Decks are positioned in place and gunwales are drilled for rivets or secured by self-tapping screws. Outfitting components are then installed at marks made at beginning of process. Finally, new feeder slots are installed in the new rails to accommodate IQ2 accessory modules.

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Run tape measure along curvature of hull below gunwale and mark center point on hull on each side. Measure new gunwales to confirm they are of sufficient length to cover length of hull. Check to make sure aluminum inserts are in place inside IQ2 gunwale and ends are flush. If re-rail requires removal of existing gunwales follow steps below:
Mark placement of seats, thwarts, and yokes on side of canoe hull with marker. This will provide a reference for proper location when replacing these parts on new gunwales are installed.
Mark original rivet or screw locations on hull below gunwale. When fastening new rails in place these marks will serve to space new rivet locations. It is preferable to use new holes rather than enlarge the existing holes with the new rails. Enlarged holes can result in rails becoming slightly loose over time.
If original gunwales are secured by rivets, drill out rivets using properly sized drill bit. Older Mad River Canoe gunwale rivets can be removed by using a 13/64” drill bit. Drill bit should be same diameter as the rivet shank. Drill from outside of hull positioning end of drill bit in center of rivet head. Drill until flange of rivet head separates from rivet stem. It may be necessary to poke rivet stem through hull to dislodge rivet.
For wooden gunwales: Back out screws, starting at one end of hull and proceeding towards other end and continuing down other gunwale to return to end where started.
Drill or unscrew fasteners securing the decks to the canoe if necessary.
When all fasteners are free, pry up on decks and remove. This should also free gunwales along hull. On wooden gunwales, outwale will drop free when final fasteners are removed.
Place decks onto hull, making sure end of deck fits snugly against the bow and stern (see diagram 1). Tamp point with rubber mallet to seat properly. With non-permanent marker, mark outside of the hull at rear edge of the deck on both sides. Also mark point on hull of deck where deck will overlap the gunwale. Remove decks after making marks.
Run tape measure along top edge of hull following outside surface of hull. Start measure at the mark defining end of gunwales under the deck overlap and measure to mark at opposite end defining same location. Double check measurement as this will be length you will cut new gunwales.
Cut new gunwales to measurement made in step 3. Mark center point on each new gunwale.
Position new gunwale on hull, matching center point marked on hull to point marked on gunwale. Narrow side of gunwale goes to the outside of the hull and wide side to inside to provide mounting point for hanging seats, thwarts, and yokes. Start at center and push gunwale fully down onto hull, working towards one end. Tamp gunwale down with mallet to fully seat onto top of hull and use clamps to hold gunwale down in place. Once you have one end on hull, return to center and work towards the other end. You may find that slipping a putty knife up under edge of gunwale will help it slide over the top of hull. You can also use duct tape to help hold the gunwale down. Leave about the last 3’ of the gunwale free to be able to be raised.
Lift the ends of the gunwales from the hull and start ends into decks. Do not fully insert to equal the measurement of overlap made earlier. Push ends of gunwales down onto hull and allow end of deck to seat over end of hull. Use rubber mallet to tamp deck back onto hull until end of deck is flush with stem of canoe.
Step back and "eyeball" the gunwale. Look for any rises or humps that would indicate gunwale is not seated completely on hull. Tamp down and secure any section of rail necessary with additional “C” clamps and/or duct tape gunwale firmly down onto top of hull.
Along gunwale sections, refer to the marks locating the original rivet locations. Place evenly spaced marks along the indented line on the lower external flange of gunwales between old rivet locations. These will be new fastener locations. At decks, mark locations as described in following step.
At decks, mark point on the outside edge of the deck 1" from point where gunwale is inserted. Make next mark 3” towards end of canoe from first mark. Move to end of canoe and make a mark 1" from end of deck. Make a fourth mark 2" from tip of deck. Repeat on other side of deck. This will provide 4 fasteners (2 self-tapping screws and 2 rivets) on each side of deck. Check to make sure that the two marks at wide end of deck are positioned to engage the overlap of the deck and the gunwale. If necessary, adjust position slightly to engage both gunwale and deck.
Confirm that gunwales are firmly seated against top of canoe hull. Beginning at center of hull, insert self-tapping square drive screw onto drive bit and place tip in groove running down center of gunwale flange on the outside of hull. Drive screw through flange, hull, and into interior gunwale box. Be careful not to drive head of screw through the flange. If this occurs, back screw out and install a flat washer on screw and re-drive.
Working towards one end of canoe, drive screws at each marked location, pressing down on top of gunwale at each position to make sure it is fully seated on hull.
When you reach the deck, drive self-tapping screws at marks where deck overlaps gunwale.
Return to center and proceed to fasten other half of gunwale in same fashion.
Repeat for gunwale on opposite side of hull.
Install 13/64” bit on drill and drill through each deck at remaining two marks on each side.
Insert rivet into each remaining hole. Place flat washer over end of rivet on inside of canoe and push washer flat against inside of hull.
Place rivet gun over shank of rivet and pull trigger. Make sure to keep head of gun pushed firmly up against outside of deck to get best attachment. Do not try to hurry things along by bending or twisting rivet gun. This can result in rivet stud being jammed in gun.
Using marks as reference, re-hang seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. Drill 7/32” holes to accommodate current Mad River Canoe mounting hardware.
After all gunwales and fittings are installed access slots need to be installed in the IQ2 gunwale. Factory installation includes:
Exterior gunwale channel: total: 4 (2 per gunwale, one at each end approximately 2” from end of deck)
Interior gunwale channel: total 8 to 12 depending on number of interior fittings (yokes, thwarts, seats, etc). Object is to provide access to all usable sections of interior gunwale. Includes: 2 slots 2” behind bow deck and 2 slots 2”in front of stern deck, 1 slot on each gunwale on either side of center yoke, approximately 2” from yoke. If your canoe has an additional thwart, install slot in each gunwale either behind or in front of thwart to allow access to all internal areas of canoe.

20. To create feeder slots:

Heat gunwale section to be opened with hair dryer on high or heat gun on lowest setting. Keep heat moving and heat until gunwale is warm to touch, not hot. To protect hull, you may want to shield the hull from the heat source. Normally gunwale is properly heated well before any threat is posed to the hull material.
Align slot in edge of spreader tool with upper edge of channel in IQ rail and slide slot over edge of channel. Slowly and with steady pressure lever the tool head gradually upward until tool is in horizontal position to open slot. Do not bend gunwale quickly as this can crack the gunwale.
Align slot in edge of spreader tool with lower edge of channel and slide slot over edge. Slowly and with steady pressure lever the tool head downward slightly to further open the slot. It is not necessary to fully open the bottom edge of slot. It is sufficient to flare it slightly to make entry and exit of components easier.

INTRODUCTION
Welcome to one of the most innovative developments to come to canoeing in years, the Mad River IQ2 Modular Gunwale System. The IQ System will be complemented by a growing range of interchangeable modular accessories that can be added when needed and removed when paddling demands change. You can rig the boat for whitewater paddling one day, bring it home and set it up for a week-long camping trip the next. The beauty of it all is that nothing is permanently installed, no longer do you have to haul permanent whitewater outfitting along on casual outings or annual canoe trips.

HISTORY
History of a concept that’s been two years in development is perhaps a bit grandiose but a little insight into where the IQ and IQ2 came from helps with perspective. The IQ gunwale concept is truly the result of a group effort, no one individual came up with the idea and brought it full fleshed to the point you see it now. There’s a certain beauty in it being a group effort. Paddlers with whitewater play backgrounds joined with expedition trippers, with recreational day paddlers, with sportsmen, and even non-paddlers to create a system that offers significant advantages to however you choose to use your canoe.

The original IQ gunwale system is crafted in aluminum and has the additional capability of movable seats. The IQ2 is based on a vinyl gunwale which does not have the structural integrity to allow the use of movable seats. However, it has the full capability of the original IQ in terms of accommodating accessory modules and letting you rig your boat for specific activities and it offers that capability at a significantly lower price.

The canoe is undoubtedly the most versatile watercraft afloat. The IQ exploits that inherent versatility and allows you to tailor outfitting to use or conditions. Another exciting part of the system is that it’s so open ended. We’ve just begun rolling out accessory modules to complement the gunwale system. For every one we bring to market, another two or three ideas come to mind. The nice thing about it all is that your IQ canoe will be able to accept and use all those accessory modules that have yet to get off the drawing board. It won’t become obsolete.

GETTING TO KNOW THE IQ2
At first glance, the IQ2 may look like any other vinyl gunwale system. Take a few moments to learn why it’s so different and the potentials it offers.

CHANNELS
Feel along the lower parts of the inwale (inside) and outwale (outside) and locate the slots that are the heart of the system. They run end to end, from deck to deck. These channels are outfitted with opened feeder slots strategically placed to allow the insertion of accessory modules. The channels are independent of each other, you can insert one module in the outwale slot and a second module in the inwale slot.

FASTENERS
The gunwale is fastened to the hull via rivets installed along a flange extending below the channels.

FEEDER SLOTS
As you run your hands along the slots you’ll encounter a number of spaced openings or “feeders.” These feeders are placed to allow you to add or remove components or modules. Along the inwale slot you’ll find pairs of feeders behind the bow deck, on either side of the center thwart, and in front of the stern deck. On boats with a second or “tripping” thwart, you’ll find additional feeders on the stern side of that thwart. Along the outwale slot, you’ll find feeders behind the bow deck and in front of the stern deck. All told there are 6 to 10 feeders on the inwale and 4 feeders on the outwale.

Once you have used your IQ2 for while, you may find you’d like additional slots installed for particular purposes. We have available a Spreader Tool that will allow you to customize your system. Contact your local dealer or log on to www.madrivercanoe.com to find out how best to acquire a Spreader.

GETTING SETTLED IN THE SEATS
Explorer 14 & 16TT and Explorer Orion Triple Tough Rotomolded Models
The IQ2 on our Explorer 14 and 16 TT (Triple Tough) models is available in choice of ash/web seats or a rotomolded bucket seat with adjustable backrest. The web seat requires no adjustments or modifications.

To release the backrest from stored position, unclip bungee cord from clip on front of seat and raise backrest. Hook bungee cord over clip on back of seat to tension backrest. The backrest can be adjusted for angle by leaning forward to get your weight off the seat back and pulling or releasing the straps to either side of your hips.

Royalex Canoe Models
The IQ2 system in Royalex models is standard with ash/cane seats for maximum flexibility and minimal weight. No adjustment or modification is necessary.

CARE & MAINTENANCE OF THE IQ GUNWALE
As there are few moving parts, there is little required maintenance on the IQ system. As with any other piece of performance equipment, keeping it clean will enhance its’ ease of use and longevity.

Periodically rinse both inwale and outwale slots by setting boat on side and flushing with water from center so that water and debris flow towards ends. Rinse gunwales after use in salt water or whenever you find the sliders or rope binding or encountering obstructions.

Should slot be crimped or otherwise bind movement, use of spreader tool to bend slot to proper alignment will usually solve the problem. Pliers can be used but care must be taken to bend the gunwale slowly and evenly to eliminate sharp edges.

Periodic treatment of the gunwales with 303 Protectant will protect against long-term degradation by UV light and provide smooth insertion, positioning, or removal of modules.

TRANSPORTING THE IQ
It is recommended that all modules be removed from canoe while cartopping. Certain modules such as the sprayshields, belly cover, work station, glove box will affect how your canoe fits on your rack bars and must be removed. If you choose to travel with any modules in place it is essential that you secure them in place with additional tethers for maximum security. This is necessary to prevent them from moving due to windage and vibration and reaching a feeder slot and perhaps dropping free.

For TT canoes with roto seats, lower seat backs and pull bungee cord over top of seat back and clip over hook attached to front of seat.

IQ/IQ2 ACCESSORY MODULES
The process of developing IQ and IQ2 modular accessories is a happily never ending process. We will continually be expanding the available options or “modules.” For more information on existing modules and to keep tabs on additional modules, we suggest you log on to www.madrivercanoe.com.

REMOVABLE YOKE (#62-03590)
Padded and contoured and connects right into holes pre-drilled in the center thwart on IQ models and can easily be fitted to center yoke on IQ2 by drilling two ¼” holes. A contoured aluminum frame supports a dense neoprene-covered foam pad, adding both comfort and stability to your carry. Yoke is secured by wing nuts and can easily be fitted to canoes with conventional wood yoke. Anodized aluminum frame with corrosion resistant fittings.

ADJUSTABLE FOOTBRACE (#62-02890)
Provides maximum comfort and paddling efficiency, once you’ve tried a footbrace you’ll never go back. Sized for stern and/or center seats, the tube over tube footbrace is fully adjustable. Suspended from the inwale slot, the IQ Footbrace requires no holes drilled in the hull or having to rely on unreliable adhesives. A “V” suspension, relying on the same spindle that holds the seats, slides to coordinate with seat position and is also height adjustable to suit particular paddling styles. Lift foot bar and brace slides to position. Lower foot bar and brace is locked securely in position. Complete with elastic tender to secure footbrace while car topping canoe.

SPRAYSHIELD - TANDEM (#62-00190)
Like a kayak miniskirt the Sprayshield extends over bow (or stern) of canoe, protecting paddlers from spray or wave and can serve to protect bow paddler’s legs from sun as well. Keys into outwale slot and cone-like profile deflects water overboard rather than into paddler’s lap. Multiple stays hold shape and keep it from draping down onto paddler’s legs. Semi-collapsible so it can be pushed out of way when not needed. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover. Great way to paddle dry when crossing a lake with the chop kicking up. Not intended for use in Class III or above whitewater. 36” long x 33” wide.

SPRAYSHIELD – SHORT TANDEM (#62-00290)
Designed for shorter tandem canoes such as Adventure 14 or for stern of 15’ or longer canoes. Similar construction to Tandem Sprayshield in a more compact length. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover.Not intended for use in Class III or above whitewater. 28” long x 32” wide.

SPRAYSHIELD – SOLO (#62-00590)
We’ve taken the tandem sprayshield and extended it for center-seated solo use. Long enough to cover gear and reduce windage, making paddling easier and more efficient. Can be installed on bow or stern of solo canoes. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover. 46” long x 33” wide.
Fits: Royalex Freedom Solo, Horizon 15

BELLY COVER (#62-01090)
Covers center of tandem boats, protecting from waves, spray, and sun. Hoop stays elevate cover to keep from pooling water, also provides a shady nook for napping pre-school paddlers. Can be slid forward or back as needed, providing some sun protection for stern paddlers and protecting valuable gear wherever it might be stowed. Side zipper makes for easy installation or removal and lets you open cover to access gear without having to remove cover. Not intended for Class III or above whitewater.

FLOTATION/GEAR OVERBAG – OUTRAGE/OUTRAGE X (#62-01590)
Keys into inwale slot and provides protected enclosed storage and lash-in for flotation bags and/or dry bags. Nylon oxford deck is smooth and snag-free – no lashing to catch on obstacles. Mesh sides, base, and back allow easy drainage. Eliminates necessity of installing permanent lash systems in canoe or drilling holes in gunwales or hull. Zippered rear entry provides easy access. Internal mesh pocket keeps gear like throw bags, water bottles, etc. secure yet readily available. Does a great job protecting float bags from hazards of highway travel too. Yellow deck with black mesh. Specific bag for each model Outrage.

GEAR/FLOTATION OVERBAG – TANDEM END BAG
Two piece zippered installation goes in and out easy. Long axis zipper allows for insertion of up to 36” end bag or for assorted gear and equipment. Coated top deck resists splash and spray, mesh sides and base won’t collect water. External mesh pocket keeps often needed items close at hand. Great way to use often ignored storage space. Overbag and contents are integrated securely into boat, can’t wash out should something go wrong. Fits in bow or stern of IQ boats. Black deck with black mesh.

GEAR/FLOTATION OVERBAG/WANIGAN – CENTER
Inspired by the old rigid Wanigan canoe boxes, the Center Overbag slots into IQ gunwales at center of hull. Adjustable rope rail system allows use in boats of varying widths and ability to keep bag tensioned to avoid pooling of water. Half-moon zipper allows easy in and out of bulky gear from mini split center float bags to a weekend or more worth of gear. Lash straps secure bag to center thwart and combined with IQ attachment make it virtually impossible to have Overbag separate from canoe unless you want it to, then it’s fast and easy. Overbags can be offset to allow doubling up, one bag on each side of thwart. External mesh pocket for easy access to frequently needed items. Coated fabric deck resists spray and splash, mesh base and sides won’t trap water. Linked side carry handles make it easy to haul loaded bag from vehicle to canoe or canoe to campsite and in one easy trip to boot. Black deck with black mesh.

FLOTATION/GEAR LASH IN SYSTEM (#62-02090)
Spaced web loops sewn to slot-fitting “rope” make it easy to secure float bags or gear in your canoe. Each 56” length has 6 tie-in sewn loops. Can fit in center of boat or in bow or stern. Can be trimmed to length for smaller areas. Sold in pairs.

ZIPPERED CHINE DRY BAG (#62-04090)
Dry bag sewn to slot-fitting “rope” with waterproof zipper provides bomb-proof dry and secure storage for valued gear. Keeps equipment much more accessible than when tumbled in a pile in center of canoe. Long zipper on a 40” long x 6.5” tall bag easily swallows long awkward items. Rope rail keeps bag secure in canoe and prevents loss. External lashing points to secure bulky items like paddles or tripods. Can be positioned or moved just about anywhere in canoe, on either side amidships or in front of paddlers for even faster access to gear. Yellow.

WORK STATION (#62-05290)
Unique accessory that provides a stable hard surface to fix lunch, organize fishing lines, tie lures or flies, study maps and plot courses. Molded box is suspended on two tube over tube poles and can be pulled towards you when needed or pushed away when not. Can be oriented in two directions and set up in choice of two heights. Lid has molded in cup holders and slot to hold tools, pencils, markers, etc. Top is secured to base with bungee cords. Box measures 8” deep x 12.5” x 14.25”. Complete with suspension poles and hardware.

COMING SOON: Interchangeable modules to tailor your work station to particular uses such a kitchen afloat, photographer’s assistant, birder’s library, fisherman’s tackle box, cooler, etc. Look for first of these late spring/early summer, 2005.

GLOVE BOX (#62-05090)
Handy, personal-sized storage box that slides along inwale slot and keeps often needed items such as sun screen, bug repellant, etc. close at hand. Glove Box measures 6” deep x 4” x 6.5” and is tapered to also fit between the side arms of conventional wood/cane seats.

ADJUSTABLE TIE DOWNS (#62-02290)
In its’ own way, perhaps the most exciting of IQ Modules, the adjustable tie downs can be positioned anywhere on the inwale slots or on carry handles or thwarts to provide handy anchor points to secure gear. The Tie Downs lock into the slot with a screw controlled by a thumb knob and are milled to accept rope up to.25”/6 mm in diameter or 1”/2.5mm webbing. Will secure large or small items and can also serve as brakes to firmly secure seat positioning when actively paddling. Set of 4.

SOFT BACKREST W/SEATPAD (#62-03290)
Canoeists have long envied the flexible backrests available for sit-on-top kayaks. With the IQ, you can become the envy of your paddling friends. Low profile wraparound adjustable backrest is designed to allow for comfortable paddling in all but most arduous conditions yet provide blissful support when floating about your favorite fishing hole. Secures to seat and to inwale slot in gunwale. Black

SPREADER TOOL
Essential for those wanting to further customize their IQ system. Slotted tool grabs edge of slot and simple bending motion opens up slot to allow accessories to be fed into place. Tool opens a smooth 3” slot in rail with no sharp edges to snag fingers or fittings. Use on slots in gunwales, not designed to open slots in carry handles or thwarts.

CHAMELEON CAMOUFLAGE DRAPES
Now you can match your canoe to the habitat you’re paddling in, even if you paddle in different areas. A key accessory for the sportsman. Mesh side drapes slide into the external slot on IQ gunwales to cloak the sides of the canoe in choice of Shadowgrass or New Break-Up camo patterns. Panels overlap to accommodate canoes ranging from 13 to 17.5’ in length. Keyed end covers overlap side panels to complete the “illusion.” Easily installed while afloat so paddling efficiency to reach prime hunting areas is not impeded.
Set includes 4 side panels and 2 end covers.

Chameleon Camouflage Top Cover
Mesh top cover mates to side drapes via hook and loop and includes 2 seating positions that can be cinched tight with drawstrings. Completes the concealment of the canoe from birds overhead. Available in choice of Shadowgrass or New Break-Up patterns.

WARRANTY
Like all Mad River Canoe products, the IQ Gunwale System and accessory modules are covered by our Lifetime Warranty. Basically, if you ever experience failure attributable to defective materials or workmanship, we will repair or replace it at no charge. Damage due to abuse, modification or improper use and wear and tear are not covered. Warranty consideration may entail shipping your boat or damaged part to Trinity, NC at your expense. Mad River will provide return transportation. For warranty information call Mad River Customer Service (8-5 Eastern time, M-F) at 800/311-7245 or contact us by email at [email protected]

the IQ………………
……….. think about it!

One of the blessings of opting for a polyethylene canoe is that there is very little required or even recommended maintenance involved. You should get years of life out of your canoe with a minimum of precautions.

If at all possible store your canoe hull up/gunwales down (upside down) slightly elevated off the ground and under cover. Sunlight/UV can have some negative impact on your hull but those effects are felt only over very long term exposure, so there's no urgency involved but for the long range health of your boat it's good to put it in the shade.

Simply draping a cover over the hull is not a good idea. Having a waterproof cover in direct contact with the hull will create and trap condensation and moisture and can lead to fading or discoloration of the hull color. It's far better to suspend the cover above the hull, allowing air flow between the hull and cover to dissipate moisture.

There's no harm in treating your canoe to a wipe down with a UV protectant such as 303. We recommend 303 over other better known brands as it is water-based rather than silicon-based and will not leave a silicon trail on the surface of the water. Such a treatment will also keep your hull color rich and vibrant.

There's no virtue in waxing your polyethylene hull. For one, the wax will not stick to it and one of the performance benefits of a wax coat is that it leaves a smoother surface, ie: less resistance to forward motion. On polyethylene hulls, wax won't smooth out the hull nor stick so don't waste your time and money on this.

Be careful if you're considering sanding a portion of a polyethylene hull as the sandpaper grit will abrade the hull. Polyethylene is a relatively soft material and it can be scored or marked fairly easily though it's very difficult to break or fracture. In most cases it's better to live with scratches and shallow gouges, think of them as mementos and memories of past trips.

The gunwales on a Journey are stiff and strong enough to allow you store the boat on sawhorses or something similar. On the Adventures with integral molded gunwales, you should check to make sure the gunwales are not deflecting at the point where they are supported. You may find it necessary to insert some wider boards on top of the supports to spread the weight and reduce the distortion. In most cases, that distortion will work itself out over time and use but if the boat is left for a long time in such a position, that distortion could become well established and less likely to work out on its' own.

Also on the Adventures, you should just leave the seat backs in a loose position without any tension on any bungee cords. Leaving the bungees slack means that they will retain their spring. If the seatbacks are stored with bungees under tension, they will eventually stretch to that length and lose the ability to rebound.

Periodically it's a good idea to go around your boat and tighten up any hardware. It's recommended that you use hand tools to do this and just tighten until snug. The stainless steel seat bolts used on the Journeys is very strong but it is possible to over tighten it and make it brittle.

It's always best to paddle a clean hull, not only in the sense of efficiency but also in protecting the environment and making sure there are no parasitic hitch-hikers on your hull getting the chance to colonize a new body of water. A wipe down with a solution of diluted dish washing detergent followed by a fresh water rinse will usually do the trick.

It's also good to rinse the canoe with fresh water after salt water use. Salt water per se will not have any harmful effects on your hull but the salt left behind when the water evaporates is abrasive and can scratch the finish of your hull when ground between hull and foot.

The wood seat frames and yokes featured in the Journeys may need minor touch-ups over time but they too are largely maintenance-free, particularly if stored out of the weather and unexposed to rain or moisture. Should you see the wood frame graying in an area that indicates that the surface barrier coat of varnish has been breached and water is getting under the varnish. You will need to sand that area until the discolored surface is removed and then recoat with an exterior spar or polyurethane varnish.

Adventure and Journey replacement parts are readily available from Mad River Canoe via your local authorized dealer. It's helpful to know your boat model when ordering parts. If you are replacing seats or yokes in a Journey style canoe, keep the originals until the replacements arrive. Replacement parts are not shipped pre-cut. You will nee the originals to use as templates to cut new parts to fit.

Multiple coats of Gunwale Guard are applied to wood gunwales during the canoe building process. Particular attention is paid to oiling the surface of the gunwale that will be against the hull once the canoe is assembled as it’s obviously tough to get to that surface once the canoe is built.

We recommend that you apply a fresh coat of oil before you use your canoe. There’s no telling how long the canoe may have been on the shelf at your retailer or to what temperatures and humidity it may have been exposed to since it was built. These are factors that can wear down an oil finish.

Natural finish Gunwale Guard can be applied over dark stained finishes. The only time you might need dark stained Gunwale Guard is when you want to darken or re-stain the gunwales. Natural Gunwale Guard is the preferred final finish.

For a quick oil wipe down

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Gunwale Guard
Brushes and dry rags

PROCEDURE:

Position the boat upright at a convenient height.
Use dry rag and wipe down gunwales to remove any dust. If there are any wet spots use a hair dryer to dry those areas thoroughly.
You can use a paint brush, foam brush or a rag to apply Gunwale Guard. Give the can a light stir before using (do not shake as this traps air within the material).
Beginning at one end, apply an even coat of oil. It helps to have a dry rag on hand to wipe up any drips that might drop down on the hull. Apply oil to both gunwales. Do not oil seat frames or yoke.
Let oil sit on gunwales for 5 to 10 minutes. Wipe off any unabsorbed oil with dry rag.
Put canoe in the water.

Down the Road

It’s inevitable that you will need to freshen the oil on your gunwales. What will determine when needed will be a combination of use and exposure; how much the canoe is used and how and where it is stored. The trick is how to tell…….

Left untreated, ash naturally weathers to a grey finish. Left too long and the surface grain will become increasingly rough and raised as more moisture is absorbed and then evaporated. That’s one good indication that some attention is needed. Another is to try a variation of the old “splash-some-water-on-the-car-and-if-it-beads-up-the-wax-is-good” test: drip some water on your gunwales. If the water is absorbed it’s time to oil. If the water runs off the gunwale your protection is probably good.

Please note that canoes stored indoors for a lengthy time, particularly in a place with low humidity are likely to have dry rails. Such rails will readily absorb moisture if exposed and will not have the elasticity of oiled rails. It’s just as good an idea to oil rails in this condition as those overexposed to the elements.

If you’ve been diligent in keeping your rails oiled, it’s likely the quick wipe procedure described earlier will do the trick. If you’ve let your gunwales go for awhile and let Mother Nature have her way a bit too long, you’re facing a bit more complicated process to restore your gunwales to original glory.

Let’s assume your canoe has been neglected for longer than you want to admit; the rails are grey and the grain has raised some due to absorption of water. The following process is well tested and proven to bring the gunwales back to showroom condition and beyond.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS REQUIRED

Gunwale Guard
Dry Rags
Brushes
80, 120, 220 grit sandpaper (400 grit optional)
Palm sander (very helpful and time and sweat-saving. If not available, a sanding block is a necessity)
Hair Dryer (if gunwales are damp)
knife with sharp point
Dust mask
Masking tape

PROCEDURE

Set boat upright at a comfortable height to work on gunwales.
If gunwales are damp dry gunwales thoroughly with hair dryer. Ideally, storing the boat inside for several days prior to oiling will help dry out the gunwales as well.
Test gunwales for rot or weakness by trying to poke the point of the knife into the most worn areas. Even if discolored, gunwales should resist the knife point. If knife can be easily pushed into gunwale this indicates that there is rot in the gunwale and no amount of oiling will restore the gunwale’s integrity. Time to consider a re-rail. Be sure to test the underside of the gunwale as well.
If working on a Royalex canoe with top-mounted decks, back out screws and remove decks from canoe and set aside.
Wearing an approved dust mask, put 80 grit sandpaper on sander or sanding block and sand top of gunwales. Depending on condition of gunwales you may want to loosen and remove the hardware securing the seats, yokes, thwarts, etc to allow sanding of the area under and immediately around the hardware. Keep sander moving and keep sanding until all discoloration or grey is removed from top of rail.
6) Carefully continue sanding the sides of the gunwale. Watch that the sander does not contact the hull as scratches will result.
Flip canoe over and apply masking tape along side of hull along gunwale. The tape will give you some protection while sanding and also serve as an early warning system if you get too close to the hull with sander. I have had success carefully positioning the sand paper on the sander pad just slightly inside of the edge of the pad. This gives me the margin of error for the pad to bump against the hull but not the sandpaper.
Switch sandpaper to 120 grit and sand again. If you want fine finish, switch again to 220 grit. Flip boat over to upright position when finished on underside and repeat the progression. You can leave tape in place at this point.
Once sanding is complete, wipe down gunwales with dry rag to remove dust.
If you are staining the gunwales as well as oiling, this is time to apply stain. Lightly stir the stain to even the color and apply with brush or rag to gunwale. Make sure to apply stain to top, sides and underside of gunwales. Wipe up any drips that occur.
Allow the stain about 10 minutes to soak into the wood then wipe off excess with a dry rag. This is the time to stain the decks as well if desired.
Lightly stir the oil (do not shake as this introduces and entraps air in the oil). Apply a liberal coat of oil to the gunwale. You can use a bristle brush, foam brush, or dry rags to apply oil. Wipe up any drips as they occur. It’s a good idea to have a dry rag in one hand and your brush or oiling rag in the other, wiping up drips as you go.
Allow oil to soak into gunwales for about 10 minutes. Check periodically for drips and clean these off hull as they occur.
After 10 minutes, wipe down gunwales with dry rag, removing any unabsorbed oil.
Apply a second lighter coat of oil and allow to sit for 10 minutes.
Apply a light coat of oil to the carry handles and seat trusses. These parts are not varnished and will benefit from periodic oiling. If trusses are discolored, remove from canoe and sand surface to remove stains. While they’re out of canoe, take time to sand and oil other side.
Wipe gunwales down with dry rag.
Flip canoe over and repeat two step process on underside of gunwales. If working on a composite canoe with inset decks, make sure to reach in and oil the underside of the deck and gunwales. This may be easier done with a small rag and a stick to push the rag up into the nose of the canoe for best coverage.
Inspect for drips. If you’ve missed a drip and it has hardened, simply brush a light coat of oil over the drip. Give it a minute or so to soften the drip and then wipe off with dry rag.
If working on a royalex canoe with wood decks, sand decks with grain with 80, 120, 220 grit on both top and bottom. Apply coat of oil to top, let sit for 10 and then wipe off. Flip deck over and repeat process for bottom.
If you’re feeling particularly ambitious and want a furniture quality finish, apply a light coat of oil to the gunwales and using 400 grit sandpaper, “wet” sand the rails though the oil on the surface. This will also provide deeper, long lasting protection as the force and friction drives the oil deeper into the gunwale’s grain structure. Make sure to keep the sandpaper moist with oil as you sand. Wipe down with dry rag when finished.
Install the decks if removed during the process.

BEFORE YOU USE YOUR NEW CANOE

The first thing you should do after completing the purchase of your canoe is to remove the poly bag containing the owners manual from the seat. Doing this at the store will prevent the manual and grab loops from being lost while transporting your canoe. The recommended knot to secure the grab loops to your hull is described in the manual. It's safest to install the grab loops before transporting your canoe.

Once home, record the serial number (found on right side near stern under the gunwale) in your owner's manual. After reviewing your manual, store it in a safe location at home.

You may also want to check in with your insurance provider to see how your canoe is covered under your homeowner's policy and if the coverage is adequate to protect your new purchase. The terms and stipulations of the coverage may define how your canoe should be stored.

RIGGING YOUR CANOE FOR THE WATER

Install the grab loops included with the owners' manual. Instructions are in the manual.

Most canoeists will then attach “painter” lines of 3/8” +/- line to the grab loops. Start with lengths of painter of 12' to 15' and tie the painters to the grab loops securely. The painters allow you to tie off your canoe to shore as well as provide a means to retrieve your canoe in case of upset. It's best to coil or contain the painters when not in use so that they do not tangle paddler's feet. Do not lay the painters in the bottom of your canoe or put gear on top of them, making them difficult to retrieve. A common technique is to coil them into a bundle and wedge the bundle between the deck and carry handle at each end of your canoe.

The majority of canoes have no moving parts and are ready for the water “right out of the box.” If your boat has adjustable sliding seat(s), or adjustable back rests, position these in the “middle” or neutral position to start off. Get familiar with how these moving components operate and are adjusted before you get in the canoe.

If your canoe has a sliding seat, you may need the help of a 3rd party to help you adjust seat positioning to achieve proper trim. Have both paddlers sit in the canoe and use an observer to stand back and assess whether boat is in trim or not. The canoe should not be bow-heavy, you want it to be either neutral or flat or slightly bow-light. You may find it helpful to mark the sliding seat runners where the seat position creates neutral trim. This will provide a reference to help you determine what trim works best for you. Bear in mind that one of the advantages of a sliding seat is the ability to change trim to best suit different conditions.

The paddler's weight should be sufficient to keep the seat in place when you start paddling. If the seat wiggles or moves while paddling, you may want to tighten the screws securing the seat to the runners. A Phillips head screwdriver and a 3/8” wrench will be required.

Make sure you have an approved PFD for each paddler/passenger and that everyone wears their PFD. You should also have a spare paddle with you every time you head out in case a paddle is broken or lost.

FIRST TIME ON THE WATER

If possible, pick a warm day and protected, calm shallow waters to get to know your canoe. Depending on hull shape, canoes will paddle differently as well as “sit” differently in the water.. Some seem to be more solidly “planted” than others. It is important to get the “feel” of your canoe before venturing onto more ambitious waters. Load your canoe parallel to the shore and make sure all paddlers/passengers are seated on seats or low in the hull before pushing off from shore.

One way to gain a sense of how your canoe will lean and how far it can lean before tipping is to stay close to shore and brace your paddles against the bottom. Then lean the hull towards the paddles. Be conservative at first, lean a little then relax and let the hull return to upright position. Try it again, pushing things a little further and again relax and let hull return. Continue the progression until you don't feel comfortable and then ease your grip on the paddles and see if the canoe is at the point where it wants to recover upright or to capsize. What you're doing here is getting a sense of how much final stability your canoe has. This will help eliminate or at least reduce the panic and over-reaction that might be experienced when the canoe is leaned.

Once you're comfortable in the canoe, test paddle by aiming at a landmark and seeing how successful you are in keeping the bow of the canoe on target. Many times, this ability is more dependent on how well the paddlers work together but after all, you're trying to acquaint yourself with your new canoe and learn how it interacts with your paddling styles and abilities.

Once you get the boat up to cruising speed, ease off and let the hull glide forward. Canoes will glide differently; some will carry their way for a good ways while others will drop speed very quickly. It's good to know into which category your boat falls so you can anticipate its' tendency.

Next, decide whether you want to turn right or left and begin paddling forward. At a command, have both paddlers paddle forward on one side of the hull, turning the canoe away from the paddles. This will give you not only an idea of how quickly you can turn the boat in this fashion but also a good sense of the hull's resistance to roll with both paddlers working on the same outside side of the hull.

Next step is to repeat the maneuver but have the paddlers on opposite sides, with the paddler with blade on the outside driving forward while the other paddler on the inside, back paddles. The turning momentum is entirely different and again you're acquiring a feel for how your boat will respond under those conditions.

If you're comfortable with draw strokes, test your canoe by having both paddlers draw to same side to pull the canoe in that direction and then have paddles on opposite sides to see how quickly the canoe will rotate.

All these maneuvers have places in the real world and it behooves you to practice and play with your boat in anticipation. All of these can and will come into play whether you're paddling flowing moving water or open flat water. One of the keys to effective, efficient paddling is the ability to anticipate how your boat will respond and to take advantage of that. The best way to do so is when you're in non-threatening conditions that allow you to focus on stroke variations and your canoe's response. Gaining that feel of your canoe will pay huge dividends when you're out in the field and unanticipated situations and conditions arise. That's the kind of sense that makes the Mad River Rabbit a “Confident Bunny.”

MAINTENANCE & UPKEEP OF YOUR CANOE

One of the nice things about canoes is that they are comparatively low-maintenance. Very few, if any, moving parts that have to be adjusted or lubricated or replaced. Nonetheless, a little TLC will go a long way in ensuring your canoe is capable of delivering all the performance its' capable of.

As you'll note below, the list of necessary and recommended materials is pretty short and easily acquired.

Recommended Maintenance Materials:

Gunwale Guard (if your canoe has wood gunwales):

Gunwale Guard is a resinated oil that soaks into the grain of the wood, providing a deep layer of protection against moisture. It bonds to the wood fibers and is able to flex with the wood to maintain protection. Wood components that will benefit from Gunwale Guard: gunwales, decks, seat trusses, carry handles, and sliding seat runners and footbrace in Expedition models. Seat frames, thwarts, and yokes are protected by an exterior polyurethane varnish.

Mad River Canoe does not recommend varnishing your gunwales as varnish is a surface coating and is quite brittle. As you paddle your canoe, the wood gunwales will continually flex and this will breakdown the varnish layer over time, allowing water to penetrate underneath the topcoat and deteriorate the gunwale from within.

Gunwale Guard is available in a natural or dark stain finish. The natural can be applied to bare, unstained wood or over Gunwale Guard Stain. If you want to darken or refresh your dark stained rails, apply Gunwale Guard Stain.

303 Protectant:

303 is a UV protectant, designed to prevent degradation of surfaces exposed to UV light. It will prevent surfaces from becoming brittle as well as color fading. Mad River Canoe recommends 303 over similar products as it is water-based rather than silicon-based and as such is less degrading to the marine environment in which canoes live and work. Periodic application of 303 to aluminum, fiberglass, and vinyl will keep your canoe looking like new. It's also good stuff to use on your car interior, tires, etc.

Be aware that immediately following application that 303 will leave surfaces slippery. This condition fades quickly as the 303 cures.

Biodegradable Mild Cleanser:

A paste style cleanser is recommended for cleaning your canoe hull. Do not use any type of abrasive cleanser as this can scratch or dull your hull finish. Mad River Canoe recommends use of a citrus-based cleanser as its' friendlier not only to your canoe and yourself but also to the environment.

Wood Gunwales

The wood gunwales of your Mad River Canoe were treated at the factory with three coats of Gunwale Guard preservative. Mad River Canoe recommends that upon receiving your canoe, you apply another coat yourself. It takes very little time to oil the gunwales. Complete instructions can be found in this page.

The gunwales should be treated periodically with oil. The frequency thereof depends on the manner in which the canoe is used and stored. Canoes used infrequently and stored indoors can get by with 3 or 4 treatments annually ( when removed from winter storage, twice during period of usage, and when returned to winter storage). Canoes that are used frequently and stored outdoors will benefit from a monthly application of oil.

You can test how “needy” your gunwales are for oil by pouring some water on the gunwales. If it soaks right in, they need oil. If it beads up and runs off the surface, you're probably okay. Make sure to check both the top and bottom of the gunwales.

Aluminum and vinyl gunwales

Both types are pretty much maintenance-free, although a coat of 303 Protectant will protect the finish.

HULLS

303 is the recommended treatment for all Mad River Canoe hull materials. An application of 303 prior to putting your canoe in the water is a good way to start things off on the right foot.

Mad River Canoe does not recommend waxing your hull. With 303 it is not necessary, not to mention the fact that wax will not stick to polyethylene hulls and is not compatible with the vinyl skin on Royalex. Nor does wax provide much benefit on a composite hull.

A hull rinse and wipe down is recommended after every trip. Not only does this remove any scum of film the hull may have accumulated before it can dry or stain the hull, but it is also increasingly necessary in today's world to prevent the spread of foreign organisms from one body of water to another. A fresh water rinse after a salt water paddle will also help reduce the likelihood of corrosion.

HARDWARE

All of the hardware in your new Mad River Canoe is made of stainless steel and is not
susceptible to rust or corrosion under normal circumstances. If your canoe is constantly exposed to salt water, over time some corrosion can occur. If you see evidence of corrosion it is best to remove and replace that hardware at your earliest opportunity.

It is advisable, to periodically check all screws and nuts for tightness. Due to repeated use and/or vibration during transportation, the hardware can loosen over time and may require occasional adjustment. Do not over tighten hardware, just bring it back up to snug. Stainless steel can be brittle and it is possible to break a bolt by over tightening the hardware.

On canoes such as our Adventure Series with adjustable backrests, it is advisable to remove tension on the bungee cords and straps when not in use for sustained periods. This keeps those components from becoming stretched out and losing tension.

Adventure Series

As durable as polyethylene is, it is more likely that you may have to repair or replace some components of your canoe's outfitting.Adventure Outfitting consists of those parts that are added or installed on the hull of the canoe. They would include the carry handles, seat pads, mesh pockets, seat back pad, adjustable backrest and straps.

It's not likely that you'll experience any issues with these parts as they have been well-tested and have a solid history behind them. The nice thing is that the canoe remains fully functional even if every piece of outfitting should fail. There is no need to stay off of the water until you obtain replacement parts - you can keep paddling while you wait.

All of these parts are removable and easily accessible to facilitate replacement with common hand tools. All hardware should be replaced with non-corroding stainless steel hardware.

Replacement parts are readily available from Mad River Canoe via your local authorized dealer.

Journey Series

The gunwales, decks, yokes/thwarts, seats, etc. are all replaceable in event of damage. Replacement parts are readily available from Mad River Canoe via your local authorized dealer (or shopatron.com)

NOTE: On ordering replacement parts:

Make sure you know the model and length of your canoe. This will help ensure that you receive the correct parts. Having your serial number available when ordering can help eliminate confusion as well.
Replacement seats, yokes, thwarts are sold uncut only, in stock lengths. If you need a replacement for one of these components, keep the original part to use as a template for trimming the new component to size.
Gunwales must be shipped via motor freight. They are too long to be shipped via UPS or FedEx. The most convenient way to obtain replacement gunwales is to have your dealer order a pair and ask for them to ship with an order of canoes or kayaks to his store. If you need to have gunwales delivered directly to you (due to distance from dealer, etc), you will need to provide a commercial address for delivery. Most trucking companies will not deliver to a residential address or will charge extra to do so.

All seat and yoke/thwart mounting hardware is stainless steel and requires a Phillips head screwdriver and a 7/16” wrench to install or remove. Gunwales are secured by 1/8” square drive self-tapping screws. The decks are mounted via same square drive self-tapping screws where they overlap gunwales and with rivets where not. Rivets can be drilled to remove.

Instructions for removing and installing replacement gunwales and parts are HERE on the Mad River Canoe website.

The most common reasons for needing to replace seats, yokes, or thwarts, are damage or deterioration due to age. These replacements can be done quite easily and will require basic tools such as screwdriver, wrench, saw, and drill. The process begins with marking the new part, cutting and drilling part to fit and then installing. In most cases, the original hardware can still be used but if needed, replacement hardware can be ordered. Hardware replacement is necessary if the bolts are significantly bent or the threads have been damaged and will not accept a lock nut.

The most common damage to gunwales is distortion. It is difficult to restore a gunwale to original shape when bent or twisted. The gunwale has to be removed from the hull to attempt this. If there is not sharp bend or crimp in the curve of the gunwale it is possible to straighten the gunwale but may be more difficult than anticipated. If gunwale is severely bent, it is best to replace the gunwale.

This process requires removal of original gunwale and decks and installation of new gunwale with original decks. Tools required will include about 6 to 8 clamps, drill, square drive bit, saw, rivet gun (to re-install decks). It is not a complicated process but the steps as outlined in instructions should be carefully followed.

It is rare that decks need to be replaced. Most commonly, they have to get changed out as part of the process of replacing the gunwales.

A list of paddling organizations that can help you get involved in canoeing:

American Canoe Association
America's Premier Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting Organization Since 1880.
http://www.americancanoe.org

Northern Forest Canoe Trail
A member-supported non-profit organization that champions and provides paddling access, highlights heritage assets, engages communities with their backyard waterways and is managed and maintained by community-based stewardship partners in the northeastern United States.
http://northernforestcanoetrail.org

Professional Paddlesports Association
The Professional Paddlesports Association (PPA) is the premier trade association promoting paddlesports. PPA serves the paddlesports industry, including canoe, kayak and raft rentals, retailers, liveries, outfitters, manufacturers, and distributors.
http://propaddle.com

Trade Association of Paddlesports
TAPS is the only trade association in the world whose sole mission is the commerce of paddlesports. Our members are the industry leaders in providing you with the best in paddling equipment, services, and experiences no matter what your skill level may be.
http://www.paddlesportsindustry.org

Canadian Recreational Canoeing Association
The CRCA was formed as a result of the perceived need that recreational paddling enthusiasts from across Canada required a national body to co-ordinate the efforts of those involved in non-competitive canoeing and kayaking.
http://www.crca.ca

American Whitewater Association
The mission of AWA is to conserve and restore America's whitewater resources and to enhance opportunities to enjoy them safely.
http://www.americanwhitewater.org

Sierra Club
"Explore, Enjoy and Protect the Planet" is the Sierra Club's motto. This site has links to events, issues and chapters in most states (US).
http://www.sierraclub.org

American Rivers
A nonprofit conservation organization dedicated to protecting and restoring rivers nationwide (US).
http://www.americanrivers.org

The Outdoor Industry Association
The Foundation's vision is to be a driving force behind a massive increase in active outdoor recreation in America.
http://www.outdoorindustry.org

Knowing daily streamflow conditions can be essential when making paddling plans. Check the USGS site for daily streamflow conditions.

One of the universal truths about polyethylene is that it is difficult to repair. Fortunately, it is a material that rarely needs repair, but there will be times.

Shallow scratches and gouges are sometimes best lived with. Unless quite deep, they are cosmetic in nature and will not impact the integrity of the hull. If you have some gouges with raised “feathers” of material around the edges, there’s no harm in using a sharp knife to trim away those feathers.

If the unlikely occurs and you have an actual crack in the hull, it’s a different story. Depending on location and extent of the crack, it may or may not be repairable. It is very difficult to perform a structural repair on polyethylene and if the crack is extensive or in a critical location, it may pose a hazard to continue to use the canoe and it may be time to take it to the recyclers. The best way to determine whether such an injury is fatal is to contact customer service and email pictures to them. They can advise you of your options.

The Adventure series construction is single layer polyethylene and a crack in the hull means a crack that goes all the way through the hull. If the crack is small, you may be able to keep the canoe functioning by melting some linear polyethylene onto each side of the hull for the length of the crack, kind of like filling a gouge in a PTEX ski base with new PTEX. Polyethylene has a low melting point and a lighter is usually sufficient to kick the material to a liquid state. Simply drip the new material over the top of the crack and for about ¼” beyond each end of the crack. Then repeat on the opposite side of the hull. If you have some buildup at the edges of the new material, it is a good idea to lightly sand those areas until they are fair to the hull. Leaving a sharp edge to the patch makes it more likely that the patch can be scraped loose as the boat crosses an obstruction.

Unfortunately, there is no reliable adhesive that can used in conjunction with fiberglass cloth to build a reinforcing patch over a crack. There are adhesives making such claims but results continue to be mixed. However, if your boat is laid up due to such a crack and the option doesn’t exist to replace it, there’s not much to lose in trying some of the new “wonder” adhesives. If you give this a try, it’s best to retire the boat from demanding waters and just use it on friendlier protected waters as there’s no easy way to tell how effective your repair is or will be.

Improved results in terms of getting adhesion between repair and hull are obtained by first sanding the hull surface to create a texture and then “flaming” the hull in the area to be repaired. Flaming consists of passing a torch or open flame back and forth over the hull, keeping the flame moving at all times and removing it before the material shows any sign of melting. For best results you should be prepared to proceed with the repair immediately after flaming the surface.

The patching process consists of spreading a layer of adhesive or resin on the interior of the hull over the crack and extending about 1” beyond the edges of the crack. Then take a cut to fit piece of fiberglass cloth and embed it into the adhesive or resin you just placed on the hull. Next spread a layer of adhesive over the patch cloth and lay a second patch on top of the first, allowing the edges to overlap the first layer by about an inch. Again spread a layer of adhesive over the 2nd patch layer. Continue adding layers until hull is consistently stiff between repaired area and unrepaired area.

All patch layers should be placed on the interior of the hull and the exterior of the crack should be covered by the polyethylene drip method described earlier. Placing patch layers on the exterior of the hull is just asking for them to be peeled off by encountering sand bars, gravel bars or other obstructions on the water.

Again, be conservative in how you use your repaired canoe. Inevitably, the repaired section of hull will be more rigid than other areas and therein lies one of the challenges of polyethylene repair: the innate flexibility of the material. Poly can distend, bend, distort, deflect, etc., very easily (in fact, that’s one of the “secrets” of its durability). It “absorbs” impact by flexing away from it. The challenge is finding a material that is as elastic as the poly so that it can bend and distort equally and not separate from the hull.

Polyethylene has a memory and if stressed, will usually rebound to its original shape once that stress is removed. However, depending on the duration and the power or strength of that stress, the hull material may not be as able to recover its form as readily. A depressed area in the hull has come to be known as a “wow” and the area can be fairly sizable, perhaps 2’ sq. ft. or more.

In most cases this is not a structural issue (unless the hull material flops back and forth while underway) and is more cosmetic in nature. An unfair hull surface is less efficient moving through the water but the impact is often minor or unnoticeable.

If you do want to restore the original hull shape there are a couple of ways to proceed. One is to take a heat gun (a hair dryer will not do) and carefully heat the area from the outside while pushing against the hull from the inside. Once the hull becomes more flexible remove heat and sustain the “push” from the inside while the material cools and firms up. Hopefully, it will hold the desired shape.

Another way to address this is to place the canoe right side up, making sure the area of the hull to be reshaped is not firmly against ground or floor. Fill some flexible bags with very hot water and place them on the area to be reshaped. The heat and the weight of the water can help reform the hull to proper shape.

Dents in areas with a lot of curve or shape, such as on the stems (ends) of the hull can be more stubborn to repair as the material has more rigidity and structure there due to that curvature and shape. The best hope is to heat the area with a heat gun and push out from the inside. It helps to have a “pusher” shaped to match the width of the stem as this will help align the repaired area with the original.

Due to the triple layer construction, it is very very rare that a Triple Tough hull will crack all the way through. Usually the crack will be isolated to the inner or outer skin and in both cases, the best remedy is the poly drip method (See POLYETHYLENE REPAIR: CRACKS AND FRACTURES).

It is important to make sure there is no moisture trapped within the foam core of the hull before you repair it. It is a good idea to take a hair-dryer and warm the area around the fracture to evacuate any residual moisture. Any moisture you trap inside the core can cause damage as it contracts and expands with temperature changes. It is far better to eliminate the potential all together.

While the triple layer construction provides added stiffness, it can still be dented or depressed due to impact or sustained weight or pressure. Heating the area and pushing it back to original shape is the best option, but the foam-cored construction limits the efficacy of a heat gun to reshape the hull. The foam core basically acts as an insulator making it difficult to warm the opposite solid skin to a malleable temperature. Better results can be had by using the hot water technique, though be ready to refill and replace the hot water several times (see REPAIRING POLYETHYLENE: DENTS).

With triple tough construction, some dents may occur when the foam core is dented or compressed to the point where it cannot rebound, as its individual cells have been crushed beyond recovery. If this is the case, it’s either live with it or reinforce the interior side of the hull with adhesive or resin and fiberglass cloth (see REPAIRING POLYETHYLENE: CRACKS AND FRACTURES). However, this process will not restore the exterior surface to its original shape but will only strengthen that particular area.

* The following are retired gunwale systems as of 2011. These are the pictures and short descriptions from the 2010 catalog. For more information, continue scrolling through articles tagged "Retired gunwale systems".

IQ

Aluminum gunwale with dual channels to allow repositioning of seats and installation (and removal) of modular accessories. Hidden fasteners for clean, sleek appearance and nothing to snag our hand on. Moderately light and very stiff to maximize hull efficiency. Minimal maintenance.

IQ2

Vinyl gunwale version of the IQ. Features two channels as original IQ and provides same capabilities except for movable seats. Moderate to heavy weight with moderate stiffness with internal aluminum "L" insert. Maintenance free.

Aluminum (for Royalex)

Slightly “beefier” than our aluminum rail for composite canoes. Designed to minimize weight and maximize efficiency in select cruising Royalex canoes. Light to moderate in weight and high stiffness. Minimal maintenance.

The Sprayshield is designed for multiple purposes.

One is to increase the heavy weather capability of your canoe by providing what amounts to an oversized deck to your boat.
The ‘Shield is equipped with bow-stays to provide an arched shape to shed water and waves.
The ‘Shield will also keep rain and sun off your legs and lap when paddling and is “collapsible,” allowing it to be pushed out of the way when not desired yet firmly attached to the canoe.
The Sprayshield was originally intended to fit the bow of your canoe. In many cases, it can also be used on the stern of the boat as the stern seat can be moved forward to accommodate it if necessary.
Zippered design provides quick and easy installation and removal.

Look for additional sizes of Sprayshields to become available, which may increase your options, depending on model of canoe paddled.

The Sprayshield comes in two parts. There is the cover with boltrope sewn to one side and a second length of bolt rope to which zipper has been sewn. The boltrope is sized so that the round bead fits into the slot on the outside of the IQ Gunwale.
There is a widened slot in the gunwale just behind the deck on each gunwale to allow the boltrope to be inserted.
From bow of canoe, slide boltrope with zipper into outside channel on starboard (right) side of hull. First insert end with zipper starter and slide boltrope completely into channel.
Insert bolt rope attached to cover into outside channel on port (left) side of canoe, making sure to start with end of cover with zipper starter. Insert full length of boltrope into channel.
Mate the zipper starters and zip parts together. It is easier to make zipper slide if you do so with cover untensioned. Start with cover positioned towards bow of canoe and zip completely.
Once cover is fully zipped, slide back onto canoe to desired position. Tighten elastic cord at bow end of cover to secure around your deck.
The cover can be pushed forward or pulled back or somewhat compressed while installed if you require less coverage depending upon weather, water, or wave conditions.
To access contents, unzip zipper enough to allow access to desired gear and flip cover out of the way. Once you have obtained what you needed, rezip the cover closed.
To remove cover, gently pull cover towards the end of canoe. With stays on cover relaxed, unzip zipper. If zipper binds at stay intersection, rezip it a couple of inches and pull quickly past stay. Remove both components from channel and stow securely.

NOTE: IT IS REQUIRED THAT ALL IQ MODULES SUCH AS THE BOW SPRAYSHIELD BE REMOVED BEFORE CARTOPPING YOUR CANOE. Do not sit or stand on the Sprayshield and avoid placing heavy items on top of it as well.

NOTE: While Sprayshield does not have to be removed while portaging your canoe, be aware that it may limit your vision if left installed while portaging.

NOTE: As with the addition of any outfitting component to a canoe, the possibility exists of increased risk of entrapment. Be aware of this possibility and practice to minimize it is strongly recommended.

The Sprayshield is designed for multiple purposes. One is to increase the heavy weather capability of your canoe by providing what amounts to an oversized deck to your boat. The ‘Shield is equipped with bow-stays to provide an arched shape to shed water and waves. The ‘Shield will also keep rain and sun off your legs and lap when paddling and is “collapsible,” allowing it to be pushed out of the way when not desired yet remain firmly attached to the canoe.

The Sprayshield was originally intended to fit the bow of your canoe. In many cases, it can also be used on the stern of the boat as the stern seat can be moved forward to accommodate it if necessary.

Zippered design provides quick and easy installation and removal. Sprayshield includes 4 mounting hooks and screws. 1/8”, 3/16” drill bits, drill, Phillips head screwdriver, & 3/8” or adjustable wrench will be required to complete installation.

Look for additional sizes of Sprayshields to become available, which may increase your options, depending on model of canoe paddled.

The Sprayshield comes in two parts. There is the cover with boltrope sewn to one side and a second length of bolt rope to which zipper has been sewn. The boltrope is sized so that the round bead fits into the slot on the outside of the IQ Gunwale.
There is a widened slot in each exterior gunwale just behind the deck to allow the boltrope to be inserted.
From bow of canoe, slide boltrope with zipper into outside channel on starboard (right) side of hull. First insert end with zipper starter and slide boltrope completely into channel.
Insert bolt rope attached to cover into outside channel on port (left) side of canoe, making sure to start with end of cover with zipper starter. Insert full length of boltrope into channel.
Mate the zipper starters and zip parts together. It is easier to make zipper slide if you do so with cover untensioned. Start with cover positioned towards bow of canoe and zip completely.
Once cover is fully zipped, slide back onto canoe to desired position. Align the front of sprayshield over deck of canoe. Mark location of the center of each of the two “holes” on sides of cover on sides of deck.
Hold molded hook against lower flange on side of deck at mark with hook facing down. Butt opposite end of fitting against raised panel on side of deck. Mark location of mounting hole.
At sternmost location on each side, drill a 1/8” hole. At forward locations, drill 3/16” holes.
At sternmost location on each side mount hook with 8-32 x 1” self tapping screw. At forward locations, use 8-32 x 1” machine screw, secured on inside of deck with locknut. Make sure hook faces down.
Clip cut-outs on lower edge of sprayshield over hook end of fitting. This will keep sprayshield firmly down on top of deck.
The cover can be pushed forward or pulled back or somewhat compressed while installed if you require less coverage depending upon weather, water, or wave conditions.
To access contents, unzip zipper enough to allow access to desired gear and flip cover out of the way. Once you have obtained what you needed, rezip the cover closed.
To remove cover, gently pull cover towards the end of canoe. Unclip edge of sprayshield from molded hooks. With stays on cover relaxed, unzip zipper. If zipper binds at stay intersection, rezip it a couple of inches and pull quickly past stay. Remove both components from channel and stow securely.

NOTE: While Sprayshield does not have to be removed while portaging your canoe, be aware that it may limit your vision if left installed while portaging.

NOTE: As with the addition of any outfitting component to a canoe, the possibility exists of increased risk of entrapment. THE SPRAYSHIELD IS NOT INTENDED TO BE USED IN SIGNIFICANT WHITEWATER. Sprayshields are not intended to replace flotation bags. The presence of a sprayshield can actually increase possibility of a canoe being caught on an obstruction and can also make rescue and retrieval more difficult. Be aware of this possibility and practicing to minimize it is strongly recommended or better yet, eliminate the potential all together.

To test fit a PFD, first loosen all adjusting web straps to their maximum. Put the PFD on and if it has a zipper, zip the zipper. Then, starting from the bottom (waist band), cinch tight each web strap, being careful to equally tighten equivalent straps on the right and left side of the PFD. Once all straps are tightened, hold your arms out horizontally from your body and windmill them (move in circles). What you’re looking for here is a lack of obstruction of movement or ride-up. After windmilling your arms, rotate from your torso to the right and to the left first with arms outstretched and next with hands tucked into armpits. These movements should reveal any conflicts between PFD and body that might exist.

Sit on a bench or upright chair and gauge how the PFD feels when you’re in your paddling position. Is it too long and bunch up under your arm pits? Does the front bow out obstructing vision?

Last, grasp the PFD on the front of the shoulder straps and lift upwards aggressively. If the PFD slips up and over your shoulders easily, it should be avoided. You may find it sufficient to further tighten some of the straps on the PFD to minimize this tendency or perhaps consider a different size or style.

When ordering replacement vinyl gunwale be sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

Canoes are measured straight down the keel line. Gunwales take a bit more circuitous route getting from end to end. Vinyl rails are available to fit canoes up to 17'6” long, depending on length of decks. All Mad River vinyl gunwales include an "L" shaped aluminum insert to add strength and structure to the rail and are pre-bent on a curve that will allow fit on a majority of canoes. Place orders for replacement gunwales through your authorized Mad River dealer.

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

Composite (fiberglass or Kevlar® hulls) differ in thickness from Royalex® If you are unsure of model or material, bring your boat to the dealer, they can usually identify the model and material. If this is not practical, the serial number on your canoe will be helpful. Serial numbers are located on the right side of the stern of the hull just below the gunwale. It will either be engraved on a small brass plate or stamped directly into the hull. If difficult to read, make a rubbing by holding a piece of paper against hull and scraping a pencil point across paper. The number should be revealed on reverse side of paper.

A complete re-rail installation will require 2 vinyl gunwales.

Unlike ash gunwales which utilize an inside rail and an outside rail on each side, vinyl gunwales are a unibody construction in which the inside and outside gunwales are incorporated into one piece. Make sure that both gunwales include an internal “L” shaped aluminum insert.

In most cases, the decks on vinyl-railed canoes can be saved and reused with new rails.

This assumes the new rails have the same or similar profile and dimensions as the old rails. If you are replacing ash gunwales with vinyl, your canoe will require the addition of appropriate rotomolded decks and hardware.

Due to their length, vinyl gunwales cannot be shipped via UPS.

The best alternative is to arrange shipment of gunwales to accompany a shipment of boats to your local dealer.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: (for complete re-rail)

2 Gunwales of adequate length
70 +/- #8 x 1” self – tapping screws (quantity needed depends on length of canoe)
8 HA/A612D Black rivets (or equivalent: Buttonhead aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels
(5/32" diameter); grip range: 3/16" to ¼"; Hole diameter .160 to .164)
8 3/16” stainless flat washers

All above materials are available from Mad River Canoe Authorized Dealers

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Rubber Mallet
Electric Drill
Non permanent Marker
Pop Rivet Gun
17/64" Drill Bit
Duct Tape
3/8" Wrench
3/8" Drill Bit
1/8” Square Drive Bit
7/16" Wrench
13/64" Drill Bit
20' Tape Measure
Hack Saw
6 3" C Clamps
Putty Knife

NOTE: Additional hardware and/or tools may be required to complete replacement or rehabilitation of your canoe depending upon model, material, age. Mad River has been building canoes for over 30 years and many changes and improvements have been made during that time. For example, until 1998-99, Mad Rivers' used ¼” hardware to mount seats, yokes, etc. Since that time MRC has used 3/16” hardware to save weight and allow improvements such as double bolting yokes for increased integrity. While the instructions may specify specific drill bits, please be aware that other sizes may in fact be necessary as needed.

SUMMARY PROCESS

Vinyl gunwale replacement starts with marking on the inside of the hull of the original locations for seats, yoke, thwart, carry handle, etc. Gunwales can then be removed by drilling out rivets or backing out screws used to secure them to hull.

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Run tape measure along hull below gunwale and mark center point on hull. Measure gunwales to confirm they are of sufficient length to cover length of hull. Check to make sure aluminum inserts are in place inside vinyl gunwale and ends are flush. If re-rail requires removal of existing gunwales follow steps below:
- Mark placement of seats, thwarts, and yokes on side of canoe hull with marker. This will provide a reference for replacement of these parts when new gunwales are installed.
- Mark original rivet or screw locations on hull below gunwale. When fastening new rails in place these marks will serve to space new rivet locations. It is preferable to use new holes rather than enlarge the existing holes with the new rails. Enlarged holes can result in rails becoming slightly loose over time.
- If original gunwales are secured by rivets, drill out rivets using properly sized drill bit. Older Mad River Canoe gunwale rivets can be removed by using a 13/64” drill bit. Drill bit should be same diameter as the rivet shank. Drill from outside hull positioning end of drill bit in center of rivet head. Drill until flange of rivet head separates from rivet stem. It may be necessary to poke rivet stem through hull to dislodge rivet.
- For wooden gunwales: Back out screws, starting at one end of hull and proceeding towards other end and continuing down other gunwale to return to end where started.
- Drill or unscrew fasteners securing the decks to the canoe.
- When all fasteners are free, pry up on decks and remove. This should also free gunwales along hull. On wooden gunwales, outwale will drop free when final fasteners are removed.

Place decks onto hull, making sure inside of end of deck fits snugly against the outside of stem of canoe. Tamp with rubber mallet to seat properly. With a pencil, mark outside of the hull at rear edge of the deck on both sides. Also mark point on deck defining how much overlap of deck over gunwale will occur. Remove decks after making marks.
Run tape measure along top edge of hull following outside surface of hull. Start measure at the mark defining end of gunwales under the deck overlap and measure to mark at opposite end defining same location. Double check measurement as this will be length you will cut new gunwales.
Cut new gunwales to measurement made in step 3. Mark center point on each new gunwale.
Position new gunwale on hull, matching center point marked on hull to point marked on gunwale. Narrow side of gunwale goes to the outside of the hull and wide side to inside to provide mounting point for hanging seats, thwarts, and yokes. Start at center and push gunwale fully down onto hull, working towards one end. Tamp gunwale down with mallet to fully seat onto top of hull and use clamps to hold gunwale down in place. Once you have one end on hull, return to center and work towards the other end. You may find that slipping a putty knife up under edge of gunwale will help it slide over the top of hull. You can also use duct tape to help hold the gunwale down. Leave about the last 3' of the gunwale free to be able to be raised.
Lift the ends of the gunwales from the hull and insert into decks until ends of deck are close to marks made on hull in step 2. Lower the gunwales onto hull and allow end of deck to fit over stem of canoe. Tamp end of deck back onto hull and over rails until end of deck is aligned with marks on hull. Tape deck firmly down onto top of hull with duct tape.
Step back and "eyeball" the gunwale. Look for any rises or humps that would indicate gunwale is not seated completely on hull. Tamp down and secure any section of rail necessary.
Along gunwale sections, refer to the marks locating the original rivet locations. Place evenly spaced marks between old rivet locations. These will be locations for new fasteners. It is not recommended to use original hardware locations.
At decks, mark point on the outside edge of the deck 1" from point where gunwale is inserted. Make next mark 3” towards end of canoe from first mark. Move to end of canoe and make a mark 1" from end of deck. Make a fourth mark 2" from tip of deck. Repeat on other side of deck. This will provide 4 fasteners (2 self-tapping screws and 2 rivets) on each side of deck. Check to make sure that the two marks at wide end of deck are positioned to engage the overlap of the deck and the gunwale. If necessary, adjust position slightly to engage both gunwale and deck.
Confirm that gunwales are firmly seated against top of canoe hull. Beginning at center of hull, insert self-tapping square drive screw onto drive bit and place tip in groove running down center of gunwale flange on the outside of hull. Drive screw through flange, hull, and into interior gunwale box. Be careful not to drive head of screw through the flange. If this occurs, back screw out and install a flat washer on screw and re-drive or reposition screw to new location.
Working towards one end of canoe, drive screws at each marked location, pressing down on top of gunwale at each position to make sure it is fully seated on hull.
When you reach the deck, drive self-tapping screws at marks where deck overlaps gunwale.
Return to center and proceed to fasten other half of gunwale in same fashion.
Repeat for gunwale on opposite side of hull.
Install 13/64” bit on drill and drill through each deck at remaining two marks on each side.
Insert rivet into each remaining hole. Place flat washer over end of rivet on inside of canoe and push washer flat against inside of hull.
Place rivet gun over shank of rivet and pull trigger. Make sure to keep head of gun pushed firmly up against outside of deck to get best attachment.
Using marks on hull as reference, re-hang seats, thwarts, yokes, etc. Drill ¼” holes through top of gunwale placing point of drill bit along indented seam in top of gunwale. Use existing hardware. (If hardware was damaged during removal, replacements can be obtained from authorized Mad River Canoe dealers.)
Tighten hardware snugly. Do not over-tighten.
Wipe off marks on hull used to locate seats and hardware.

Mad River Canoe's RTG outfitting systems, offered on the Outrage and Outrage X whitewater playboats, is designed to enable paddlers to get their new boats on the water without delay and without sacrificing performance.

The core of the RTG is the adjustable TKO pedestal which is secured by cam straps to a series of tie down points on the Daisy Chain D-rings. This system allows the user to refine their paddling position to their personal preferences as well as accommodating multiple paddlers of varying sizes. The pedestal position can vary by as much as 12”, providing a dialed in trim best suited to individual paddlers.

2” wide padded thigh straps with hip-mounted quick release buckles provide security as well as comfort. The hip-mounted buckles ensure that the thigh straps can be easily released from just about any position.

Contoured whitewater playboat knee pads cradle the knees, providing cushioning and enhanced security of position. The raised inner sides of the knee pads prevent knee slippage, keeping the paddler best positioned to maneuver and control their canoe.

Durable, elastic, vinyl 3D flotation bags fill the bow and stern, providing maximum displacement of water. The vertical nose seam of the end bags tucks well up into the ends of the canoe and minimizes the amount of water that can find a home inside the hull. The float bags are restrained by over the top lashing systems affixed to tie downs secured to the gunwales.

For maximum performance, paddlers have the option of the RTG+ Outfitting System. Utilizing the same pedestal, thigh straps and knee pads featured in the RTG, the upgraded outfitting system replaces the vinyl float bags with ultralight, ultrastrong nylon float bags as well as a cam strap Keeper Strap to keep the bags snug down onto the bottom of the hull. In addition, RTG+ adds adjustable footbraces for maximum boat control. The footbraces move in concert with the pedestal so that fit is always consistent.
Mad River's RTG Outfitting Systems have stood the test of time, having been offered since the Outrages were introduced in the late 1990s and are perfect for paddlers who are inexperienced in outfitting as well as rental and school operations where the ability to tailor the fit to various paddlers is critical.

Buying a properly fitting PFD is probably the most important purchase of all. After all, this is one piece of gear that can literally save your life. It is required to have in your possession whenever you go out on the water. The US and Canadian coast guards take this requirement very seriously (they will impound your boat and its contents if rules aren't followed).

The US and Canadian Coast Guards classify PFDs into 5 different categories. The most appropriate category for canoeing is the TYPE III PFD. These are vest style life preservers that are designed to float an unconscious wearer face up in the water. The vest style means added security in the fit of the PFD on the paddler. When properly secured it is highly unlikely that the PFD can come off of the paddler.

Cushions and throwable PFDs should not be relied upon as canoeing PFDs. A cushion can provide a padded seat for a passenger but that passenger should be wearing a Type III lifejacket as well. Cushions can be very easily torn away from a swimmer’s grasp in current or wind or waves and the handles of the cushions also pose a hazard of getting snagged on river obstructions which could trap both swimmer and cushion in a nasty situation.

When shopping for a PFD, make sure it is UL (United States) or ULC (Canada) approved. Interior labels will show the UL label mark and attest to the PFD’s approval. For a PFD to acquire UL approval is an arduous process that encompasses the design of the PFD, the materials (down to the thread used), and the assembly techniques. All aspects of the PFD must meet strict standards. Design standards address details such as the amount of foam and the placement thereof to ensure that the PFD will orient the wearer properly in the water and has enough buoyancy to support the wearer. In water testing is conducted using subjects of various body shapes to make sure the PFD remains in proper position on the wearer in the water.

All components must be approved for use in a PFD, from buckles to foam to fabric to webbing to thread. Those components in turn must be assembled in a specific way as defined by the approved “book” each manufacturer provides to UL. The “book” defines how seams are constructed, stitches per inch, how the foam is cut and trimmed, even how the labels are attached. UL inspectors will visit manufacturing facilities and will dissemble a sample PFD to confirm that it is built to specifications.

Legally, if a life vest does not show the UL or ULC mark it will not satisfy USCG or CCG regulations for PFDs. Such non-approved jackets are termed buoyancy-aids, not PFDs.

So, beyond the UL or ULC mark (or in Europe the CE designation) what should you look for in a PFD?

A PFD is of no use if it is not worn. Simple truth, so one of your priorities is to find a PFD that is comfortable and non-binding, so you’ll have less excuse not to wear it. One of the components that can make a PFD more or less comfortable is the foam. Lesser expensive PFDs use a stiffer, boardier foam whereas more expensive PFDs utilize a softer more pliant foam that can better conform to the paddlers body. It’s not as if the lesser expensive PFDs opt for the stiffer foam, it’s simply a cheaper foam. The softer foam can be cinched in nicely in line with your body, making the PFD non-obtrusive when paddling and allowing maximum freedom of movement. Some mid price PFDs will use soft foam front panels and the stiffer foam in the back panel. Both foams will do the job, UL and ULC have seen to that, it just comes down to a matter of cost and target selling price.

The shell of the PFD is another place you’re likely to find some differences to consider. Lighter duty, less expensive PFDs will rely on a lighter nylon shell compared to more expensive PFDs who may feature fabrics as stout as 1000 denier Cordura© nylon. Again, all the shell materials are approved and are reliable but the key is longevity. Your heavier fabrics will simply outlast lighter fabrics both on the river and it terms of simple exposure to environmental hazards such as UV (ultraviolet light degradation). The heavier fabric will provide a longer useful lifetime despite the higher initial cost.

The adjustment and security systems built into a PFD will also impact cost, with the more elaborate providing more fine tuning capability but also added cost. Many Type IIIs at the bottom of the price spectrum rely on 3 web straps across the chest to secure the PFD and on calm waters that may suffice whereas on rough or turbulent waters, the security provided by the 3 straps may not be sufficient.

Some PFDs also feature adjustable shoulder straps which is a nice feature and allows you to customize how your PFD rides on your chest, high and tight or a bit looser and lower on hot days.

PFDs that utilize a zipper as well as straps provide a marked improvement in fit security and in comfort as well. Underarm cinch straps provide fine tune fit adjustment and allow the same PFD to be comfortable worn next to bare skin or over bulky layers of clothing such as pile or fleece. An adjustable waist strap further adds to the fit security and is a key component to preventing the PFD from rising up over your head and face when in the water. As you might imagine, this is not a promising scenario as the PFD goes from a life saving piece of equipment to straight jacket binding the wearer’s arms and eliminating the ability to swim. Testing a potential PFD for “ride up” is one of the essential tests you should make while going through the buying process.

There are a number of different “styles” of PFDs available, from the conventional center front zip entry to what are called pullover styles which are just as they sound, you put them on or off by pulling over your head. The advantage to a pullover style PFD is that they can be low profile due to lack of a zipper and the ability to utilize a larger uninterrupted foam platform. The disadvantage to a pullover is lack of ability to ventilate by opening a zipper and inconvenience putting PFD on and off.

In between are the side zips or offset zip entries which require the user to slide one arm into the PFD rather than both as with a pullover. Just as they sound, these are compromise styles combining the advantages of the security of a pullover with the convenience of a zip front style.

More and more PFDs are featuring pockets and lash tabs which can be nice features but are rarely essential. Such features are often more of interest to kayakers than to canoeists as canoeists have the advantage of easy access to the interior of their boat to retrieve a needed item. A kayaker can be buttoned up in his sprayskirt and less able to hunt up what he needs, so the ability to stash often needed items on the PFD has some merit.

Some PFDs have key clips or locking pockets designed to contain your car keys. This is a long running debate in the paddling community; are your keys better left with your boat or kept with you secured in your PFD? Neither is a perfect answer as either way it’s possible to become separated from your keys. I suspect if you are diligent in always wearing your PFD that attaching them to the jacket makes sense. However, think of the consequences the one time you don’t wear the PFD and the canoe flips and the PFD (with your keys) floats free and heads down river? On the other hand, it’s always possible that your canoe can leave you whether inadvertently due to inattention or in event of a capsize in turbulent conditions.

There are PFDs specifically designed for children and for women as well as more generic styles. Two features particularly worth considering in a Kids PFD is an easily grasped grab loop at top of the back of the PFD and leg loops that run through the child’s crotch and prevent the PFD from riding up. If your child is not yet a swimmer, a flotation pillow that cradles their head is a sensible precaution. Opt for bright colors with children’s PFDs as well to make it easy to see and keep track of your wayward brood.

A specific women’s PFD may be appreciated by bustier women or women with very short torsos but most PFDs can do equal duty for either sex due to the sophisticated design and the soft pliable materials utilized. Still there’s no reason not to satisfy your curiosity and test fit gender specific PFDs.

Wood in various forms has defined the canoe. At times every component of classic indigenous canoes came from the forest; bark for the hull, cedar and other woods for planking and gunwales, spruce root for lashing and lacing. In many ways, the North American bark canoe was far ahead of its time. Consider that the attributes that typified the bark canoe are akin to those we seek in our contemporary canoes: light weight, versatility, durability, high capacity. In many ways the bark canoe can still compete with modern counterparts.

Wood has largely been displaced from use in canoe hulls by new synthetic materials (and some older ones such as aluminum). A lot of this had to do with cost of handcrafting wood hulls but a lot also came down to the necessity of maintaining wooden hulls. Wood requires considerably more time and diligent maintenance than most other materials. Increasing numbers of users found they had neither the time nor the skills nor the inclination to put the necessary time in to maintaining their wood hulls. The lure and appeal of care-free modern materials offering increased durability has consigned wood hulls to a small part of the canoe market.

Yet wood remains a viable and often preferred option for other parts of the canoe, from gunwales to yokes to seats and trusses. In these applications wood remains a strong player and justifiably so. The inherent give and take of wood makes the material the material of choice for things such as yokes and often seats. Wood also lends the canoe a classic and classy refined look that synthetics such as aluminum and vinyl simply can’t match. There’s something special about a hull of the most sophisticated modern materials trimmed out in one of our most traditional materials. One might think the two simply wouldn’t complement each other but in practice they do so, very well.

Of these components, wood gunwales are the most imposing and striking, get the most notice and make the biggest impression. Yet like a wood hull, wooden gunwales require additional care and TLC that aluminum or vinyl gunwales do not. Some may ask the question: Why then wood?

WHY WOOD?

Wood gunwales not only look classic but they do offer some performance advantages over their synthetic counterparts.

Wood has “memory” and will flex under stress and then rebound when that stress is removed, doing its’ best to assume their original shape and form. This tendency can protect a canoe hull from further damage as wood will spread and dissipate the distorting force over a wide area rather than concentrating it.

Wood is not prone to “kinking” upon impact or sustained pressure. Wood will bend on a broad radius under greater force than either aluminum or vinyl. Synthetic gunwales tend to focus this force at one point. The result is a cracked or crimped gunwale. With that force focused on a relatively small area, the hull can be at risk as it has to absorb the energy released when the gunwale gives way. The result can be a torn or fractured hull. As wood flexes along its grain, it absorbs a lot of that destructive energy over a longer area of the hull and this can eliminate or minimize hull damage. Wood is the most easily repaired in the field if disaster strikes. Wood is warm to the touch and quiet when bumped.

Wood is also the most easily repaired gunwale material, particularly in the field or the bush. When wood fails, it is rare to find the break to be entirely perpendicular to the wood grain. Wood tends to splinter along the grain, often leaving two halves with considerable matching surfaces. The amount of surface area is significant as this determines how well the break can be lashed or laced together or glued back together. Synthetics that break 90o at the point of impact are virtually impossible to structurally repair, there is no overlap, no surface area to mate to. In most cases, the best you’ve got to work with are trying to mate up the ends of each piece of gunwale, there’s no overlapping pieces of gunwale to mate together.

Wood is also a quiet gunwale, tending to absorb noise rather than broadcast it. This can be a critical factor to a sporting or photographing paddler stalking fish and game and relying on stealth to get into the best position.

Wood is undeniably a green material compared to the synthetic alternatives, if the species of wood used is available on a sustainable basis. Wood is also quite green at the other end of the life cycle, posing no issues in terms of disposal; use it for firewood (try that with aluminum or vinyl!) or leave it in the woods to rot. The “life” cycle of wood basically is the definition of recycling.

Wood is warm to the touch, there’s not the chill that comes from grabbing an aluminum gunwale when it’s 40o out. It’s also far more comforting and comfortable to the touch than its’ synthetic counterparts. It just feels right to run your hands along a smooth wood gunwale while gazing down river or across a lake.

Wood is also warm to the eye. There’s an elegance and a heritage to it that a synthetic simply can’t hope to match. With wood gunwales, every canoe is a bit different, a bit unique. The more you paddle that canoe the better you come to know it and sense its’ uniqueness. Wood just helps bring that awareness to light.

WHY NOT WOOD?

Obviously, wood’s not a perfect material for gunwales. If it were we wouldn’t have synthetic alternatives to consider. Just what do synthetics bring to the table?

One big advantage to aluminum or vinyl gunwales is simple longevity and lack of maintenance and upkeep. Simply put, these gunwales are “easy”. Once in place they require very little attention. They may fade over time but any impact on integrity from such fading is way, way down the road. They really don’t deteriorate very much over time, needing very little attention or concern. You can pull your canoe out of winter storage for first spring trip without having to think about the condition your gunwales are in. A quick wipe with a rag and maybe some UV protectant if you’re feeling generous, and you’re ready to go for another season.

Another advantage of aluminum gunwales in particular is lighter weight and greater stiffness. These attributes are particularly meaningful if you’re paddling an ultralight touring or tripping canoe where ounces are critical and efficiency the highest measure of performance. An aluminum railed canoe can be as much as 5 lbs lighter than a wood gunwaled counterpart depending on specie of wood used. A differential of 2 to 4 lbs is more commonly achieved.

Aluminum is stiffer than wood and can provide the necessary rigidity via a smaller cross section of gunwale than can wood. Less surface area equates to less mass to less weight, especially when the stiffness necessary to eliminate hull flex is achieved. If this is your priority, aluminum gunwales are a prime choice.

Vinyl gunwales are pretty weight comparable to wood gunwales so no real advantage there. They require minimal maintenance which is often considered an advantage and they have some flex to them, making them better suited to royalex hulls and whitewater/down river canoes than aluminum. So when it comes to canoes of this type, required maintenance is the key differential.

Wood gunwales on a royalex hull can increase the chances of cold cracks IF they are not maintained. I don’t know if this is a disadvantage of wood gunwales so much as it is a matter of lack of diligence of the canoe owner. If you go into the game knowing the rules, you’re far more likely to succeed and not encounter problems than if you don’t know or ignore the rules. Face it, wood gunwales require some TLC; not much but definitely more than the synthetic options.

Wood gunwales are also usually more costly than synthetic alternatives. These costs are usually tied to the processing and shaping of the wood stock and the craftsmanship required to properly install a wood gunwale. It’s a bit more complex and challenging than riveting or screwing a synthetic gunwale in place.

All these rationale and reasonings are based on the fact that we’re comparing wood gunwales in good condition to synthetic alternatives. All bets are off if wood gunwales are allowed to deteriorate. They lose their flexibility and resilience, two of their primary attributes worthy of consideration. If you do opt for wood and do not opt in for the necessary maintenance, you will be disappointed with the performance and the results. If you treat the gunwales right, you will be rewarded for your choice. Maintenance will likely require the commitment of a ½ hour or less several times a year. When you think about it, that’s not exactly an overwhelming demand on your time is it? Nor are the skills required confined to woodworkers or artisans. A bit of sanding and in effect, painting, is all that’s usually required if you stay with the program.

WHY ASH?

Mad River Canoe has relied on native white ash for gunwales since the company first started producing canoes in 1971 in Vermont. The fact that Northern White Ash is endemic to the forests of the Green Mountains was a fortuitous coincidence. Ash has a multitude of characteristics that make it near ideal for this application.

Ash is a straight and long grained hardwood, allowing it to be used in long thin strips such as a gunwale, without losing strength or flexibility. It’s not uncommon to see Mad River canoes where you can trace a grain line from bow all the way to stern. This is desirable in that fractures tend to follow grain lines and the longer the grain the less severe a fracture can be as the energy is dissipated over the course of the grain.

Ash also has a relatively low incidence of knots which cause a disruption and distortion in the grain and potential weak point in the wood structure. A knot is like a natural stress riser in the wood, creating a weak point that allows concentration rather than dissipation of stress or force.

Ash is a hardwood so it has decent resistance to impact and is not inclined to dent. Hardwoods also tend to be stiffer than softwoods and more rot resistant. As ash is a softer hardwood than maple or oak, it is not as decay resistant as harder hardwoods but is considerably lighter and more limber.

Ash is not as light as softwoods such as cedar or spruce but is considerably stronger and more durable. It is more abundant and sustainable than cherry as well as straighter grained.

Ash is also very green in that it is readily available on a sustained basis. The majority of ash comes from certified sustainable forests in the Northeast and does not require lengthy transportation as would be encountered with an imported hardwood or wood that has to be shipped across the country.

WHY OIL?

Mad River Canoe has used penetrating oil as the protective finish on our ash gunwales since the early 1970s rather than a varnish or shellac finish. Due to their both their dimensions (long and skinny) and their application, canoe gunwales flex constantly while in use. This comes from the “give” built into canoe hulls to make them able to absorb impact and abrasion as well as the simple length to width ratio of a gunwale. Any wood cut into a strip up to 20’ long by ¾” thick will have some whip and flex to it. Even getting your canoe to and from the water creates flex and vibration in the gunwale as it rides on top of your car or on a trailer and then on your shoulders as you walk.

That flex is deadly to a surface coat such as varnish. A varnish is essentially a barrier coat to isolate the underlying wood from exterior moisture. As such, it relies a solid consistent unbroken surface layer to do its’ job. The constant flex of a canoe gunwale in effect attacks that top coat, creating a multitude of small fractures in the varnish. These cracks allow moisture to seep through the varnish coat and be absorbed by the wood underneath. This in turn leads to deterioration from within as that moisture then cannot be evaporated back into the atmosphere as the varnish creates a barrier coat in reverse.

Left untouched, this process results in ever widening fractures and fissures in the varnish as the moisture penetrates further into the gunwale, lifting the varnish and exposing more of the gunwale to the atmosphere. The trapped moisture discolors the gunwale and worse, basically rots the gunwale from within.

You can try to re-varnish the gunwale to restore the protection but to do so properly you have to sand off the original coat and also address the discoloration and moist wood beneath it. This is a lot more time consuming and frustrating than renewing an oil finish.

MRC’s Gunwale Guard is a penetrating oil that soaks into the wood structure to provide water resistance. Because it is absorbed into the wood fibers, it moves in concert with them when they move. As such, it is far more tolerant of flex and change than a varnish finish. It won’t have the luster or sheen of a varnish but it does provide a deeper degree of protection than a varnish finish and it is more readily and easily renewed than a varnish.

Another advantage of the oiled finish is its’ durability in terms of bumps and impacts. A sharp impact can easily fracture the varnish top coat on a gunwale, such as banging the gunwale on a river rock or even dropping the boat onto it’s side at the end of a portage. Even seemingly slight abrasion such as might be encountered by dragging the canoe on its’ side prior to hoisting it onto your shoulders for a carry can compromise the varnish barrier.

Gunwale Guard is specifically developed for a marine environment and for use on canoe gunwales. Oil finishes such as linseed oil offer similar protection but are not as durable or long lasting as Gunwale Guard.

WHY VARNISH ON MY SEATS & YOKES?

Varnish is an appropriate and effective finish for these components simply due to their size. There is far less comparative flex in a yoke or seat frame than there is in a gunwale. As they are positioned in the interior of the canoe, they are also much less susceptible to bumps and bangs than are the gunwales so that the varnish top coat remains intact.

Though canoes have no or very few moving parts, it still is worth it to lavish a little TLC on your canoe before retiring it for its well-deserved winters nap.

Winterizing the Gunwales

Wood gunwales should be protected for storage by applying a coat of Gunwale Guard preservative prior to storage. However, don't make the mistake of thinking that splashing a coat of Gunwale Guard on your gunwales just before you put the boat up for winter will do the trick. Surprisingly as it may seem, might be the worst thing to do.

The reason being is after a canoe has been used all spring, summer, and fall or left outside between uses, it's likely to have absorbed some moisture, particularly if you haven't been diligent in keeping the gunwales well oiled. If this is the case, and you slap on a coat of oil all you've done is trap that moisture inside the gunwale. This can lead to deterioration of the gunwale from the inside out, the development of mildew, and an increased potential for cold cracks (click here for more information on cold cracks) if your canoe is Royalex.

It is critical to make sure your gunwale is thoroughly dry before you apply the “winter” coat of Gunwale Guard. Bring your canoe inside, out of the weather and humidity and let it sit for a couple of weeks. If that's not a viable option, wait for a succession of nice, crisp, dry fall days and hook up a hair dryer and work your way up and down the boat blow-drying the gunwales. Then apply the Gunwale Guard immediately.

To minimize the chances of cold cracks, it's recommended to remove the majority of screws connecting the gunwales to your hull.

Vinyl Gunwales are much simpler to prep for winter. Wipe them down with a household cleanser and wipe dry. Apply a UV Protectant such as 303 per the manufacturers' instructions. Not only will this protect your gunwales from becoming brittle but it will also restore the full black color of the gunwales.

Aluminum Gunwales can also benefit from a cleaning and then inspect for any chips or scratches through the anodized coating. If not sealed, these dings can result in corrosion and the lifting of neighboring edges of the anodization. Obtain a color matched enamel paint. You're not liable to need much. I've had success using the little bottles of paint that are used for model airplanes and cars. Lightly sand the damaged area to remove any residual corrosion and wipe clean with a mild solvent like denatured alcohol. Apply coat of paint, extending a bit beyond the edges of the damage. Let dry thoroughly and then apply a second thin coat, extending a little further beyond the first coat. I will figure out how far I need to apply paint and will lightly sand the gunwale surface to be painted with 220 grit sandpaper to improve the bond between paint and gunwale.

Seats, Thwarts, Yokes, etc.

In most cases, little needs to be done to protect these pieces as they tend to actually receive little exposure to UV and the elements. They're either flipped over face down most of the time or covered by your posterior when in use.

This is a good time though to inspect the overall condition of your seats, etc., so there's no unpleasant surprises when the paddling bug hits hard next spring.

Inspect the condition of the cane or web seating surfaces for wear and tear or for failure. Look not only at the part of the seat that bears your weight but also for where it attaches to the seat frame. You may catch a failure in its' early stages and be able to repair it.

If repair or replace is in order, in most cases it is as cost effective and more time effective to replace the entire seat than to try to install new cane. If you opt to replace the seat, keep your old seat to use as a template as replacement seats are sold uncut and have to be trimmed to fit.
On all varnished wood parts such as yokes, seats, thwarts, etc. check for worn spots or scratches and touch these up with a varnish such as an exterior polyurethane or spar varnish.

Now is also a good time to snug up all connecting hardware. A word of caution, don't overtighten the bolts, it's sufficient to drive them up snug, not rigid. Stainless steel for all its' strength is also a touch brittle and it is possible to break the bolts if overtightened.

Storage Position

The best canoe storage is upside-down in a cool, dry place. The canoe must be off the ground. A rack or sawhorses works well, but some protection can be obtained by using foam blocks. Cinder blocks aren't the best choice as they will absorb moisture that can be wicked into the gunwales over time. If you want to suspend the canoe from above, make sure the canoe's weight is resting evenly on the gunwales.

Do not store heavy objects on top of the canoe, and do not store a canoe on its side. Both will cause the hull to deform over time. If it will be exposed to wind, make sure your canoe is securely tied. Inside storage is preferred-it protects the hull from temperature extremes and exposure to rain or snow as well as UV. Do not store your canoe a direct source of heat (e.g. a furnace): high temperatures are as detrimental as extreme cold and can soften, distort and even melt a polyethylene or Royalex hull.

If outside storage is necessary and a cover is desired, some precautions are needed. Make sure the cover will withstand snow loads or heavy rain. A plastic cover will protect the canoe from light precipitation and exposure, but do not allow the plastic to touch the hull. Leave the downwind end open for air circulation; moisture trapped between the cover and the canoe will discolor the hull. Some gray weathering of wood gunwales will occur with outside storage.

Composite Canoe Winter Storage

Composite canoes need relatively little attention when being prepped for winter. It's a good idea to give the hull a cleaning followed by a wipe down with 303 protectant.

More important is the position in which it is stored. Do not store leaning on its' side leaning against a wall as this will often result in a flattening of the side of canoe bearing the boats's weight. Most times this will work itself out when canoe is moved for spring and pressure is released but there's no guarantee and no reason to chance it.

Store the canoe upside down with gunwales in slings or resting on sawhorses. Avoid placing anything on top of canoe as this too can distort the hull over time. The 303 will help avoid any fading on a canoe stored outside but if you want to put the boat under cover, rig the cover so that it doesn't contact the hull but is suspended above the canoe. If a waterproof or water repellant cover is placed directly on the hull, moisture from condensation can be trapped between cover and hull and can discolor or mar the gel coat.

There is no need to remove screws in wood gunwales on composite canoes.

Polyethylene Canoe Winter Storage

“Poly” canoes need little prep to be ready for winter. A wash and wipe down with 303 will never hurt before storing your hull. Do not store the canoe on its' side or stack items on top of it as this will distort the hull over time and could result in a canoe with a dent or a “wow” when spring rolls around. Normally these are not permanent but why take the chance?

Store the boat upside down resting on its' gunwales. On the Adventure models with integral molded gunwales it is important to have a broad enough bearing surface that the gunwale is not bent or bowed. If necessary, attach a wider board to your sawhorses or use wider webbing in your slings to lessen this impact.

Royalex Canoe Winter Storage

Royalex ® is a thermoformed composite material consisting of vinyl outer layers, interior ABS plastic layers and foam core layers. It is an extremely durable material, capable of absorbing impacts and distortion without permanent damage. For all its' upsides, Royalex has some inherent properties that require additional attention when putting a Royalex canoe up for winter in areas that experience freezing temperatures. Royalex canoes are particularly at risk for cold cracks.

A splicing section is a 4’ long piece of gunwale that can provide a speedy and cost-effective repair of a damaged wooden gunwale. Splicing sections can repair localized damage on an inwale (inside gunwale), outwale (outside gunwale) or both.

One of the challenges of complete gunwale replacement beyond the cost and the time needed is the fact that full length gunwales can only ship via motor freight. This can create a significant delay in getting your canoe back on the water.

A splicing section is inexpensive and ships via USPS, UPS, FedEx, etc., basically, any express carrier for a very low rate. It can be in your hands within 24 to 48 hours of ordering.

Splicing sections can be ordered kerfed or non-kerfed depending on where used. The kerfed section is intended for use when repairing a damaged outwale on a composite Mad River Canoe.

Splicing sections are best used when there is one break or fracture in a gunwale. If your canoe has suffered multiple breaks over a wider expanse than 4’ it is better to replace the complete gunwale rather than try to splice in multiple splicing sections. You will likely encounter issues in the gunwales’ ability to follow the true curve of the hull if multiple splicing sections are installed.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:

1 or 2 (if repairing both inwale and outwale) splicing section, kerfed or unkerfed.
12 #8 x 1 ¼” screws (for composite canoes) or 12 #8 x 1 ½” screws (for royalex canoes)
(you may be able to re-use existing hardware but given minimal cost, it’s wise to have spares on hand)
Gunwale Guard and/or stain

All above materials are available via your local authorized Mad River Canoe Dealer.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

Saw
4 C-clamps (2 spring or bar clamps are helpful)
Phillips Screwdriver
Masking tape
Waterproof Glue
Protractor with straight edge
Non-permanent Marker
Drill & 1/8" bit
File
#8 Countersink bit
100, 120, 180 grit sandpaper
Pencil

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

Splicing the gunwale consists of replacing a section of broken gunwale while leaving the majority of the gunwale system on the canoe intact. The process begins with clamping the new section underneath the damaged section and marking angled cut locations on old gunwale. Both gunwale sections are cut at same time to ensure proper fit.

After cutting, the screws securing the original gunwale are removed, allowing the section to be removed. The replacement section is screwed into place and ends are glued to ends of remaining original gunwale. Final step is treating the entire gunwale with oil for water protection.

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE
REPLACEMENT OF INDIVIDUAL INWALE OR OUTWALE SECTION

Splicing sections are 4' long. Isolate the damaged rail section and mark at points on either side
where gunwale is intact and sound. On straight sections of gunwale, the marked section can be quite short; on curved sections best results are obtained if the section to be removed is longer. Distance between sound sections of gunwale should not exceed 42"/107 cm.
Cut splicing section approximately 6"/15 cm longer than section of gunwale to be replaced. Run several lengths of masking tape along side of hull under existing gunwale the full length of anticipated repair, overlapping layers of tape to protect hull from teeth of saw blade.
Center and clamp splicing section to underside of existing gunwale to be replaced. Position
clamps to inside of marks on gunwale and at ends of splicing section.
At front or bow mark, use protractor to draw a straight line with pencil across top of gunwale at a 30° angle with leading edge at hull towards bow. This will allow the original gunwale to pin the splicing section against hull.
At back or stern mark duplicate the same angle and orientation. Positioning cut at this angle provides smoother transition from splice to original and poses less danger of catching hands during paddle strokes.
Remove any gunwale screw that bisects your angled line. Carefully cut both original gunwale and splice along line, holding saw vertically. If you are working with a kerfed gunwale, you'll need to careful cut the kerf as well. As you get closer to the hull use a careful and light saw stroke to avoid scratching the hull surface. Cut at other mark as well.
Remove clamps holding splice in position. Mark locations of existing screws on hull below gunwale and back out any gunwale screws between cuts. Damaged original gunwale should be easily dislodged.
Test fit splice into original gunwale. It may be necessary to lightly file ends of splice to get best fit.
Once fit is fine-tuned, apply Gunwale Guard to all surfaces of the splicing section except the ends that have been angle cut. Apply glue to angled ends of both original gunwale and splice and put splice in place. Clamp splice to hold position. Wipe up any glue oozing from joints and/or tape newspaper under splice joint to catch drips.
Using 1/8" bit, drill lead hole for #8 screw through each joint, positioned so that it bisects
angled cut and engages both sections of gunwale. Insert screw and snug tight. If concealment of screw head is desired, make angle of screw shallower to prevent screw from protruding from opposite side of gunwale and countersink head of screw.
Once glue has set remove tape from hull.
Using marks as guides or if inwale is intact, use existing holes as guide and with 1/8” bit drill partially into splicing section to prevent splitting of section when screws are inserted. If you are repairing a fractured inwale, you will want to drill holes with countersink bit to allow screw heads to be hidden. Be careful not to drill all the way through the new gunwale.
Re-insert gunwale screws and tighten to secure new splice in place.
Scrape away any glue that stands out along the splicing seam and then sand spliced section and original rail to consistent finish. Apply Gunwale Guard and/or stain as needed to protect against moisture.

REPLACEMENT OF BOTH INWALE AND OUTWALE SECTION

If your canoe hull was damaged when the gunwale was broken the hull should be repaired before proceeding to repair the gunwale. If this is the situation you face, you should gather the hull repair materials prior to commencing any repair.
For best results, stagger or overlap the splicing sections rather than have them aligned so that the ends are equal to one another. Position one 12” or more in front of the other. If the damage is localized to one location this should be easily accomplished. If the damage occurs at more than one place, it might be best to consider a full rail replacement.
The maximum “spread” of a splicing section is 42"/107cm. Mark desired splice locations where the original gunwale is sound and intact and make sure they are not more than 42” apart on each gunwale.
Cut splicing section approximately 6" longer than section of gunwale to be replaced. Run several lengths of masking tape along side of hull under existing gunwale the full length of anticipated repair, overlapping layers of tape to protect hull from teeth of saw blade.
Center and clamp splicing sections to underside of existing gunwales to be replaced. Position clamps to inside of marks on gunwale and at ends of splicing section.
At marks, use protractor to draw a straight line across top of gunwale at a 30o angle with leading edge towards bow (see diagram below). This will keep your paddle from catching along rail at junction of splicing section and original rail.
Remove any gunwale screw that bisects your angled lines. Carefully cut both original gunwale
and splice along line. If you are working with a kerfed gunwale, you'll need to carefully cut the kerf
as well. As you get closer to the hull use a careful and light saw stroke to avoid scratching the hull
surface. Cut at other marks as well. Apply Gunwale Guard to all surfaces of the splicing sections except the angled cuts.
Remove clamps holding splices in position and back out any gunwale screws between cuts.
Damaged original gunwales should be easily dislodged. Remove one section at a time.
Test fit splice into original gunwale. It may be necessary to lightly file ends of splice to get proper fit.
Once fit is fine-tuned, apply glue to angled ends of both original gunwale and splice and put
splice in place. Clamp splice to hold position. Wipe up any glue oozing from joints. Once one joint on one gunwale is clamped, proceed to repeat process with other joint.
Repeat process for gunwale on other side of hull. Make sure both splices are firmly clamped in position.
Using 1/8" bit, drill lead hole for #8 screw through each joint, positioned so that it bisects
angled cut. Insert screw and snug tight. If concealment of screw head is desired, make angle of drilled hole shallow to prevent screw from protruding from opposite side of gunwale and countersink head of screw.
Once glue at joints has set and bisecting screws installed at each joint, refer to marks made on hull indicating screw locations. Transfer marks from hull to gunwales in pencil. Using 1/8” bit with countersink, drill holes through spliced sections at marks. If repair is positioned towards center of canoe, you will be drilling from inside of canoe towards outside. If close to ends and without sufficient room to deploy drill on inside of hull, you’ll be drilling from outside. Be careful not to drill completely through the gunwale.
Re-insert gunwale screws and tighten to secure new splices in place.
Scrape away any glue that stands up above surface at joints and then sand splices and adjoining gunwale sections to achieve consistent finish. Apply coat of Gunwale Guard and/or stain as needed to make appearance match existing gunwale.

Canoes with fine woodwork are a tradition at Mad River Canoe. The rails, seats, yokes, carry handles and thwarts on your Mad River Canoe are native Vermont straight-grained ash, chosen for its resiliency, strength and aesthetic appearance. Unlike aluminum or plastic materials, white ash will not kink upon impact and cause undue damage to the canoe hull.

Mad River Canoe has used a variety of woods for decks over the years, ranging from mahogany to butternut to walnut to beech. Most of the changes have been made to respond to sustainability of wood species. Currently, our decks are made of beech, a native American hardwood with excellent stability and durability and just as importantly, a wood that is well-managed and replenished.

Wood gunwale replacement might require more craftsmanship than working with synthetic materials but the process need not be intimidating. It is recommended that you fully review the instructions before beginning the project so that you have a sense of what to expect and can judge whether you are comfortable with all the steps involved and have the necessary tools, etc.

Most of the more complex steps occur at the ends of the canoe, from fitting the inwales (inside gunwales) to the stem of the boat and the decks. There are two alternative processes described in the instructions. One for a complete re-rail including new decks and another detailing a splicing process that allows the use of original decks.

GENERAL INFORMATION

ORDERING REPLACEMENT ASH GUNWALES

Rails can be ordered from an authorized Mad River dealer. Replacement ash rails are available for all Mad River Canoes. Due to their length, ash rails cannot be sent UPS. The best alternative s to coordinate an order for replacement gunwales with a boat delivery to your dealer.

A full set of wood rails has four pieces: two inside (inwales) and two outside (outwales) strips. The rails are not pre-bent or pre-drilled, but are flexible enough to follow the shape of the canoe by just clamping them to the hull.

It is possible to replace a single outwale or inwale or the gunwales along one side if desired. On composite canoes, the outwale has a “kerf” on the upper surface. The kerf is a small extension that will cover the top of the hull laminate. The inwale fits flush against the inside of the hull and its’ top is butted up against the edge of the kerf, concealing the hull. Inwales can be solid or slotted. Slotted rails have cutaways evenly spaced through the central third of the gunwale. They can be merely ornamental or can be used to tie in gear or be used to set the canoe up as a hunting blind. Slotted rails do cost more than solid rails. Specify what rail you need (kerfed outwale or standard or slotted inwale) and the overall length of your canoe. The gunwales will need to be longer than the length of your canoe as length is measured straight along the keel line while the gunwales take a more circuitous route from stem to stem. To re-rail a 14' or shorter canoe you will need 15' gunwales, 15' or 16' canoes will require 17' gunwales, etc.

For best results, however, it is recommended that you replace gunwales as a complete set. A better job results if all the rails are of the same age and moisture content. Older rails, especially if they have not been properly oiled, will be brittle and can break more readily than new one soaked in a penetrating finish such as Gunwale Guard.

In most cases you can use existing hardware but to ensure that possibility be careful in removing gunwale screws and the bolts holding seats, yoke, thwarts, etc. The hardware is durable stainless steel but the heads or threads can be stripped during removal.

It is an option to use non-kerfed gunwales intended for Royalex hulls on a composite hull if your dealer has such gunwales in stock. Care must be taken to sand down the exposed top edge of the hull laminate between the gunwales as this can be sharp and a bit ragged. The instructions that follow are written for the installation of kerfed gunwales but most of the steps are consistent for either gunwale style.

FOR OLDER MAD RIVER CANOE MODELS:

On older model Kevlar/Airex models with foam core, the rails were glued to the hull as well as screwed and this can make complete removal more challenging. Use caution in breaking the glue joint as damage to the hull laminate can result.

The other unique aspect of the Kevlar/Airex editions is that the inwales were kerfed. If you have a foam cored Mad River Canoe and are unsure of its’ construction, contact Mad River customer service with your serial number and we’ll help identify your canoe’s construction.

Prior to ordering gunwales, back out the screws securing the decks to the gunwales to confirm that the decks are not glued in place. If they are glued, you will need to order replacement decks as well as new gunwales. Mad River Canoe stocks decks for current canoe models and those that have been discontinued for 3 years or less. Older model decks may no longer be available and you should factor this into your plans. If you have an older model canoe and the decks are glued to the gunwales, you may want to consider the “short-splicing” process that allows you to utilize those existing decks. This process is described at the end of the following instructions.

Prior to 1985, Mad River used square sided gunwales on all canoes. In 1985, a new lighter rounded profile was introduced and all replacement gunwales are rounded. If your canoe has the square gunwales, you will need to plan to replace the decks as well as the gunwales.

In the late 1990’s Mad River switched from ¼” hardware to 3/16”. This change was made to lighten the canoes and to enable improvements such as double bolting the yokes to prevent rotation. The easiest way to tell the size of your hardware is to look at the bolt heads. The ¼” hardware had round carriage bolt heads whereas the 3/16” has a Phillips head.

Older hardware can be recycled during a re-rail. It is recommended that extra care be taken in drilling the larger holes needed to accommodate the ¼” hardware and that you drill a smaller pilot hole first.

The size change has more impact if you find out that your existing ¼” hardware cannot be re-used and has to be replaced. The only hardware available is 3/16”. You may prefer to make a complete changeover even if some of the original hardware is usable.

PRE-INSTALLATION PREPARATION

Replacement gunwales will need to be treated with Gunwale Guard or equivalent penetrating oil before installation. This is the perfect opportunity to ensure longevity with your new gunwales and the only opportunity you will have to thoroughly treat the surface of the gunwale that will be against the hull once installed. Mad River Canoe does not recommend the use of varnish to protect gunwales. Varnish is a brittle top coat protection that will be broken down as the gunwale flexs under normal use. It is not an effective protection for gunwales.

Gunwale Guard is available in a natural or dark-stained finish. If your canoe has walnut or dark stained gunwales and seats you will want to use the dark finish.

TOOLS & MATERIALS NEEDED:

Gunwale Guard of appropriate finish
Disposable or foam 1” brush
Dry rags

PROCEDURE

Support gunwales at waist height. Dip brush into Gunwale Guard and apply to gunwales from end to end.
Rotate gunwales to allow access to other sides and repeat process.
Make sure to coat the ends of the gunwales and if during installation you trim the ends, to coat the newly exposed surfaces.
Allow 5 to 10 minutes for oil to be absorbed into wood.
Wipe down gunwales with dry rag to remove excess oil.

In most cases, the original rail screws are reusable as they are stainless steel and resistant to corrosion. It is recommended that to minimize the chances of stripping the screw heads, first back them out manually with a screwdriver and then remove with reversible drill with a #2 Phillips head bit. On the average, 80 screws are required to refasten a 16' canoe. It is recommended to have a package (12) of screws available should you inadvertently strip a few. Composite hulls require 1 1/4" #8 screws to secure gunwales to hull and 2” #8 screws to secure deck to gunwales. If your canoe has a few years on it, it’s wise to acquire a dozen or two of replacement screws in case of need.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Number of gunwales needed (1-4) of proper style for job required: (2 inwales (slotted or standard) and 2 kerfed outwales required for complete re-rail). Inwales are non-kerfed; outwales should have kerf.
80 pack of #8 x 1 ¼” stainless steel screws (if existing hardware cannot be used)
Replacement decks (if proved needed)
12 #10 x 2” deck screws

All above materials are available via your local authorized Mad River Canoe Dealer.

TOOLS REQUIRED

Variable speed reversible drill
11/64” tapered drill bit
1/8”, ¼”. 3/16” straight drill bits
#8 Countersink drill bit
#P2 Philips Screwdriver bit
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
(2 or 3 spring or bar clamps
6 - 12 "C" or Welder's clamps*
20' Tape Measure
3/8" & 7/16" Wrenches
Non-permanent Marker
Sandpaper: 100, 120, 180 & 220 Grit
Saw
Flat file
Waterproof Wood Glue**
Pencil
Mild Cleanser
Rubber mallet
4 Home-made “S” Hooks***

*C-clamps with round clamp surfaces can tend to walk off the gunwale as you tighten the clamps. Take some scrap cardboard and cut into 2” squares and put squares of cardboard between clamp and gunwale to provide better grip and reduce tendency to walk.

**Waterproof wood glue is needed if you pursue the “short splicing repair process that preserves original wood decks by trimming new gunwales short of decks.

** “S” hooks can be made easily from a wire clothes hanger. Cut off about 12” of wire and bend into an S shape with each bottom curve of S large enough to fit around the gunwale to be used as an outwale. Bend the opposite curve at a slight angle to the bottom. You will use the S hooks to hold the ends of the gunwales close to the hull as you begin to clamp them at the middle. Hang the top curve over the side of the hull and put the outwale in the bottom curve.

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

Prior to removing original gunwales, the locations of the seats, yoke, thwart, etc. need to be marked on the hull before removal. The new gunwales also need to treated with a fresh coat of oil. Existing gunwales are next removed from hull with care being taken to protect original hardware upon removal. Original Decks will lift off of hull with the old gunwales. Depending on model of canoe and date of manufacture, decks may be glued to gunwales or released when screws are removed.

New gunwales are then clamped to the hull and tamped down to ensure they are properly seated. New screw locations are marked on the gunwale and countersunk holes drilled at marks. Screws are driven through hull and both inside and outside gunwales to secure gunwales starting from center of canoe and working towards one end and then the other.

Once the gunwales are in place on the hull the new or original decks are fitted into place and secured with 2” screws. Seats, yoke, thwart or carry handles are then reinstalled at original locatons and finally a coat of oil is applied for maximum protection.

STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE:

Mark location of all thwarts/yokes, seats, carry handles on hull of canoe with non-permanent marker. Trace outside of seat hangers to provide accurate reinstallation. All these fittings are hung from existing rails; removal of those rails will result in loss of position of original fittings. Also, trace the bottom edge of the gunwales on the hull from end to end and mark each screw location.
Remove all thwarts/yokes, seats, etc. from canoe. Canoe will become flexible once seats and thwarts or yokes are removed. This is not a problem. If you are concerned with maintaining shape especially if gunwale replacement may take extended period of time, make a brace from a 2 x 4 notched at same width as canoe's original beam. Label and mark ends of seats, yokes, etc. right or left to ensure proper reinstallation. Attach all hardware to each component to prevent loss.
Run tape measure around hull under existing rail. Mark center point of hull on each side of hull. These marks will serve as centering points for new rails.
Measure each new gunwale and mark center point on each piece. Note which are outwales and which are inwales and mark accordingly with pencil on gunwale (marker will bleed into wood causing discoloration). Lay new gunwales on top of old and determine which fits best on each side of canoe and label them as such.
For complete re-rail with new decks:
Starting from one end loosen and remove screws along one side of canoe. Leave other rail intact. You will be doing one side at a time. To ensure that hardware is re-usable, it is best to start with a #2 manual Phillips screwdriver (for 3/16” hardware and rail screws) and start screws loose before using variable speed drill. For short-splicing installation salvaging existing decks:
- Make sure that center mark on each inwale is aligned with center mark on hull. Clamp new inwales to old inwales to make sure they stay in place.
- Mark and trim the new inwale 3” short of end of deck at each end.
- Unclamp new inwale and move new inwale below existing inwale and clamp together.
- Remove the screws located approximately 12" from end of decks. Draw a line bisecting a screw location at a 30-degree angle across the old rail. Angle should run so that end against hull will be closest to deck.
- Making sure rails are firmly clamped to each other, pull both rails far enough away from hull to allow both to be cut with a saw. Cut both rails on line marked. Repeat procedure for opposite end.
- Unclamp new rail and set aside. Be ready to clamp the deck and connected ends of gunwales in place on hull when the outwale is removed as per following instructions.

Remove all screws securing gunwales to canoe. The screws that connect the decks to the gunwales are 2” or 2 ½” long and should be removed slowly if you are doing a complete rerail. If you are short-splicing the repair, leave these intact and clamp the remaining deck/gunwale ends assembly to the hull.
Clean the top of hull with mild cleanser, taking care not to wash off the traced line indicating bottom of gunwale.
Align new gunwales on hull, matching center line marked on hull with center line marked on each gunwale piece. Hook an “S” hook over hull at each end and put the ends of the outwale in the bottom curve. (If you are performing complete gunwale replacement: Let the uncut inwale ride up and over the ends of the canoe.) (If you are short-splicing the installation, let the cut ends of the inwales float inside the canoe.)
Starting at center clamp in place. Work towards one end aligning gunwales with top of hull and with each
other. Tamp down lightly on top of gunwales to seat them firmly on top edge of hull. Clamp as needed to maintain position.
Check to see that new gunwales are on line with line traced on hull at bottom of original gunwales. It is critical that the gunwales be fully seated on the hull, especially in the area where the sides of the hull begin to transition to the rise at the ends.
With pencil mark screw locations on inwale at center. Reference the old screw locations marked on the hull and position new screws to “split” the difference in old locations. It is preferable to drill new holes than try to re-use old holes. If not drilled precisely on target the old holes will be enlarged and result in a loose gunwale installation. Define center between older holes and mark gunwale. Move towards each end spacing marks 6” apart along the length of the rail.
Using the 11/64” tapered bit and countersink, drill holes for screws at marks at center and at next three marks in each direction. Set the countersink on drill bit by holding 1 ¼” screw against bit and aligning the countersink with the flare at the head of screw. Drill from inside of canoe towards outside, making sure that drill does not go all the way through outside of gunwale.
Insert screws into holes and tighten. Once these are secured you can release clamps at center.14. If you are short-splicing with original decks:
- With center of inwale secured, check to see that one end of the inwale fits snugly against the existing inwale attached to deck. If fit is good, cover ends of new inwale and ends of existing end pieces with glue. Slide a piece of wax paper between inwale and hull and then fit the ends together and clamp. If slightly too long, file down ends to achieve fit and glue. If there is a slight gap, mix some sawdust from sanding the rails into the glue and proceed to glue as described.
- Check to make sure the rails are seated down to marked line and proceed to drill holes at new marks and then insert and tighten screws to secure gunwales. Withdraw the wax paper before tightening screws at ends. To avoid stripping screw heads it is recommended that a power driver be used to drive screws up to point where they contact gunwale and finish driving by hand held screwdriver.
- Repeat process at other end of canoe. Return to original end and wipe up any glue that may have run down from gunwale. Check other end as well.
- Once glue has set on each joint, drill hole bisecting angle cut and secure with screw.

If you are performing a complete re-rail with new decks:
- The inwale will need to be trimmed to fit inside end of canoe. Holding the rail in place over stem of canoe, trace contour of stem of canoe onto rail so that rail will conform to hull shape.
- Make straight line at end of rail by sighting down to opposite end of canoe along keel line. Set saw just inside lines and trim off rail to form rounded end with straight side at center of canoe stem. If re-rail job will include complete replacement of inset decks, care must be taken to ensure proper fitting of the ends of the inwales. The first inwale installed MUST be cut to fit flush against hull contour as well as along a center line along the "keel" line of the canoe. The second inwale must be cut to fit against this centerline and hull contour. It is best to cut conservatively and hand shape with file or sandpaper to achieve best results. Coat all cut surfaces with Gunwale Guard. Set rail in place in hull and clamp to make sure both inwales are level.
- Check to make sure gunwale is seated on the marked line and proceed to drill holes at new marks, working from center towards ends of canoe. Remove the “S” hooks. Even though the outwales are not trimmed at this point, they can be positioned properly to allow installation of screws to secure gunwales. Repeat for opposite end of canoe.
- Tighten screws to secure gunwales. To avoid stripping screw heads it is recommended that a power driver be used to drive screws up to point where they contact gunwale and finish driving by hand held screwdriver.

Repeat steps above to install opposite rail.
Drill a ¼” hole through junction at ends of inwale to provide drainage for any trapped water when canoe is inverted.
Treat underside of decks with Gunwale Guard and allow to dry before commencing installation. Decks will be installed with the more pronounced point at end below the gunwales, not above.
Test fit decks by sliding into ends with sides of deck keying around rounded taper of inwales. Ideally, decks will fit snugly against junction of inwales at stem of canoe. If getting the deck all the way up into position in end requires hull to be spread slightly that does not create a problem.
If satisfied with fit, tape the deck in place with duct tap running from wide end of deck down center of deck and over stem.
Align the outside rails along the outside edge of the hull. Mark point on rail where deck ends. Measure distance from stem to end of deck and mark 4 evenly spaced screw locations on each side. At narrow end, it is necessary to offset the first two screws so that they do not conflict with one another.
Using 11/64" tapered bit and countersink, drill holes for deck screws at marks. Insert 1 ¼” screws in first two locations and secure. Remove countersink and drill other holes deeper and insert 2” screws in other locations and tighten. It is not necessary to glue the decks to the inwales. The screws provide adequate purchase to secure the decks in place.
Drill ¼” hole vertically through the point of the deck to provide a drain for water trapped when canoe is inverted for storage or transport.
Trim off the ends of the outwales, leaving about ¼” extension beyond end of hull. Cut outwales at a slight angle with point of junction of outwales forming the point of the “V”.
Locate the marks defining seat locations, yoke/thwart, carry handles, etc. and transfer from hull to top of gunwales with pencil.
Using appropriate bit for the hardware being used (1/4” hardware needs 5/16” bit; 3/16” hardware needs ¼” bit). Carefully drill vertical holes through gunwales. Brush a coat of Gunwale Guard on the shank of the hardware before inserting hardware into hole. This will help seal the exposed wood inside the gunwale.
If using ¼” hardware insert bolts through rail and reinstall components. Tighten lock washers and nuts until contacting bottom of component. Lightly tamp top of bolt to set bolt throat in wood and tighten fully.
If using 3/16” hardware, slide cupped finish washer onto bolt and bolt into hole. Below component, place flat washer and lock nut and start nut. Draw nut tight.
Lightly sand top and sides of gunwales with progression of sandpaper grits. Collect a handful of sawdust and set aside. Apply fresh coat of oil to top and sides of new gunwales. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes and wipe off excess.
Flip canoe over onto gunwales and mix up some glue with the saved sawdust and use mixture to fill the “V” shaped void at each end of canoe where outwales meet. This will strengthen that point and keep it from splitting if canoe is dropped on its’ end. Let dry.

Canoes with fine woodwork are a tradition at Mad River Canoe. The rails, seats and thwarts on your Mad River Canoe are native Vermont straight-grained ash, chosen for its resiliency, strength and aesthetic appearance. Unlike aluminum or plastic materials, white ash will not kink upon impact and cause undue damage to the canoe hull.

Installing wood gunwales does require a bit more craftsmanship than attaching synthetic gunwales. This makes this section a bit longer than the corresponding instructions for other types of rails. Don't let the length of this document intimidate you but it is strongly recommended that you review the instructions in their entirety before beginning the project to make sure you are comfortable with all steps.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Ordering replacement ash gunwales

Rails can be ordered from an authorized Mad River dealer. Replacement ash rails are available that will fit all Mad River Royalex canoes regardless of age. Due to their length, ash rails cannot be sent UPS. The best alternative is to coordinate an order for replacement gunwales with a boat delivery to your dealer.

A full set of rails has four pieces: two inside (inwales) and two outside (outwales) parts. The rails are not pre-bent or pre-drilled but are flexible enough to follow the shape of the canoe by just clamping them to the hull.

It is possible to replace a single outwale or inwale or the gunwales along one side if desired. Specify what rail you need (inwale or outwale). For best results, however, it is recommended that you replace a complete set of gunwales. A better job results if all the rails are of the same age and moisture content. Older rails, especially if they have not been re-oiled, will be brittle and can break more readily than new ones soaked in a penetrating finish such as Gunwale Guard.

It is necessary to order rails longer than the length of your canoe to accommodate the curvature of the hull. The length of a canoe is usually measured down the center along the keel line. That is the shortest distance between the two points. The gunwales take a more circuitous route from end to end. To re-rail a 14' or shorter canoe you will need 15' gunwales, 15' or 16' canoes will require 17' gunwales, etc.

Wood gunwales milled for Royalex canoes are flat sided and are installed flush to hull on each side with top of hull material exposed in center. Think of it like a sandwich with the gunwales as the bread and the hull the fillings.

If your dealer has in stock wood gunwales with a narrow lip at top of gunwales, these are kerfed gunwales and were originally designed for use with composite hulls. These gunwales can be used with Royalex if that kerf is removed.

Mad River ash gunwales can be used on canoes of other manufacturers. It may be necessary to make adjustments to accommodate existing deck designs.

Slotted inwales are available at additional cost.

FOR OLDER MAD RIVER CANOE MODELS:

Prior to 1985, Mad River Canoes were outfitted with square gunwales. At that time, Mad River switched to a rounded rail system for a more elegant, finished look and lighter weight. Replacement rails are available only in the rounded format. This system is very suitable for replacement of squared gunwales but may necessitate replacement of the decks as well.

Decks on Royalex canoes have been made of different materials and different woods over the years. However, Mad River has always used a “capped” deck system on Royalex boats wherein the decks are screwed to the top of the gunwales.

Replacement decks are only available in current material and current models. It is possible that those available can work with older models or it may be necessary to get creative, particularly if you need a wider deck than available. You may have to fabricate your own deck. Hardwood is the preferred material. Current Mad River Canoe decks are made of beech. In past, walnut, butternut, cherry, and mahogany have been used.

It is always good to retain original decks if you can. If beyond use, they can still serve as a template to make replacements or to confirm fit with factory decks. Mad River Canoe has been manufacturing Royalex canoes for over 35 years and during that time, changes have been made in various models, new molds have been brought into use, etc. All of these situations can result in changes to deck size such that the deck for a 1978 Explorer can vary significantly from that for a 2008 Explorer. Keeping your old decks can ease the “pain” of having to come up with a replacement if current factory parts do not fit.

Older Mad River canoes also used ¼” hardware to suspend seats, attach yokes, etc. The hardware was changed in the late 1990’s to 3/16” to allow for double bolting yokes for stability and saving weight. The easiest way to tell which size your boat has is the ¼” hardware is crowned with a carriage bolt head whereas the 3/16” is a Phillips head.

You can use your original hardware or convert your canoe to current standards. The one thing you may want to be aware of is that ¼” stainless steel hardware is not available from Mad River Canoe and if you encounter some damaged hardware, you may end up with a “mixed bag” of hardware.

NOTE: In all cases, the serial number from your canoe can be very helpful in determining the original gunwale system used on your boat and determine necessary replacement components.

PRE-INSTALLATION PREPARATION

The rails are already dipped in a penetrating oil at the factory. Additional sealing with penetrating oil such as Gunwale GuardTM before installation is recommended, especially on gunwale surface that will be installed against hull surface. Replacement rails are finished natural. If you wish to replace stained rails, it is best to stain them to match existing rails before installing them on the boat.

Mad River Canoe does NOT recommend varnishing the gunwales. Varnish is a surface coat protectant and is adversely affected by the natural flex in canoe gunwales in normal use. This creates hairline fractures in the varnish that will continue to expand and will admit moisture under the varnish top coat. This in turn leads to deterioration of the gunwale from within.

TOOLS & MATERIALS NEEDED:

Gunwale Guard of appropriate finish
Disposable or foam 1” brush
Dry rags

PROCEDURE

Support gunwales at waist height. Dip brush into Gunwale Guard and apply to gunwales from end to end.
Rotate gunwales to allow access to other sides and repeat process.
Make sure to coat the ends of the gunwales and if during installation you trim the ends, to coat the newly exposed surfaces.
Allow 5 to 10 minutes for oil to be absorbed into wood.
Wipe down gunwales with dry rag to remove excess oil.

In most cases, the original rail screws are reusable as they are stainless steel and resistant to corrosion. It is recommended that to minimize the chances of stripping the screw heads, first back them out manually with a screwdriver and then remove with reversible drill with a #2 Phillips head bit. On the average, 80 screws are required to refasten a 16' canoe. It is recommended to have a package (12) of screws available should you inadvertently strip a few. Royalex hulls require 1 1/2" #8 screws to secure gunwales to hull and 1” truss head #8 screws to secure deck to gunwales.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Gunwales of appropriate length: 1 to replace single inwale or outwale, 2 to replace gunwales along one side, 4 for complete re-rail.
Decks, either original or replacement
Gunwale Guard
80 1 ½” stainless steel screws, original or replacement (attachment of gunwale to hull)
12 1” truss head stainless steel screws, original or replacement (attachment of deck to gunwale)

All above materials are available for order via your local Authorized Mad River Canoe Dealer.

TOOLS REQUIRED

Variable speed reversible drill
Tapered 11/64" bit
1/8", 1/4", 3/16” 5/16” bits
#8 Counter sink
#P2 Philips Screwdriver bit
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
6- 12 "C" or Welder's Clamps*
2 or 3 quick action spring or bar clamps are helpful
20' Tape Measure
3/8" & 7/16" Wrenches
80, 120, 220 grit sandpaper
Palm sander is helpful
Saw
Pencil
4 Home-made “S” Hooks**
Wax pencil or similar non-permanent marker
Gunwale Guard
Gunwale Guard Stain (if appropriate)
Mild Cleanser
Rubber mallet

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

Once the gunwales are in place on the hull the new or original decks are fitted into place and secured with 1” screws. Seats, yoke, thwart or carry handles are then reinstalled at original locatons and finally a coat of oil is applied for maximum protection.

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Apply Gunwale Guard to all surfaces of new rails. This is the time to make sure that the surface of the rail that will be against the hull will be thoroughly treated with Gunwale Guard. If stained rails are desired, stain rails prior to installation for best results.
Mark location of all thwarts/yokes, seats, carry handles on hull of canoe with marker. Trace outside of seat hangers to provide accurate reinstallation. All these fittings are hung from existing
rails, removal of those rails will result in loss of position of original fittings.
Remove all thwarts/yokes, seats, decks, etc. from canoe. Canoe will become flexible once eats and thwarts or yokes are removed. This is not a problem. If you are concerned with maintaining shape especially if gunwale replacement may take extended period of time, make a brace from a 2 x 4 notched at same width as canoe's original beam and slide over top of hull. Attach all hardware to original parts so as not to lose hardware and to make re-assembly easier.
Run tape measure around hull under existing rail. Mark center point on each side of hull below gunwale. These marks will serve as centering points for new rails. Also trace line of bottom of rail on hull. These lines will help assure that the new gunwales are seated properly on the hull.
Mark rail screw locations on inside of hull just below the rail, except at ends of canoe where marks will have to be made on outside of hull.
Starting from one end loosen and remove screws along one side of canoe. Leave other rail
intact. You will be doing one side at a time.
Remove old rails from canoe.
Clean newly exposed hull surfaces with GB-60 or a good household cleaner. Be careful not to wipe off any reference marks made in steps #4 and 5.
Match new rails into pairs. Using tape measure, locate center point of one pair of new rails if replacing both or on single rail if only one new rail is being installed. Mark center point with pencil on top and side of rails. Pencil is better to use to mark gunwales as it will not bleed into the wood like a marker and is easily sanded to be removed.
Position new rails on hull by aligning center marks on new rails with mark on hull. Clamp rails
to hull at center point. Use of spring or bar clamps can be helpful at this point to temporarily
secure rails to hull. Use C-clamps to finalize positioning. Hang “S” hooks over hull at each end and place ends of rail in bottom curl.
Working towards one end, align rails even with top of hull. Clamp rail as needed, usually every 24-30". The use of cardboard squares inserted between the clamp and rail will lessen the compression of rail by the C clamps and provide easier clamping.
Lightly tamp down on top of rails with rubber mallet to seat rails flush with top of hull. Check to see that bottom of new rails are even with line traced on hull in step #4.
The inwale will need to be trimmed to fit inside end of canoe. Holding the rail in place over stem of canoe, trace contour of stem of canoe onto rail with pencil so that rail will conform to hull shape. Make straight line at end of rail by sighting down to opposite end of canoe along keel line. Set saw just inside lines and trim off rail to form rounded end with straight side at center of canoe stem. The first inwale installed MUST be cut to fit flush against hull contour as well as along a center line INLINE to the "keel" line of the canoe. The second inwale must be cut to fit against this centerline and hull contour. It is best to cut conservatively and hand shape with file or sandpaper to achieve best results. Set inwale in place at end of hull and clamp.
Once you’ve reached end of canoe, return to center point and repeat procedure to opposite end of canoe. Step away from canoe and sight along rail to make sure it runs fair. Adjust position as necessary.
To determine new screw locations, run tape measure along inside of rail and mark rail at midpoint between old screw locations marked on hull. It is recommended to drill new holes evenly
spaced between the old, as it is a hit or miss proposition to accurately drill through old holes. It is preferable to drill new holes rather than enlarge existing holes. On Royalex hulls, space screw holes at 6" intervals.
Starting at center point and working towards first one end and then the other, using drill with 11/64" TAPERED bit and countersink, drill holes as marks along the rails. Set countersink to length of screw being used (1 1/2" for Royalex hulls). Place point of bit at center of vertical side of rail and drill horizontally. Let countersink bore slightly into gunwale but be careful not to drill all the way through rail. As you approach end of canoe it will become necessary to drill rails from outside of hull when hull is not wide enough to allow drill to align properly.
Start screws in holes and run up tight with Phillips screwdriver or drill fitted with P2 bit. Be cautious not to strip screw heads. For best results run screws to just snug with drill and finish tightening by hand.
Repeat steps #9-17 on opposite rail. When fitting the ends of inwale inside stem, trace not only shape of stem of hull but also mark where other inwale will contact and cut accordingly. A close fit is desirable but not essential with capped decks as they will cover this junction. If you do achieve a tight flush fit between the inwales, it is recommended that you drill a 1/4" hole through intersection of inwales where they contact end of hull. This hole will encourage drainage of water when canoe is inverted for storage or transport.
Transfer marks on hull defining locations for carry handles, seats, yoke, thwart(s), etc. to top of gunwales with pencil.
At marks, drill 1/4" holes if using 3/16” hardware and 5/16” holes for ¼” hardware. Center the holes in the inwale and take care to drill vertically so that hardware can drop through holes and will not contact inside of hull.
For maximum protection of your new gunwales, dip mounting hardware in Gunwale Guard before inserting into gunwales. The coating of oil will help seal the newly exposed wood in the holes as the bolts pass through.
Reinstall components. It’s usually easiest to start with yoke first and work towards the ends. It is likely you’ll need to squeeze the sides of the canoe together to fit the yoke in place. This is normal as the hull tends to spread when components are removed. Tighten hardware firmly but do not over torque as it is possible to sheer off stainless steel if over tightened. When using older style ¼” hardware run up lock washer and nut on bottom until just starting to get snug and then lightly tamp the head of the carriage bolt to set the square throat below the bolt head firmly into rail. Snug up nut until lock washer is aligned flat. On 3/16” hardware, place dimpled finish washer over bolt before inserting into gunwale and secure at bottom with flat washer and locknut.
Once components are secure, place deck over end of canoe and judge fit. Ideally, the outer edge of the deck will overlap onto the outwale, concealing the top edge of the hull. Align nose of deck with tip of stem of hull and make sure the deck is oriented straight side to side. Lightly trace end of deck on top of gunwales.
Mark point centered 1/2” from point of deck and then ½” from rear end of deck on each side. Align rear marks so that screws will drive into either inwale or outwale rather than hull. Using tape measure, measure distance between screw at point of deck and the rear screws. At point halfway between the two make mark for center screw on each side. Repeat for deck at opposite end.
Drill holes at marks with tapered bit and countersink. Remove decks from gunwales and oil underside of decks as well as the exposed wood from the countersink.
Reposition decks on canoe and drive #8 x 1” Phillips head screws into gunwales below decks to secure decks.
It is recommended that you provide a way for water to drain from an inverted canoe to prolong the life of your decks. You can do this by drilling a ¼” hole vertically through nose of the deck and through the gunwales below or you can drill ¼” hole at an angle through the top of the stem of the canoe. Angle bit so that the interior end of hole will be just below the bottom edge of the inwales.
Wipe down hull and remove any reference marks remaining on hull.
Sand top and sides of gunwales and decks with 120 grit sandpaper to smooth finish and remove any pencil marks. Wipe clean and apply Gunwale Guard as described above. Remove excess and spillage from hull immediately.

The IQ Belly Cover is designed for multiple purposes.

One is to increase the heavy weather capability of your canoe by providing what amounts to an oversized deck to your boat.
The Belly Cover is equipped with bow-stays to provide an arched shape to shed water and waves.
The Belly Cover will also keep rain and sun off your gear and equipment.
It is adjustable fore and aft and is “collapsible,” allowing it to be pushed out of the way when not desired yet firmly attached to the canoe.
It can also be pulled back towards the stern paddler to provide some coverage from sun and precipitation.

Zippered design makes installation and removal quick and easy as well as providing partial access to gear protected by cover. Simply unzip zipper as far as necessary and flip cover open to get to desired equipment.

The Belly Cover comes in two parts. There is cover with boltrope sewn to one side and a second length of bolt rope to which zipper has been sewn. The boltrope is sized so that the round bead fits into the slot on the outside of the IQ Gunwale.
There is a widened slot in the gunwale just behind the deck on each gunwale to allow the boltrope to be inserted.
From bow of canoe, slide boltrope with zipper into outside channel on starboard (right) side of hull. First insert end with zipper starter and slide boltrope completely into channel.
Insert bolt rope attached to cover into outside channel on port (left) side of canoe, making sure to start with end of cover with zipper starter. Insert full length of boltrope into channel.
Mate the zipper starters and zip parts together. It is easier to make zipper slide if you do so with cover untensioned. Start with cover positioned in front of middle of canoe and zip completely.
Once cover is fully zipped, slide back onto canoe to desired position. The cover can be pushed forward or pulled back or somewhat compressed while installed if you require less coverage depending upon weather, water, or wave conditions.
To access contents, unzip zipper enough to allow access to desired gear and flip cover out of the way. Once you have obtained what you needed, rezip the cover closed.
To remove cover, gently pull cover towards the end of canoe. With stays on cover relaxed, unzip zipper. If zipper binds at stay intersection, rezip it a couple of inches and pull quickly past stay. Remove both components from channel and stow securely.

NOTE: IT IS REQUIRED THAT ALL IQ MODULES SUCH AS THE BELLY COVER BE REMOVED BEFORE CARTOPPING YOUR CANOE. Do not sit or stand on the Belly Cover and avoid placing heavy items on top as well.

NOTE: The Belly Cover should be removed for solo portaging. It can be pushed towards end of boat behind paddler but beware that it can snag on obstructions, possibly tearing the cover or upsetting the portager’s balance.

NOTE: As with any outfitting component added to a canoe, there can be increased risk of entrapment. Do not use Belly Cover to provide shade for sleeping children due to elevated risk of entrapment. Take risk into account, be prepared for it and prior practice is strongly recommended to minimize this risk.

NOTE: The Belly Cover is not designed for dedicated whitewater use. It is intended for use while tripping or touring. A capsized canoe with Belly Cover in place is in greater jeopardy of becoming caught or snagged on obstructions. It is recommended that Belly Cover be removed before running any whitewater of consequence. Use your judgment in determining your ability to safely navigate specific whitewater with Belly Cover in place.

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Canoeing 101

Aluminum Gunwale Replacement for Composite Hulls

When ordering replacement gunwales make sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

Unlike wood gunwales, aluminum gunwales require only two rails per canoe.

Replacement rivets are required for both replacement and new installations.

Black plastic caps will be needed to cover seat, carry handle, yoke and thwart mounting hardware.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

TOOLS REQUIRED

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Care and maintenance of aluminum gunwales

Aluminum Gunwale Replacement for Royalex Hulls

When ordering replacement gunwales make sure to request the correct length - order rails longer than your canoe.

You can identify the one-piece aluminum gunwales for Royalex canoes in two easy ways:

Specify your model of canoe and hull material when ordering gunwales to ensure compatibility.

Unlike wood gunwales, aluminum gunwales require only two rails per canoe.

Replacement rivets are required for both replacement and new installations.

Due to their length, aluminum gunwales cannot be shipped via UPS.

MATERIALS REQUIRED

TOOLS REQUIRED

SUMMARY PROCEDURE

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

Care and maintenance of aluminum gunwales

Canoe Design: Hull Design

Hull (Cross Section)

Shallow Vee

Flat Bottom

Shallow Arch

Hull (Side Profile)

Straight

Flared

Tucked

Tumble Home

Canoe Design: Keel Line

Slightly Rockered

Moderately Rockered

Extremely Rockered

Canoe Design: Symmetry

Symmetrical

Asymmetrical: Swede Form

Asymmetrical: Fish Form

Canoe Design: Width and Length

Beam (Width)

Narrow (33” or Less)

Medium Length (34-37”)

Wide (38” or More)

Length

Short (14' or Less)

Medium (14.5'-17')

Long (17.5')

Caring for Your PFD

Choosing a Paddle: Design

Blade

Shaft

Grip

Choosing a Paddle: Kids' Paddles

Choosing a Paddle: Material

Choosing a Paddle: Sizing

Straight Shaft Sizing

Bent Shaft Sizing

Choosing a Recreational Canoe: Journey vs. Adventure

Adventure 14 and 16

Journey 158 (15'8”) and 169 (16'9”)

Cold Cracks

Features to Consider When Choosing a Paddle

Things to consider in selecting a paddle

How to Get the Most Out of Your Test Paddle

DO YOUR HOMEWORK AND KEEP AN OPEN MIND

GETTING THE MOST OUT OF A TEST PADDLE

Installing Skid Plates: Recreational Canoes

IQ Adjustable Footbrace

IQ Adjustable Tie-Downs

IQ Center Bag / Wanigan

IQ Chameleon Camo Instructions

IQ Flotation Overbags

IQ Glovebox

IQ Lash In System

IQ Owner's Manual